Jerry
Forum Replies Created
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Gen-Turi , works easily, and can connect without drilling holes for the bungee cord, comes with double face tape on hooks to connect bungee cords to hold in place.
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Al, you may be insulted, but think about poor Jon. That glass was borrowed for the picture from his Liberty.
Couldn’t resist,
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Tom, how close are they to all the rest ? What are the differences in the sites ?
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Dean,
I had to replace my Aqua Hot because a leak in the coils. The damage was $96000 for a rebuilt and upgraded unit installed.
John
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we had ours replaced in nov. 2009 due to noise (60k miles +-), then had new one fail in summer 2010 on way to florida. So one never knows when a failure can occur.
The third one seems to be doing ok.
Good luck,
Chris
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There is a link on the home page, top right side.
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Windshield swap in an XL is easy enough that someone with zero experience (me), along with guidance from someone who had been through it before, managed to do it successfully in an hour or so while entertaining the spectators in OKC.
In fact, it just might have been the least problematic, and least expensive, repair on our Liberty!
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Mine is labelled 128 ounces of refrigerant and 13 ounces of oil.
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flloyd,
Back a way’s on this Pneumatic forum dated …3/7/13…Air leak repairs. Those 63 posts might be of interest to finding some of the air leaks you might have.
I tried to find one leak and went a little nuts going after the whole system. By the time I fixed everything and spent about
$10000 I have reduced my Aux compressor running once every 7 days when parked in the bus barn.
IMHO the “mother” of all Aux leaks is the check valve mounted on the Aux compressor. As a maintenance item this valve should be changed out every 2 years.
My most costly fix was the air toilet valve and related parts costing around $5000
I hope this may be some help to you in getting a handle on the Aux system . As another Marathon owner, if I can help you just let me know.
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We have been down this oil analysis road many times before. There are a couple of company’s out there preaching this however as Jon suggests, what you look for is a trend. Need to have a baseline to make the test valid. There are a number of things that can skew the results as well, run the analysis on oil that say has 5 hours on it since oil change, results not valid, even if it has sat in the engine for a year or more. There are more.
The private labs want the analysis to begin with a new engine and there are specific rules for collecting a valid sample, not at the beginning, not at the end of the drain. When an engine is brand new it will make some metal as it runs in, then it stabilizes. What a regular analysis will due is to show what kinds of metal are in the oil; thats half the equation. Is it an oil pump, a bearing, a ring…………….
For years we have cut the oil filters, removed the outer case and then using a sheet rock knife cut the element away from the metal…stretch it out over a garbage can and wait 12 hours then hold the thing up to the sun and look for metal…cheap and efficient…..a magnet helps you identify any findings.
Remember a certain amount of dissolved metal is considered normal as bearing and other parts wear, big chunks of steel or brass indicate things far more serious……
Now for tires, the date code is when they were made, not installed. Michelin makes the 315’s in Spain and it is common to have a tire installed that may already be two years old. I have a close friend, a tire dealer, who goes to all of the schools and training and it is the date of installation when the clock starts…….not the date of manufacture. Even then it depends on how well the tire was maintained, a one year old tire could be shot if operated under inflated and allowed to sit unprotected in the sun, while a tire that is eight years since manufacture, properly maintained could be just fine.
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Thanks Andre, I’m hoping it was the fact that it hadn’t been cycled in a while. I have started ,stopped and restarted a few times. Gonna let it sit for a few days and try it again
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Joe, now knowing the buss bar wasn’t supporting the coache’s DC loads, you didn’t really need to fear too much. Glad to hear you easily resolved the problem and you moved the remotes up to where they can do you some good.
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I called them yesterday and they have a different rubber material that will tolerate heat beter so I ordered one from them,it was less than $17.
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Well, the buyer is picking up my current coach on Thursday next week. My wife is flying out on Tuesday to look at the Prevost we want to buy. If all goes well and she likes it, we are going to have it delivered to Nashville in mid to late september so we can attend the POG rally there.
I really appreciate all the info on this site. I’ve been reading every thread for the last month. Your input has really helped. We’ve already negotiated our deal on an ’05 XLII.
I’ve decided to pay to have a full chassis inspection done at the Prevost facility as a condition of the sale including the skin for any de-lam. We are also having new rubber put on, all new batteries, complete diesel service including replacing all the belts and hoses, fluids and filters, new air bags and valves all the way around and the generator and aqua hot will also be serviced as well as a complete PDI. The tech will stay with us in Nashville for 2 days to make sure that I am familiar with all the systems. It has silver leaf and crestron systems also.
I would appreciate if anyone had any other maintenance items that I should have serviced or checked before we pick it up. It’s an 8 year old coach with 60K miles, one owner, stored in climate control since new and full maintenance records. I told the dealer that I wanted to zero out the coach……make sure all maintenance is done so I will have a clean slate to start with. I know I could probably wait on the air bags but while it is at the service center it is just easier for me to get everything done before I get the coach since there are no service facilities close to where we live.
Again, thanks all, hope to see some of you at the rally.
Jim