Forum Replies Created

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  • Jerry

    Member
    June 29, 2013 at 11:15 am in reply to: Side panel delamination on XLII models

    My delamination has been through the Prevost process at DFW. Total hours 210. In on 6/03 out 6/25. They have delivered it to paint. Prevost has been very good at sharing updates on progress, always keeping it connected electrically, and standing good on their word of covering the coach side of the cost. Paint is on me.

  • Jerry

    Member
    June 28, 2013 at 5:39 pm in reply to: EGR Fix

    I bought the ugly one.

    I am going to be doing this at the perfect time. I reset my oil change reminder every 5000 miles along with my mileage so for the 14 months I owned the coach my 5000 mile fuel economy has been 5.9 MPG. I compare that to the fuel purchases and track generator hours so I have a good handle on what is happening over broad mileage ranges.

    So having just done a routine 5000 mile service the device is going to be installed and everything reset to zero again.

    I always drive at 1500 RPM, I tow the H2 Hummer, and I always have the OTR air on. So I will quickly know if this does provide the fuel savings claimed, but after 5000 miles I have enough tanks of fuel so I can cross check what the information display reports.

    But after that I think there will be some reprogramming of DDEC in my future as well, but that is a long range plan that I will not go into detail reporting unless I am given permission.

  • Jerry

    Member
    June 27, 2013 at 8:36 am in reply to: CC bus air

    Rodger,

    The harsh reality is I bet even newer coaches are lacking detailed schematics. Many manufacturers and I’m not just saying converters feel their schematics are proprietary and they really are. Due to that fact, some decide they want to fully protect their designs and future service revenue, so they keep them away from owners. This is a place where Prevost gets a big pat on the back as they make all of their schematics available online.

    In fact, I just referenced Prevost schematics the other night. I wanted to replace all relays associated with the engine fan circuit and discovered 2 different types installed and they had 2 different amp ratings. The schematice showed all to be the same type and that the circuit breakers was 6A. The correct ones should have the diode. Two had the diode and were rated at 30/40A, one didn’t have the diode and was rated at 20A, and the new ones from Prevost were rated at 40A and had a resistor instead of a diode. The ones that are most widely used are 30/40A relays with the diode. I did some research and discovered the amperage ratings labelled on the 30/40A ones was at 12V even though they are 24V relays, which seems a bit unusual. I also discovered that the current ratings on most relays of this type is different between the unenergized and energized relay contacts, again seemingly a bit weird. The bottom line is that I ordered what I know to be correct based on the schematic. FWIW, the use of a diode or resistor in a relay is for circuit protection. I assume the new ones from Prevost are resistor based because newer coaches switched to resistor based ones and that they may be just as effective as diode based ones (assumptions on my part).

  • Jerry

    Member
    June 21, 2013 at 6:02 am in reply to: OTR – Coooold

    Sorry, George. We have made out last trip to a NASCAR event. Having the plastic palace that had about 7 guys in it next to us kind of ruined it for us. We had no issue with the 55 gallon drum of beer can empties they generated daily, but when we had to deal with the frisbees and balls bouncing off our bus and toad while they played helped make the decision.

    Good news on the Cruiseair availability. Thanks.

  • Jerry

    Member
    June 17, 2013 at 9:01 am in reply to: 50 amp

    The single most frequently reported complaint with power outlets is premature tripping and in almost every instance the CG failed to re-torque the breaker screws after receiving the new boxes and prior to their initial service.

    When they are produced all connections are torqued using certified and calibrated tools, yet periodic re-torquing is required. I suspect while part of the problem might be vibrations during shipping it might also be the wire materials cold flow after the first tightening. As to temperatures we rarely see ambient temps of 140 degrees, but with the sun bearing down on a power outlet sitting beneath the noon time sun I would suspect the internal temps of the box are pretty hot. Add to that a slightly loose connection and a lower trip point seems almost a given.

  • Jerry

    Member
    June 6, 2013 at 12:57 pm in reply to: DD 60 Water Temperatures

    Yes.

    Yes.

    OK I’ll quit being cute. Our DD thermostats typically open around 195 and close at 190. If the fan is locked such as when you engage the AC that is where the temps should be cycling.

    Normal fan settings are the low speed fan is to engage at 204 and 208 for the high speed.

    I would have to look up the temp at which DDEC starts removing power and at what temp DDEC shuts down the engine.

    I would try to keep the coach operating in the DDEC fan speed temperature range. All us old(er) farts were used to seeing much lower temps than the coolant temps of today, but our engines perform best and are set up to run at the higher temps.

    You can go in and change the fan settings but I think the lower temps would result in loss of mileage and maybe even sooting issues.

  • Jerry

    Member
    June 1, 2013 at 8:52 pm in reply to: Cold Weather Camping

    Bill I live 2and half hours north of Denver u can park coach in side I have 50 amp power and sewer and water u then can drive your car to Denver my building is big enough for 6 or so coaches

  • Jerry

    Member
    May 29, 2013 at 11:30 am in reply to: radiator support rust issue

    Thanks everyone for the comments. As of right now, I am leaning towards removing just enough hardware that is in the way to gain access to as much of the mount as I can. Then cleaning it up as much as I can then sealing it. I think I can get the CAC off and leave the radiator in place. Will start working on it this afteernoon and will take some pictures as I go. I am not in a postion where the bus can be down for more then a few days.

  • Jerry

    Member
    May 26, 2013 at 9:14 pm in reply to: Hilton Head Island for Memorial Day

    Heck yea if i catch a gator aound my puppy it will surley disaper

  • Jerry

    Member
    May 16, 2013 at 8:30 am in reply to: Replacing Front Air Bags on XL II With IFS

    Do it your self guys, I cut mine in half comming out . Went rite back in like it was suppost to. I did remove the bottom cone going in and put it back on before standing up. I do bow to the pro on this one!!!!! Had to be a way to do it–so called trick to the trade. Book says remove plate. Could that be the cone that I’m refering to? It would come out then. Mine was bonded to old bag from age/road dirt/rust,I pulled but it would not move. It’s history to me and probably never to be revisted.

  • Jerry

    Member
    May 14, 2013 at 5:27 pm in reply to: Dash Air Help – Greensboro, NC

    Call it what you want.

  • Jerry

    Member
    May 13, 2013 at 9:15 pm in reply to: Dash Air Help – Greensboro, NC

    My vent temp is now down to 47 degrees but i am still unable to find the leak, only place left will probly be the lines that run ft to rear they look like they go down passangers side center from tire well behind bumper and there is some kind of control valve in tire bay roof on the high pressure line what the heck is it for?? My gauges are reading 30 123 and go a little lower every few days.

  • Jerry

    Member
    May 13, 2013 at 5:45 am in reply to: Baggage door lock light stays on all the time?

    I just went through the process of trying to find why my baggage door lock light was on (to no avail). All mine were the same terminals but I verified they were the same by using my electric tester to verify the circuit opened and close upon lock actuation.

    Sorry I cannot tell you which position is which and my coach is all buttoned up so it is not an easy check without taking a door apart again.

    They were all alike however. Who is your converter?

  • Jerry

    Member
    April 16, 2013 at 6:29 am in reply to: 3 G & 4G booster

    Bill

    I am not a computer or cell phone expert, but I have been using MiFi by Verizon for a couple of years and I have never lacked a signal or the ability to get on the internet. My guess is if the MiFi can always have a signal I wouldn’t need to boost it.

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