gary
Forum Replies Created
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Vita and I have made our reservations with Bella Terra for Michael & Vita’s Excellent Oysterfest Adventure 2013! Don’t miss it – get yours today!
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The only decent one I have stayed in is in Fort McDowell, just northeast of Scottsdale. Eagle View is the name. The rest are just barely adequate. I did just come from Camp Verde and there is a nice one there, Distant Drums.
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Thanks Hittman,
That information looks perfect. We are on the road now but will use your procedure and report the results. I checked terminal stud 68 in the FJB and that looked fine. I may start the diagnosis at the gauge because access is easier.
BTW, our coach is a 1998 Royale, 1997 45′ chassis, VIN V1026170.
Thanks,
Ed Roelle
Grand Blanc, MI
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Sammy,
Below are the photos. You can tell I am not a professional photographer, but they should help you in knowing hopw to lock the radiator fan.
In the photo above you can see 4 zinc plated bolts. You may have two or four, but those are to be taken from the end of the shaft and used to lock the fan to the clutch housing.
That’s a lousy photo but if you look real close in the center you will see a tab with two holes in it. You may only have one hole in the tab on your fan. The tab is kind of ghost like in this photo but it is there. Rotate the fan and or pulley until the holes in the tab and the holes in the clutch housing line up, insert the screws and the fan is now locked. The tabs on the fan are 180 degrees apart.
With the fan locked you should see the engine temps cycle around 190 to 195. Drive up steep hills, do hard acceleration, pull a load. If the temps stay within that range it is unlikely the thermostat, radiator or water pump are bad and the probably cause is the fan clutch is not getting energized via DDEC, or the connections are bad or the clutch needs to be replaced or rebuilt.
You will want to unlock the fan and correct the problem because the cost of fuel at today’s prices can be $50 more per 1000 miles because the fan takes a lot of horsepower and the clutch disengages it every time it is not needed.
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An H model will not fit in the garage. Besides we like stainless.
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WooHoo!!!! After doing the work this past weekend the bus still has 110 pounds showing on the both guages and has not been started since Sunday!! Now if I can get the Aux system to stay up that long I will be in good shape!
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In that year model, the HWH module should be in bay 1 on the driver’s side mounted to the ceiling. The leveling sensor that plugs in to the module should be dead center of the ceiling in bay 1 or bay 2.
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You got me!!!!LOL
Robert
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That is the correct way Jim, click upload to pick out a picture on your computer or if you want to post a URL, just enter the address or cut and paste like Jon said.
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The guys at the glass shop like to lay a v-shaped bead of sikaflex when gluing in windshields. They take the tube and cut a deep v-notch in the tip. When they lay on the bead the v-notch makes a sharp knife edge of Sikaflex at the top of the bead. When the window is positioned, the top of the knife-edge bead makes the first contact. The installer said that by doing this the bead is sure to squeeze out uniformily and prevent the creation of air pockets in the bead that may let water in. Also, I’ve found that rubbing alcohol makes cleaning up urethane products like Sikaflex easy work, of course, only if the urethane hasn’t yet cured.
David Brady
’02 Wanderlodge, LXi
Series 60
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Ronald, Will the two of you be at the Riverbend rally this weekend? Looking forward to seeing your coach, Gary
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This is much better….
DKO
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No problems here with my iPad 2, works as fast as my laptop does on here!
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We are trying to get Mark to say what he really thinks.
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Yes… that really is nice !!!