[Rodger]

Tom, I would get a window installer, check the others while you are at it. You were close to our house in Southport when in Mrytle Beach, Will be back in V.A. In April give me a call sometimes Floyd V.A.

[Archived]

Tom,

Not uncommon. The window was (is) installed with Sikaflex. Not a difficult repair. Cut out the existing Sikaflex with a sharp utility knife. Use the proper type Sikaflex (from Prevost), applying a bead to the inside window frame, and then filling the void between the glass and the perimeter gap. I found heating it slightly makes it flow easier. (I put it in warm water)

[JIM]

Gary,

I like the Southport/Wilmington area. Went to Fort Caswell several times as a teenager, just a FEW years ago!!!!!! HA! We hope to get back to the Outer Banks soon as well.

Jon,

Thanks for the advice about warming up. I have ordered the Sikaflex and primer from Prevost. Since this is not uncommon, how do I check the other windows??? What should I look for??? I have looked at the install instructions in the service manual and it does not look too difficult.

Thanks for the help!!!!!!

[Ken]

TIPS:

You will need several hours of uninterupted time.

Have on hand shims to center the glass in the frame on installation.

A glass mans suction handle makes the job of removal and insertion easier.

Cut the caulk around the glass, inside and outside, completely to remove the old glass.

To cut out the old glass (the outside cut) make an flexible knife out of a good quality hack saw blade, grind the teeth off for about 1 1/2 inch and sharpen, wrap the remainder with tape for a handle. this gives a flexible tip blade to cut the old caulk between the frame and the glass around the frame perimiter.

The best utility knife for the job, (cuttung around the inside perimiter) one that is sharp, is the industrial type with the break off tips.

Be sure to remove all old caulk from the frame and glass.

Line the perimiter of the frame with painters tape. (inside as well as out) This will produce a straight and clean line after the caulk is tooled and the tape is removed.

For the best job be sure to let the coach sit for 24 hours for a complete cure of the caulk.

Have some other window in the coach open during the cure period so as to not blow out /loosen the freshly installed window when the door is closed.

The job on an XL drivers window (one glass) requires slightly more than one tube of sika-flex.

THE SKILL LEVEL REQUIREMENTS:

Cutting out the glass without damaging the paint around the frame.

Installing the correct amount of caulk around the frame, before the glass is inserted, to have enough to fill the void and tool and not to have too much to be excessive and sloppy.

JIM

[Archived]

Jim sure nailed it. Apparently he is among those of us who may have held their windows in with duct tape until we could get home and reinstall the window glass.

As to checking others, just press on them a little. If they ain’t broke, don’t fix em.

BTW that Sikaflex is nasty stuff to get off so I used a lot of masking tape and wore surgeons gloves because it is so easy to get that stuff in places it does not belong.

[Dale]

WOW!!! You guys are the best! I will print this thread out before I start. I should have the sikaflex and primer from Prevost today. Jon, the pressure was too great for duct tape on mine, I had to open the toll window and put a bungie cord around it!!

Thanks again,

[Archived]

Well I have the window out and everything all cleaned up and ready to install. I found the reason it came loose. Apparently there has been some work done on the windshield post and this window as removed as part of that work. Whoever installed it put about 1/4 enough Sikaflex. There were places that the bead behind the window was less than 1/16 of an inch and there was none on the glass edges. They had then put a small bead around the outside edge of the glass. I had rather put too much and clean it up that not have enough. I will start the install in the morning.

The sharpened hack saw blade was a great tool for the clean up of the old sealant.

Thanks again for all the help and info.

[Archived]

As you have noted, filling the void is necessary for a good job. The sealant serves a double purpose in my opinion anyway.

The glass over time tends to fog due to moisture infiltration. The sealant around the edge helps to prevent this leakage.

Glad everything went well, add one more to the fine craftsman in our society.

JIM

[gary]

The guys at the glass shop like to lay a v-shaped bead of sikaflex when gluing in windshields. They take the tube and cut a deep v-notch in the tip. When they lay on the bead the v-notch makes a sharp knife edge of Sikaflex at the top of the bead. When the window is positioned, the top of the knife-edge bead makes the first contact. The installer said that by doing this the bead is sure to squeeze out uniformily and prevent the creation of air pockets in the bead that may let water in. Also, I’ve found that rubbing alcohol makes cleaning up urethane products like Sikaflex easy work, of course, only if the urethane hasn’t yet cured.

David Brady

’02 Wanderlodge, LXi

Series 60

[Archived]

I had the pleasure of removing a bunch of Sikaflex on a CC slide awhile back and that stuff is a nightmare to get off. I did learn that you better put it on correct because removing it after it’s cured is tough.

[Ronald]

Got the window in Saturday!!! I put what I thought was way too much Sikaflex to be sure to get enough and still had to fill in a little on the outside. The inside filled in just right. Thanks again for all the help!