Ken
Forum Replies Created
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If the problem re-occurs before deciding the best course of action have a code reader analyze what is going on. As was mentioned in my post and the previous one damp weather can be the issue and that probably is a situation that might be ignored.
If a sensor needs to be adjusted that’s a tap with the hammer and the repair is made. If it is a bad sensor an Ohm meter will confirm that. Don’t rule out a bad connector or pinched wire. Inspect the cheap stuff first.
However, if it relates to differential installed sensors then you have to decide if you wish to go to the expense and effort Al has gone to. The repair he discussed is expensive but likely the best. If you are handy it is something you can do yourself if you have some basic tools and chassis supports.
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COME TO FLORIDA and eliminate the whole problem. Ice only in our drinks here.
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Might check Prevost. Had my fluid changed over last year at Prevost Fort Worth (at 63,000 miles on my 1991 XL) and they used 27 quarts (TransSynd) @$10.52 a quart.
Total for labor, (1.3 hours-$141.70) filter ($51.46) and fluid ($2844) was $477.20 Total. Kinda makes it not worthwhile to climb under that puppy.
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G-man – I have enough electrical stuff in my walk in closet to run a space shuttle and like you, I have removed a bunch of AV cables and junk from previous updates over the years. It does get hot back there, but mine has the bedroom A/C ducted in the closet for cooling and there is a snap disc controlling an exhaust fan near the TV. I have been in the Node boxes and checked fuses as you suggested.
Bernie- I feel your pain, we have to really monitor the data useage with Verizon and I end up bumping 12 gig if not careful. We don’t do any movies or streaming and it still eats up our data with just internet and e-mails. We turn off the wi-fi on all the apple devices if not needed and still rack up the data. I’ve bitched at Verizon about the usage and they just blow you off telling you you’re watching too many movies.
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Charles,
If you have trouble finding 12 coils/valves, let me know, I think I have one if your still at home.
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George,
Thanks and I think you’re right about being in the right place. So we have thought about all of those things, We’re not sure about who does the conversion but friends have reccomended the Marathon? Definitely we require two slides! Not really sure about the the H3, XL, XL2. To early to really know all those specifics. We’re thinkng 2001, maybe Marathon. Price range is most likely somewhere in the $250K region.
Feel Free to say whatever you please, we’re there, it’s now just about finding the right rig, George
We’re from Montana and have some toys that are important to us, we’re flyfisherman and Paddle Boarders, so there’s boards, drift boat and a car, so it also seems a trailer will fit behind this rig.
Jeff
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as coaches become more complex with automatic systems, they also become more expensive when they become 10 years or older. The chassis is built with maybe a easy 20 year life span. The house computer systems become out dated and no longer supported, therefore creating major expense for the owner in the 15 +- year range.
Therefore if someone is looking for a 10 to 14 year old coach they could be potentially into a big system update exposure depending on the complexity of the hous systems.
It almost looks to me like when you get into the year 2000 you start getting more complex house systems which a potential buyer better take into serious consideration when valuing the coach purchase price .
I’m with Davy on the complex systems, less is more for me, but it seems 2000 and newer have more automation than pre 2000.
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I disagree, obvioulsy adding adhesive works in limited cases. Mark I think you said you had water leaks on your coach right?
If your bays are dry, no sign of water anywhere and you can not lift the panel back more than a few mills using some serious force; then making sure the edges are tight and sealed with Bostik 70 03 is completely reasonable.
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I think the change in cooling system design when the Volvo engines went in had more to do with the lower RPM that the engine runs at to get it’s best economy. Instead of running at say 1700 to do 70 MPH, it likely now does it at about 1400 to 1500 max. That cuts down how fast the fan runs, hence the changes to the cooling system design. I don’t remember who told me..maybe Bill Jensen, or someone at Nashville.
We routinely ran at 1400 at 65 MPH with out Cats. That was about the sweet spot in the fuel curve….
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Hey I live there part time. You entertainer drivers need us as well!!!
Nothing like driving a real bus H3
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in every RV I’ve seen, the ceiling mirror has always been acrylic mirror sheet for weight and safety. Much of the mirror on the walls in many RVs is also acrylic. Again for safety, weight and cost. Beveled glass mirror is more expensive, but is also susceptible to edge delamination. Edge discoloration ( delamination of the silver from the glass) is mostly caused by moisture, but can be prevented by spraying the edges with clear lacquer prior to installation to seal the edges of the bond between the glass and backing. This is a simple easy step to assure a quality long lasting job, but is frequently omitted
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All,
I appreciate the through responses to the above question.
Thanks,
Reese
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I agree with no elbow at the top.
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We use our Fisher Paykel a lot!! We think it works great, and is fairly quiet also. I wouldn’t want to be without one. When we were at Liberty Coach in April, they told me they were not putting them in unless requested as “most” users did not use it. I guess we are the exception as we use ours almost everytime we use the bus…
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Jon, it is a Headhunter. I never leave the water pump on when we are not in the bus. When it is parked, with everything off, after 24-48 hrs, the water will be gone and I get a smell coming out, I can pressurize, flush, water comes back to correct level, it will be good for 1 to 2 days again. When staying in the bus, the toilet is used enough there is always water in it.
How would water backflow thru the jet, the solenoid valve is normally closed.