Jim
Forum Replies Created
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That sounds like another great addition to the site.
Thank you for all the hard work!
Chris
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I had this problem a few months ago. The problem was fixed when we re-set the breaker at the end of the power line coming out of the inverter and into the solenoid. Between the two there is a breaker and mine is labled DC Solenoid.
It is a very different type of breaker. This is a picture of it. When it is tripped, under the red button a stem or breaker arm will stick down. You have to push it back in and re-set it. I have one for the DC side coming out of the inverter and into the DC Solenoid.
If you look at this picutre you can sort of see the arm flush with surface. It will stick straight down when tripped.
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In field camp ground inside the speedway, they have 50 amps & water last time I was there
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When you have Gen-Set service one might assume they checked the belt….don’t….found out the hard way also. Now I insist that it gets checked and depending on the difficulty in doing so….replaced…cheap insurance.
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I would certainly use it for the reasons mentioned. It might be a life and $$ saver if a breakdown occurred and it was your only source.
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Sid, Marathon will help you right out! I just got a notice that they have a few 2015 Hs that have a working washer!
Love to spend some of that cattle money!
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Greg, our next pics as we finish up will show that we lost very little storage space and we can access it all fairly easily. It was also necessary to move the Bose bass unit 90deg and move an electrical junction box. The whole thing will end up taking about 5 hrs of work and running for stuff and maybe another 2 hrs of backyard engineering. Geo.
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This is Nancy – I would never want slides, I love my non slide Marathon.
See, you weenies are all wrong and that slide rumer started with Mr. Anal and then Jeff Row Row your boat threw gas on it. It’s all a fabrication, would I lie?
Is there any way you can bag that stuff you are spreading and ship it to me. That will really make my tomatoes grow.
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Both previous posts are right on.
While the batteries are out take apart the cables at the chassis ground stud, clean up the corrosion and put all the cables on it back together. Consider using battery terminal protectant on the ground stud when it is all together to minimize future corrosion.
A high percentage of the phone calls I have received were because someone couldn’t start the coach after replacing batteries so when you put everything back together check, double check, and then check again.
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ABout 15 years ago I helped a friend with a 48 foot Ocean Alexander yacht wrestle the old batteries out and the new batteries into the engine compartment (?) of his boat. Are the batteries in our buses the same as what would have been in a yacht like my friends?
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Charles, I horsed my 165 pound batteries in and out myself. I used anything I could to minimize or avoid lifting. I made a ramp to slide them in and out of my Gator. I now have a motorcycle lift and that will be how I get them in and out when I change them again. I think someone that is very strong can lift them into position, but that is a risk I am not going to take.
The key to a successful changeout is not the physical effort to do the swap, but to prevent sparks when moving the cables. On your vintage coach you have an air hookup point and a regulator only accessible with the batteries out. When the are out check that pneumatic assembly for leaks and repair or replace before putting in the batteries. I believe the air to the retarder, belt tensioner and maybe something else is what that pneumatic assembly is for.
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You could just energize the + terminal on the plug for the main circulation pump and that would move coolant through the system.
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Red, You may be getting a little frustrated now, but from all you have posted I don’t think you have electrical problems to the extent it may seem to you.
First, your batteries needed replacement. Not unusual and certainly not a failure of the coach. The lesson is they were likely failing for some time and you might have been unaware of their inability to hold a charge or that they were showing some other signs of needing replacement.
Until the alternator output is confirmed (and it sounds like it is OK) that seems to be working as it should. You can stick a meter on the output and measure the voltage and within a few seconds verify it is working or not.
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George, is it the one at Phil Cooper ? Geo
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all is well and it looks like I need a new monitor. Many many thanks to Jeff who offered to and then stopped by last night to check the coach for us. And, answered a bunch of my other dumb questions. It was a pleasure to meet him and I am sure we will be using some of his services in the future. Many thanks Jeff!!
So it looks like I’ll be buying a monitor and a multi-meter and I’ve learned one more thing about these complicated machines. I continue to be in awe of all of the knowledge held by the members on this site as well as guys like Jeff. Many thanks for all the good advice.
Paul