[Jim]

My cost was to get bus up to top shape I drive about 50,000 miles a year it is about 1.61 a mile to be in top shape I go to many miles to have problems , I think you could do it for about 10,000 a year sorry if I scared any body that was what I spent , I think about 20,000 a year for me would keep it in good shape once it was in top shape sorry guys that was putting just about everthing new in on the bus

[Jim]

Jon I think you know that Im not a proud guy and will probably take whats offered. In other words whatever works LOL

[Jim]

I won’t trust it either, but a Marathon cannot have a crappy broken wind thingy.

[Jim]

Ditto on the portable in the outside bay……..I do most of my cooking on the grille outside so I set up the induction and I have a complete kitchen out there now….

[Jim]

Tom

I am going to be at Prevost Nashville on the 25th so if they get me done by the weekend I will run over. I have to be back to Lebanon TN for meetings on Monday but it would be a nice break. Maybe you could bring batteries along with you and we could have a battery installation party I will bring the beer and brats.

[Jim]

These comments don;t directly address your issues, but when I’m in an RV parks, both tanks (or, in my present situation, my tank singular) are left open. I’ve had no issues with clogging/dirty tanks but I do use chemicals and slosh my tank thoroughly as I drive down the road.

[Jim]

Some of the holding tank chemicals designed to control odors are actually going to kill bacteria and if the RV park has a septic system the chemicals may damage their bacteria. Bacteria in a sewer system and treatment plant are necessary, and some locales such as NYC use bacteria to digest waste (such as grease) that would create blockages.

[Jim]

I once removed the steer axle shocks on my old bus and drove around the block. I wouldn’t advise anyone to do this but what an eye opener! I learned very quickly what failed shocks feel like on a bus. Besides having trouble staying in my seat I also gained an appreciation for the tire oscillations that occur. This happens at around 10Hz and is actually the tire sidewall resonating. Modern day shocks are true marvels. If you feel anything like a 10Hz vibration coming through the floor it’s time for new shocks! 🙂

[Jim]

David, That was the report I had previously posted. It certainly shows the structural integrity of our chassis and how well the engineers have done in the design.

So when they put a limit on towing, it really makes one sit up and pay attention.

[Jim]

So being fairly new to Prevost (owner for one year) I had trouble finding the control box that being said I knew the condensers were in the spare tire area behind the bumper so I started from that end and worked backwards. I found A/C voltage getting to the junction box before the control boxes but not at the control box after opening the junction box I found some rather burned wires causing the problem just to check for damage I temporarily put the wires together and checked operation everything else checks ok at this point the previous owner had just had this particular unit replaced shortly before my purchase and it appears to have been a bad connection that was made. The proper repairs will be made shortly and we will be in the cool in no time already 94 degrees here in Florida.

Thanks for the help Karl

[Jim]

BTW,

Do not trust this guy. Replacing a hub seal is a fairly easy and straight forward process and it generally takes about 2 hours. But no matter how well a mechanic does the job, if he does not insure the bearings are being lubed it indicates he really has no business doing that kind of work.

I really hope the company that did the work has deep pockets for your sake.

[Jim]

30 micron..part 2020PM-OR

[Jim]

Must be so exciting….delivery is now right around the corner you know…..

[Jim]

Thanks Jerry, but it’s not the camera, it’s a light that opens up when in reverse. I tried it last night backing into my barn and did a great job of lighting up the a rear. The camera on mine is fixed below the door.

[Jim]

Keeping up with damage to the finish is a never ending saga, and it doesn’t matter if it is the stainless or the painted finish. As you experience road salt you can see stains that look like rust, you can see water spots, you will get occasional grease from the road, especially on the rear doors, sap from trees, etc. I have found for stainless that my best course of action is to clean it immediately or at least as soon as possible, and I dry it before the water drops evaporate. I think the rubbing with a towel while drying it is the best solution to prevent spotting for me. If the sun is out I wash the coach and dry it in sections. I do not use de-ionized or softened water although some advocate its use. I recently had my coach washed with de-ionized water at a rally and the guy who did it without my knowledge insisted the water spots I saw afterwards was from the prior washing. I believe he was wrong because he was the first person ever to wash my coach because I have always washed my coaches myself and I know the coach left my garage without spots.

I do not wax my stainless or use any special cleaners on it. I have found that after my coach has been dried if I see marks on the stainless such as the occasional streak from morning dew running down the sides that a polishing rag that has been heavily used to polish metals (we Liberty owners have a lot of copper to polish) works very well to remove those streaks. It might be such that you could try some metal polish to remove spots or streaks. I have been reluctant to start doing that because once you get started you realize just how much stainless there is on an XLII and how difficult it is to apply and remove metal polish. If you do want to try that, use the back doors for a test because they are a relatively small area.