Jerry
Forum Replies Created
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Couple things. The NEMA plug is rated for 50amps but the wire is likely 6 gauge which can handle 55amps or so. Now if using something more than 2 hours you’re only allowed to use 80% of its rating so legally you can only draw 40amps from a 50 amp plug. Good inverters will have an option to limit amperage and apply the 80% limit. My Victron does and I can switch it anytime from my phone all the way down to 11.3amps (less if I didn’t have 5000w inverters)
AC units and other inductive devices pull a ton of amps. My Dometic penguins 13.5k that came have a LRA of 52amps and the brisk 15k I’m putting in has a LRA of 64amps. This runs for a few seconds to start the compressor. Can easily trip breakers especially with other loads.
We should all have internal breakers inside the coach on the wiring so even if they have a 60amp breaker and you have a 50amp it’ll be protected at 50amps.
On my coach I have a 60amp breaker for shore on 6ga wire, a 80amp breaker for genny on 4ga wire both going into my Victron inverter rated at 100amps. I then have 4ga wire going to my breaker panel then another 4ga wire going to the 2nd breaker. My inverter is set to 50amps for shore and 80 for genny then only uses 80%. It’ll assist either to 100amps using battery power.
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Did our usual trip from our central TX home to our CO mtn home and back, roughly 2000 miles. All went well with the cooling system.
Now that I have the ScanGauge D, purchased and installed last winter, I have a digital water temp readout that I’ve never had before. On the flat areas of this trip water temp stays at around 195*f give or take a few degrees. When climbing
Themostats are stock 190*f units.
My understanding is that the clutch fan low speed is triggered to engage at 200*f, and high speed at 204*f. I don’t know at what temp(s) they are disengage?
When climbing a steep grade, and the temp reaches 204*f, there is no question the high speed has engaged because the temp immediately drops to about 190* and disengages. Its much more subtle.
I got a little better mpg this time than ever, but the wx could have made the difference.
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Another update. I was at Clearwater Motorcoach yesterday, and they agreed to try to diagnose the problem. I had already disconnected and bypassed Inverter #1, and my generator was being abused by the “auto start” feature. I had determined that the cursor for selecting a specific function on the “set generator” screen was scrolling from “off,” “auto,” “on,” and “eq,” which cause th generator to start, run for a period of time (usually less than 5 minutes) and then shut down.
The techs at Clearwater Motorcoach unplugged the remote and used a spare remote to try to control the Inverter. No luck, as the Inverter remained “stuck” on the “set generator” screen, and the buttons on the remote was inoperable.
The techs determined that the problem was within the Inverter itself, and that repair or replacement is necessary. I can feel my wallet getting lighter.
BTW, I had a very good experience at Clearwater Motorcoaches. I met the current owner of the business, and many of the employees were the same people that worked for Parliament, Coachworx, USA Luxury Coach, etc. The staff, at the direction of the owner, immediately started work on the inverter issue even though I was not there for service.
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I didnt get enough done. Ran into a few issues and learned something also
1. Microwave installed. Seems a lot better then the old one.
2. Last attempt at the dimmer switches and I just cant make it work. I had a friend come over who works for at&t and is really good at wiring and we couldn’t get the dimmers to work for the led. Suggestions welcome. I have moved on from that project as its been a 20 hour time suck.
3. Electrical box above the engine had the aluminum rivets break, having the box fall on the inner cooler piping. I was able to use heavy duty zip ties for now to get the box out of the way. I need to figure out a better solution.
4. I was able to mount my rear rotors and calipers. Rotors have surface rust from being turned, I did put a film of oil on them after the turning.
5. The rotor to go on my front axle is the same part number as the rotor the replacement rotor I purchased. It appears the casting on the rotor has changed and the lip on the rotor wont go over my abs tone ring. I will need to call and see if there is a different part #
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Actually the H’s are generally priced higher than the XL’s. Geo.
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Twist lock telephone cable receptacle. Used with this type of cable to connect the coach to a landline.
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Bill, regarding your internal heat, i would check the fan first. Basement heat is different. There is a thermostat somewhere in your bays that will call for heat if needed by opening a Solenoid valve.
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Aqua-Air Brochure. I HOPE. If it uploads
Chuck
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You can try dieselecm.com. They are in Ft Worth, TX I believe. Depending on what’s wrong, they may be able to repair it. If not, they can point you toward how to get a new ECM. You will need a trip to Detroit Diesel to program the new ECM.
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Wow, great news! Thanks Chuck
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My apologies to Ramco for misstating how their mirrors are plated. I was relaying what had been told to me by a person who I’ve always found to be knowledgeable and accurate.
I found a plating company near me in Wisconsin which will replate my mirrors when it’s time. The owner shared this with me regarding pealing chrome plating:
That comment from them does have some truth to it. Any aluminum is not as durable to elements as plated steel for example. To plate steel you dip the part in a solution and it puts a very thin coat on the part then the plating will stick to that, where-as when plating to aluminum or other metal the plating bond to the base metal. This is how all aluminum is plated. Just a piece of sand that pops up like road dust can fracture the plating and sometimes you cant even see the fracture because it can be very small, then moister gets on the bare aluminum and it corrodes almost like mold would and it delaminates from the aluminum and then peels off. Keeping the parts waxed frequently helps protect the plated surface. I hope this helps or makes sense.So it sounds like the peeling problem has two sources: off-gassing from the raw aluminum casting and minute fracturing of the plating itself. The mirrors on our coach have started to peel from the inside, behind lower portion of the glass mirror. So I’m guessing off gassing and water/moisture sitting inside the housing.I’m encouraged to hear that Ramco has come up with a new motor solution to address the mirror jiggling issues.The Ramco person who responded might want to start a hew thread to share with us a possible upgrade path to get mirrors with turn signal chevrons in the mirrors.Again my apologies to Ramco for proving false information. -
The more complex the more potential trouble. That`s why I prefer crank windows!
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Yesterday I.
Took out the entertainment center out of bay 2. Cleaned up the years of dirt on the cruise airs. Cleaned forward and rear interior air filters on cruise airs. cleaned out all debris in the bays.
Once I add r22 to the cruiseairs, I will put a tool box into my entertainment bay.
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Thanks Chuck,
I will give them a call.
Alex -
Looking in the engine bay above the diesel I do not see any access panels. From the inside, the bed is directly over the diesel. I will need to pull the rug back under the bed to see if there is anything visible there. If there is, the bed lifts up on pneumatic struts and would give ample room to work. More likely all I will see is solid plywood floor.
my DD60 has the split valve cover because of the Jake and there is enough clearance to easily get the top valve cover off. I looked at an earlier post where it was mentioned that a few used a DD shop in Florida that does it from the curb side inside the engine bay. I may just deal with this on the backside of my trip to Connecticut. I am planning to spend a few days in Florida and Tennessee on the return.
Thanks for the input
Alex