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Changing hoses & dirty Radiator internals
Posted by DON on April 9, 2023 at 9:16 pmStarted taking all the engine compartment cooling, heater, webasto hoses off today so as to install new.
Look at the inside of the radiator. Not good. I’ll be pulling it out and taking it to a local shop to have it cleaned.I get regular used coolant analysis reports done and pay attention to proper mx of the cooling system. The only not so good reports were the first couple.If I could do it over again I would have gotten on top of the coolant chemistry sooner. I waited a few yrs before I got on top of the situation. Whatever coolant was in the system from the previous owner was not good. I assume this grud/scale has been in my cooling system since before I bought it 9+ yrs ago. I don’t think my coolant mx has been worsening things.Jerry replied 3 years, 3 months ago 24 Members · 45 Replies -
45 Replies
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Great find as usual Don. In addition to letting use know how cleaning goes, please also post a photo after its done.
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No.
But in theory with a clean radiator inside and out there will be more efficient heat transfer from the coolant to the atmosphere, thus reducing the amount of time the fan clutch is working, thus increasing its life span, the gearbox life span, fan belts life span, and increasing fuel mileage.
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Don’t forget to check the hoses and connections on your Webasto also, especially if it uses the same cooling fluid as the engine. A hose slipped off one of my Webasto pumps yesterday dumping over 10 gallons of coolant and nearly over temping the engine. Cost me most of a travel day to find and fix it.
Jerry
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Don:
Please report back with any changes (good or bad) you see once back on the road after completing your cleaned coolant system.
I am due for a coolant change next year, might have to put the radiator/hose change on my to do list.
Chuck
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I am attempting to replace all the various hoses etc in the engine compartment. They’re only new once. Currently I’m is the process of tearing things apart so I can get to things.
I plan on changing the thermostats and changing from standard life coolant to OAT extended life coolant Detroit PowerCool Plus. This will require several flushes.
I have about 1K $ worth of hoses on order (so far).
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While we of course have an 8V92 engine and not a Series 60, when we replaced our radiator, thermostats and put in new OAT coolant, we saw a significant difference in temps. We rarely go over 190 unless pulling a very long and steep hill. Cool down/return to normal temp is very fast. Your results may vary. Good luck!
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The clutch fan on our DDEC3 series 60 doesn’t engage low speed until 200*f and high speed at 204*f. Thermostats open at 190*f.Besides having the Prevost dash analog water temp gauge, I have a ScanGauge D (digital) and can watch/see when the ECM engages the clutch fan. In the winter high speed rarely is signaled to engage.
I pulled it apart a little more giving me better access to a lot more fasteners and ole hoses.
I’m removing and cleaning the trans heat exchanger. There is a small atf leak that I believe is coming from the trans temp sensor.
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I’ve been doing a lot of cleaning and painting. Getting close to the day when I start putting the driver side back together. I’m waiting on one Prevost heat exchanger hose and water filter hose (Monday).
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Got the Charge Air Cooler out and will take it and have it tested for leaks/leak rate. It looks fine. Its lite enough for me to pick it up and move it.
The radiator? not so much. Its HEAVY. Not sure how I’m gonna handle it?
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Don,
Do you have access to a small tractor with a front loader? I slide it out on to the edge of the loader on a piece of plywood as a “bridge”. I used several ratchet straps to slowly (and securely) slide it out. I can send you pics if you want. You are right it is very heavy.
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Took the CAC and had it tested today. Its good.
Removed the radiator with my cherry picker/engine hoist. Loaded in the back of the Yukon and I’ll take it to be cleaned and tested tomorrow.
Had the engine compartment inspected for mice too 🙂
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