Greg
Forum Replies Created
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Marius, contact Dale Farley(administrator) on the other site..POG. He has a ’98 for a couple of years now. Geo.
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No. In fact if you are looking for your first Prevost it will help you ask the right questions of the seller and give some insight regarding things to check. It will also provide you with an opportunity to meet owners and get first hand knowledge from them regarding the lifestyle and the conversion. You will see various models and conversions and you will not have a salesman trying to push the coach he has in stock on you.
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Thanks, Joel. Now I need to find out if mine is broken, or normal for MCI.
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AL, thanks, hopefully not too many issues to resolve…just friendly advises…to tne newbies.
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this is the best I could find
Constant torque hose clamp installation
Installation recommendations:
• Fitting or tubing must be clean and free of defects.
• Hose ID should closely match fitting or tubing OD.
• Select the proper style and size clamp for the system application.
• Position the clamp over the hose perpendicular to the hose/piping assembly approximately ¼ to
½ inch from the end of the hose but not past or over the fitting/piping bead.
• Tighten the clamp slowly to the recommended installation torque. Do not over-torque.
CAUTION: Do not use clamps having a steel band with straight edges on heating/coolant
hoses. When tightened the band will cut through the tubing material, damaging the hose
and causing leakage.
Tools:
• For proper tightening use a torque wrench, ranging between 30 and 200 in.lbf with 1 in.lbf
increments. Socket sizes are 5/16 inch (8 mm) for type A clamps and 3/8 inch (10 mm) for B-
type.
Tightening torque:
• The torque for hose clamps type A is 62 ± 4.5 in.lbf (7 ± 0.5 Nm).
• Hose clamps type B torque is 79 ± 9 in.lbf (9 ± 1 Nm).
• The Belleville spring washer stack should be nearly collapsed flat as shown in 1, Figure 3.
• The screw tip of the hose clamps should clearly extend beyond the housing when properly
torqued.
NOTE: Since the constant torque clamp is self-adjusting to keep a consistent sealing pressure,
there is no need to re-torque the hose clamp on a regular basis. When the tip of the screw is
extending out of the housing and the washers are collapsed flat, the clamp is properly installed and
maintains a leak proof connection.
Proper torque installation should be checked at room temperature.
Figure 3: Constant torque hose clamp
installation
1. Properly torqued – the spring washer
stack is nearly collapsed flat and the
screw tip extends beyond the housing
2. Undone – the spring washer stack is
loose and the screw tip is retracted in
the housing
Hope it helps
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Greg
MemberFebruary 15, 2015 at 3:53 pm in reply to: Entry, step well and hand rail lights no worky?I have a Vantare on an XL platform so it is probably different. However if my “Bay Lights Defeat” button is pressed then my interior entry lights will not come on when I open the door..
Davy
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Well… here we are at Jeff’s… day 3 here for us and mountains have been moved… we have new shocks, new air filter (air dryer) Culligan RO filter make over with new faucet and filters (was disconnected by previous owner), New cell antenna on roof with amp and indoor antenna, brakes checked, 4 new 315s installed, Pressure Pro installed, new bushings rear suspension, bay door adjustments,(one flew open on freeway and lost a chair) 2 airbags already installed… rest will be done today. 365s will be here on Monday installed and hopefully we will hit the road for home.
It has been a great experience here at Jeff’s they all work so hard and Jeff meets himself at the door,never stops.. such a great service center !!
Al is here working on his “H” along with Jeff doing airbags etc… Al’s butt is all we see…he’s got his head buried in projects all over his coach… he’s like a kid in a candy store… loves making improvements… someone will have an awesome coach if and when he sells it !!! I bet it’s not his “last coach” !!
We came here from OKC after the Rally… we followed Jon and Di… spending the night at Prevost Nashville….swapped a few tales over dinner and enjoyed ourselves.
Al, Tom & Nancy were a few hours behind us.
Be sure to consider Jeff’s place for all your Prevost needs… I don’t think there is anything he can’t do.. I’m still trying to find something he doesn’t know but no luck so far !!
It will be wonderful to hit the road home knowing that all this “stuff” is done and not worrying about having a blowout or anything!!
Cheers, Diane
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G-man I just got rid of it last week. Sorry about that but if you come this way would love to buy you lunch someday.
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I wimped out and came down 95 and 64 then through the Norfolk tunnel which, oddly is 14′-6″ eastbound and 13′-6″ westbound. Except for holiday traffic to VA Beach it was a piece of cake. We will leave by bridge out towards Charleston.
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Yes, that’s the DC side of your electrical, but somewhere along the history of your bus it’s possible with radio changes they picked up the 12v power from other sources.
Jeff?
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Mike & Cathy, have you figured out the parameters of the coach you are looking for yet ? Price, year range, H or XL or XLII, slide or non-slide etc ? Based on your looking at the H Vantare at Parliament, have you seen fellow PC members Larry & Dianes Vantare that is presently for sale ? Now there’s a well maintained and kept bus. If you’re still not quite sure what you want, consider attending the PC rally-no-rally in OKC.
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1) When connected to shore power- everything works but the interior 12 volt lights.
2) When on genny power- the only thing that does not work is the 12 volts in the coach / lighting.
3) The house voltage is showing 10.5 to 11 volts on the coach dashboard gauge. So obviously this is an issue. I have been slow charging the batteries and will be back to the coach today to see where I am at on voltage. I will also check the batteries to make certain they are not low on acid.
So my question is this now:
Question A) If voltage on “house batteries” is less than 12 volts then this will throw everything off and the interior lights will not come on with genny or shore power correctly?
I did notice that even at 10.5 volts I could manually swtich the domestic house batteries on and turn on interior lights- they do come on.
Question B) I did fire up the genny and put the inverter on. Ran the genny for 2 hours thinking that should help charge the “house batteries” ? (Did no see any difference / very little on battery from 10 volts to 10.5 volts in that charging time)
I may shoot a little I-phone video today and then post a Youtube link to show additional details.
Thanks for the replies so far and input.
Tully