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Heavy duty hose clamp
Posted by Alvie on February 24, 2015 at 2:08 pmWhat is the correct amount of tension to apply to these clamps? Had several of them start weeping as weather turned colder. Tightened them a bit but problem continued. New/different style clamps needed?
Dick replied 11 years, 6 months ago 8 Members · 7 Replies -
7 Replies
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If it is on your engine, start it up and get it warmed up and retighten that is what I do
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I looked all over the internet for instructions or specs on tightening the spring type hose clamps and could find nothing except comments that they are supposed to provide constant tension.
Obviously if there is a little dripping they have loosened. If mine were dripping I would tighten them. If the spring is completely collapsed and there is no more tightening space between spring coils or washers I would replace the clamp.
If someone finds some info please post it.
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this is the best I could find
Constant torque hose clamp installation
Installation recommendations:
• Fitting or tubing must be clean and free of defects.
• Hose ID should closely match fitting or tubing OD.
• Select the proper style and size clamp for the system application.
• Position the clamp over the hose perpendicular to the hose/piping assembly approximately ¼ to
½ inch from the end of the hose but not past or over the fitting/piping bead.
• Tighten the clamp slowly to the recommended installation torque. Do not over-torque.
CAUTION: Do not use clamps having a steel band with straight edges on heating/coolant
hoses. When tightened the band will cut through the tubing material, damaging the hose
and causing leakage.
Tools:
• For proper tightening use a torque wrench, ranging between 30 and 200 in.lbf with 1 in.lbf
increments. Socket sizes are 5/16 inch (8 mm) for type A clamps and 3/8 inch (10 mm) for B-
type.
Tightening torque:
• The torque for hose clamps type A is 62 ± 4.5 in.lbf (7 ± 0.5 Nm).
• Hose clamps type B torque is 79 ± 9 in.lbf (9 ± 1 Nm).
• The Belleville spring washer stack should be nearly collapsed flat as shown in 1, Figure 3.
• The screw tip of the hose clamps should clearly extend beyond the housing when properly
torqued.
NOTE: Since the constant torque clamp is self-adjusting to keep a consistent sealing pressure,
there is no need to re-torque the hose clamp on a regular basis. When the tip of the screw is
extending out of the housing and the washers are collapsed flat, the clamp is properly installed and
maintains a leak proof connection.
Proper torque installation should be checked at room temperature.
Figure 3: Constant torque hose clamp
installation
1. Properly torqued – the spring washer
stack is nearly collapsed flat and the
screw tip extends beyond the housing
2. Undone – the spring washer stack is
loose and the screw tip is retracted in
the housing
Hope it helps
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Thanks everyone. Will try these suggestions to see if I can get the leaking to stop.
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Alvie, if it is any consolation we all have drips and leaks at connections and fittings that need to be tightened occasionally. Air, coolant, etc.
When the temps are warm we have less leakage, when the temps dip down they start to show up.
They all leak eventually.
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I know. I’m chasing some leaks right now. The only thing that would make it better is if I didn’t have to.
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