Dan
Forum Replies Created
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You’re correct Air dryers are the best, but our aux compressor doesn’t/can’t send the air thru the air dryer, so all converters do install water traps/separators downstream of the aux compressor. On my old 1996 beast, Liberty installed three different water traps at different points in the aux system. The other 2 are a Bendix Type E and a Norgren.Without them our aux system wouldn’t last a yr, let alone 20 yrs.
My suggestion to all is: 1) minimize your aux compressor use when able; and 2) to look inside your water traps/separators. You may be surprised what you find.
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Worry not. At last night’s 27 degrees you have no concerns about winterizing. The coach will be fine. If it gets cooler and for sustained long periods then you need to take steps.
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I will have a date for the proposed non-rally rally by tomorrow…
It looks like we are being directed to availability beginning between the dates of Monday May 15th or as late as the 17 th — and a planned ending Sunday the May 21st… The first week in May, the RV park is fully booked by an RV dealership. I favor a date like the arrival on the 16th or 17th and departure on the 21 st.
May 14 th is Mother’s Day with heavy reservations in front of that… and Memorial Day week end begins the 26th of the month…
I will confirm tomorrow. and we will see how this fits with everyone…
If it seems to work, I will “try” to make a run up there this coming week around Thursday or Friday and cover the details with the park and do some research for ideas….
That sounded so authoritative…. particularly since your humble servant does not know what the “details” are supposed to be….. actually, I depend on everyone to help determine what they want the “details” to be…
I’ll try to get first things first… the dates.
Pres
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Jon, if you are concerned about the inner dual tire valve stem extensions leaking, I think a company called Duallyvalve makes a dually kit for 22.5″ rims. The kit includes the valves with curved stems for the two outers and either a 7″ or 9″ long stem valve for the inners. They come in brass or copper. The stabilizer rubber grommets may be a bit oversized for the hole in our Alcoas tho. It’s a bit pricy also…
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Well, I fixed my problem with the lift in the trailer. It was not electrical at all. It was a failing pulley cluster pin that holds 4 pulleys together in a bracket connected to the Hydraulic ram. The pin was coming out, and was bent, and possibly was caused by loose cables getting out of place.
the pin on the bottom had popped off the snap ring, and let the pin creep up, and was rubbing where the black marks are, bottom 2 pulleys were just grinding away..I called AXE Equipment, Stinger lifts, and they were very helpfull. They sent me a new style pulley cluster, and all other pulleys with new bearings instead of bushings. I replaced them all, and now it works like brand new, and will pick up any car or anything.
So you guys with trailer lifts, pay attention to your cables and pulleys, even though I had to drill out about 200 rivets to get the covers off.
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Jon…where is that new iPhone 7 and iPad Pro going to be mounted? Just wondering…….
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The part number I was given was 10125719. This may be Darby’s own part number. I talked to Tyler Edwards. There was 0 problem getting it to me..The part was exactly like the one I took off..
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The electric is going to be much cheaper than what I will charge to use Jon’s John.
Especially for Fred.
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You should not have to have the engine pulled. I believe you have sufficient height above it to remove the valve cover to do the adjustments.
When coolant is replaced, flush the system and go with extended life coolant, but make sure all the hoses, including the converter installed are like new or replaced.
If you have any leaks even minor ones try to get them resolved.
Not related to the engine would be to change brake chambers, flexible brake air lines and replace push in fittings with compression. Roll the wheels with the wheels off the ground and listen very carefully for noise in the sealed steer and tag hubs. Check but don’t replace any hub seals on the drive axle unless they are leaking.
Take a very hard look at the CAC for leaks, and check the hot and cold hoses in the turbo system for condition. With EGR you are at the limit on the high side and if one fails you can barely move the coach.
I’d suggest you have them program the EGR to kick on at 3200 RPM, and off at 3400 RPM, and if they do to plug the line somewhere between the EGR heat exchanger and the intake manifold. (they won’t do it, it is illegal, but you can try)
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Thanks Mark let me look if I have one
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Put it in dumpster and install a tecma…..end your issues before they really ruin your trip…
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Thanks Bob, I got the picture. Been there several times because the air dryer is mounted there and I take the whole thing out to change the dessicant cartridge.
Will try to create my luck by soaking the fittings in pb blaster for couple days.
Prevost parts said they have so little call for these hoses that they don’t stock them, so they are special order 42 days out. But all three hoses are only about $250. And the longest one from the pump to bulkhead is 17 feet long.
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Tom…
Jeff just installed a Pressure Pro along with new rubber. After moving about a 100 miles to a campground and not moving for a few days, this morning, it is announcing two low pressure alarms. Jeff and Allen set my pressures at 90 (tag) 95 (drive) and 110 (steer) based on the weights measured on Jeff’s lifts. This morning, here at the campground two days later, the alert is showing 87 on the road-side outer drive and 87 on door-side tag.
Would it be wise to put a small amount of teflon tape on the valve stem to prevent any possible leaks? Tomorrow morning before we leave I will once again inflate those two offenders to the perscribed pressure, but I’m very uncomfortable with new-tires and new gizmos and low pressure alarms all at one time!
Would appreciate your thoughts…ty
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Jeff,
it was great to be staying at your place with a couple other hurricane refuges. Carole and I got home on Friday evening. It started raining around Asheville and did not stop. We did see the results of an overly enthusiastic plastic RV operator. He was obviously following too close and probably travelling too fast for conditions. He rear ended a Camry (best I could tell) which then was pushed forward into three other vehicles. Fortunately for us the wreck was in the westbound lanes, of course in the #1 lane, and traffic was already backed up for at least 3-4 miles if not more.
Anyway, we are safe and sound and the bus put away into its storage building. Our power failed around 10:00 AM today and remains out. Again, fortunately we have a standby generator that runs on natural gas. It does the whole house which is great. Now how am I typing this? Well our internet connection is down, as are a lot of trees, so I’m connected through my hot spot on my iPhone.
Josh did an outstanding job on repalcing the damaged panel and radio. You did a fabulous job diagonosing the generator. It now starts on the first attempt. Please give my thanks to all involved.
See ya’ll in the Spring.
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Once you have verified the parking brakes hold, are released without a continuing air loss you want to check the service brakes.
Apply the service brakes with a fair amount of pedal pressure, looking for an initial pressure drop, and with your foot remaining on the brake pedal, not the pressure stays or leaks down. Again the DOT allows 2 or 3 PSI per minute, but you do not want any leak on either system, primary or secondary. For the same reasons as with the parking brake any leak of any size can be an indicator something is leaking and it is not going to get better.
If you have a leak in the primary or secondary air systems and it gets large such as a failed brake chamber idaphragm or hose, and the air compressor is unable to maintain pressure you have an emergency situation and if you do not get to a safe stopping spot NOW your parking brakes may automatically deploy. That is why verifying the service brake system is leak free.
As an aside just for information purposes, you can inch your bus a short distance if your service brakes have a substantial leak by applying the parking brake. That will repressurize the braking systems and unless the leak is upstream from the relay valves you can then release the praking brake and air pressures will hold. As soon as you apply the service brakes the pressures will again drop. If the failure is in a relay valve or worse, a failed air tank, if you have to you can move the coach with the emergency brake applied. That is a true emergency action, but might be required to get the coach off the road and out of harms way.
With the service and parking brakes checked the next step is to verify the safety devices are functioning. Turn the key on, but do not start the coach. Fan the brakes. Somewhere between 70 and 80 PSI or thereabouts you should get a red light and an audible alarm to show air system pressures are low. Continue fanning the brakes and somewhere in the vicintiy of 40 to 45 PSI the parking brake knob should automatically deploy, applying the parking or emergency brakes. You will not be able to release the parking brakes below this pressure.
Continued on the next post