[Dan]

Pleased tell me this thread is not going to get any worse than it already is.

It has already started to stink up this entire thread and before long the entire web site may end up needing rose petals.

Pheeeew………..what have some of you folks been eating?

[Dan]

Kinda makes you kind of wonder what engineer cooked up this “glue parts to the coach” idea. Wonder if they’re still with them. Makes me glad I have rivets and what it has cost Prevost and the ones that own the coaches to go back to rivets. Of course we all know “It’s only money”

[Dan]

Dick,

Back in 1989 I attended a fly in in Florida and a seaplane base was nearby. They had it set up so that you could get your floatplane rating. They had a PA-12 on floats, FAA exaniners…the works. Seens that I spent nore hours punping leaking floats than I did in the air. One day we were able to practice cross wind docking I can say without a doubt that I really stink at that but got ny rating anyway

FFF

[Dan]

Glens,Cruise Airs were origionally designed for yachts and they were water cooled,they were later adapted to air cooled condensing units for motor coaches.I have found that freon leaks are generally the glands on the valves and the hot gas by pass valve on newer units(they are plastic).Freon charge is very sensitive and I have been told by Johnny at AAP to get the suction line as cold as possible and that will be the correct charge.The Cruise Air manual has charts for high and low pressure settings and IMHO it is useless and incorrect for maximum performance.When I charge a cruise air by getting the suction as cold as possible it generally has 17+ degrees of differential and will run a steady stream of water under the bus on a humid day.It usually takes me 30 minutes to tweak the freon charge for maximum suction temperature and I do it with an IR temperature gun wedged in pointed at the suction line with the trigger locked with a ty strap.There are other methods that others use to charge Cruise Airs but this method seems to be the easiest and has proven to me that Johnny at AAP is correct.I have also found that with just a small deviation from the lowest temperature on the suction side it will not remove the humidity from the coach and I never feel cool even when it is 70 degrees inside,so what I am trying to say is when the cruise air is properly charged it will remove the humidity and have at least 17 degrees of differential which I have found works even in 104 degrees in a field on a July day without any shade.

[Dan]

I got replacement struts from Prevost. $28 each for my H3, should be similar for you. Careful when replacing. Prop the door full open with a strong prop and/or have a strong assistant to keep the door up as you remove/replace the old strut

[Dan]

Great pics Grizz!

Mark

[Dan]

I started camping early in life by taking camping trips with friends, etc. Of course, while in the Army, I had some fantastic camping experiences, like, camping in a fox hole in Korea in sub-zero weather or the deserts in California. Those kind of experiences just endeared me more to camping!

My wife & I did the tent camping thing for several years in the Colorado mountains with friends and decided to buy a used Dolphin to “get off the ground.” When kids came along, we upgraded to a new Class-C. Never owned a Class-A/DP, Prevost, but I’m looking forward to camping once again, just maybe in a little more style, but nonetheless, camping and the joys that camping brings.

[Dan]

Even with a pit I think it might be dangerous to work beneath a coach that has an unsupported chassis. With all respect to Jeff and Prevost and others that use lifts I am not completely comfortable being under the coach when it is lifted unless the suspension is all the way down.

This is what I use………

When I do use bottle jacks I use them with the hydraulic ram down and the center screw post extended as needed. That way they can never drop unexpectedly.

There are times when they are advantageous because I can raise the chassis such as to remove a wheel and then lower it back down to safely do work such as replace a shock or air bag.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200305255_200305255

[Dan]

Joe,

Judging from the photo the hub seal has been leaking a while. Sometimes it collects in the recess in the wheel and when you stop it sometimes leaks out one of the holes. If you fill your differential I don’t think you need to worry about stopping to check temps. I am sure you are going to be OK.

If your brake shoes and drum have a lot of oil, and if the inner drive wheel is loaded with a lot of gritty, oily crud the seal has leaked for a while.

As to replacng both…………I wouldn’t. That is one case where if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

I sold two buses when they had about 250,000 miles on them. On both I replaced a couple of seals, but all the rest were original and working fine. I have no clue why some seals leak in 50 to 100 thousand miles, and others seem to go forever.

[Dan]

Thanks DKO, I am going to try that stuff!