[Dan]

Ronald,

Try this , Delete Your Short cut Icon And put a link in Your Bookmark favorites Bar. Then all You have to do is hit Safari , ” Open Favorites ” and click on ThePC on the Bar. It will cost You another click or Two , But should a reliable Link.

[Dan]

I would inspect the bottom of your door to confirm the rubber seal is in place. That is usually the area getting the most abuse.

Check seal is all the way around…. is it properly attached, at all corners. The corners are usually the problem areas.

All is good with above checks. Next, close door completely listening for double click that saddles have rotated around striker pins. In “H” series there are 2 pins, upper and lower.

Listening for double clicks have happened standing outside push on door near center left side, inwards. There should be no free play in door.

Let us know what you find with the above checks. Most often the door can be adjusted which is not to difficult.

Pre-marking of striker is key to successful adjustment. “H”series Prevost usually do not have sticker pins as XL series has. Most entry doors become stretched due to wind catching doors while opening. Door hinges are heavy, heavy duty. Over time some things need to be adjusted to compensate for rough door service.

[Dan]

I know from my experience the key to getting heat to the driver’s area is more of an issue than cooling. First you have to set the driver’s temperature to one that will give you the temps you want. My readout or setting for heat is higher than the temp I set for cool. I am sure this can be adjusted, but I am not going to make the effort. I set about 68 for cool, but to get the heat I want I set it at about 76.

If I need heat I also make sure the coach heat is on also. If it is not on the coolant does not seem to circulate to the driver’s heat exchanger. I can get heat to the rest of the coach either by making sure the coach heat control is on, or I can turn on the webasto, both of which seem to circulate the coolant so I get heat to the front. When the engine coolant is hot (at least around 160 or so) the Webasto circulating pump and the Webasto heat exchangers are working as needed but the Webasto burner is not firing because it is not needed so there is no more fuel being burned.

[Dan]

I think if I look at my existing windsheilds that the top 8-10″ has a tinting, I’m thinking that the all clear windsheild are likely for bus operators! With the promotion price from PREVOST it seems to be the way to go, I just didnt want to get them installed and find out it looks poor! I think what youre suggesting Jeff did would be a good alternative!

[Dan]

We use a Blue Ox tow bar and brake system.

[Dan]

Just for thought, check out 3M vehicle paint wraps. Did this on my top front & top rear where clearcoat as scaling. Worked out great, less down time, cheaper and has 10 year warranty.

[Dan]

Thanks bv i will look in to the koa.

[Dan]

The photo below shows how the cover has been machined to prevent it from being installed if the knobs are in any position except “OFF”.

If you look closely you can see the grooves machined into the cover’s underside. Notice also the cooktop knobs are not symetrical and the “tail” at the lower side of the knobs would prevent the cooktop cover from being installed if the knobs were 180 degrees from their shown position because the “tail” of the knob would be hit by the cover before the cover would go all the way down..

How the protection is provided is less important than the fact there is a fool proof way to prevent the cooktop from being on with the cover in place.

[Dan]

You guys need to get in the 20th century. Cooking on that Gaggenau you might as well get 2 rocks and some ruffage.

If you can find it the Indufix is a direct replacement. I paid 200 about 3 years ago, boil water in under a minute.

Later

bv

[Dan]

From Jackson to Driggs there is a pretty sever grade going over the pass. I think maybe 10% and very tight.

I have done it a couple of times but had second thoughts about half way up both times.

Would suggest you go on I80 to I84 and up through Salt Lake and take I15 to near Pocatello and to Idaho Falls.

You will make better time on the interstate but there are other more scenic ways to go.

[Dan]

In order to help you we need the year of coach and converter thanks

[Dan]

Brett, Angola was a simple and straight forward conversion wth no proprietary systems, very much like a Royale. Judging only by the pics this looks like a nice bus with a good layout. The 365 steer and tag upgrade is also a nice bonus. Randy and his guys are honest and sraight shooters. I would see how much of the history they are aware of. Then if still interested you will have to see, feel, touch and work every system. The market says that an “orphan” is not worth as much, but they are really nothing to be afraid of, especially Royale and Angola and to a certain extent a Country Coach. We had a CC and loved most everything about it with the exception of the proprietary dash and motherboard. We love our single slide H and that bus has even a better setup for the bdrm not having a bdrm slide. Geo.

[Dan]

Looks like a great time!

We’ll be in Del Ray Beach on a build, but looking forward to seeing you Boys at Clawfest!

[Dan]

Reese, At the age and mileage of the coach it is reasonable to expect it to be a no-issue coach. I would insure the skins get inspected. A check of the air system would be wise and if any moisture comes out of any tank a deeper inspection should follow. If records are available it would give you peace of mind and possibly save you money if you could confirm the coolant and Transynd have been serviced. Other than that I can’t think of anything more than a general pre-purchase inspection.

[Dan]

My slides haven’t leaked. Jimmy – I got my eye on you…