Al
Forum Replies Created
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That is interesting…I was told that multiplex did not start until the late 2007 chassis year. My 2006 chassis Legendary was a half breed as the slide controls were multiplex, but everything else was not. Does yours have the modules in front and back instead of the old style relays?
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Update – had some help from the Greg at Featherlite and he pointed out that the Vantare does not have an external transfer switch and all is done inside the inverters.
What was a puzzler was the 15-18 V Voltage drop from the cord to what the inverter remote panel was reading and the fact that shore should come in on AC1 not AC2….so he had me change the settings on the incoming amps to 15. Still had the same problem….
It dawned on me after a lot of back and forth that the 50 amp cord plug looked a bit loose and the end was not clamped properly on the wire…so I opened it up….surprise…the neutral was pulled off the first terminal, the red was barely hanging on….how I got juice in the coach for a week without sparks and errors is a mystery … must have pulled apart when we disconnected and started giving me problems once home.
Anyway, went and bought a new good quality 50 amp plug and redid all the connections as they should be.
All back to normal – incoming 20 amp shore on AC1, feeding 20 amp through a heavy gauge extension cord. Not getting hot. The inverters latch on and start charging in about 30 seconds. I turned # 2 off until #1 went into Float then turned #2 on and it went to float within 15 minutes.
I shut down all other 110v breakers except the Aux compressor and fridge.
So far so good.
I do need to locate a Voltmeter display for the electrical panel. Mine is missing all together. I opened the panel and it was removed by some PO. There are 2 white wires, a red and a blue clipped where the connections to the voltmeter used to be.
Anybody know what the part number for such a display is ? If somebody has one I can buy, it would be even better.
Picture of how my panel looks like attached.
Also could use a few of the green LEDs that show the breaker turned on…does anybody know a source for those ?
Many thanks again.
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Hey Chris, if I remember right there is a pretty mean pass to climb and decend into Breckenridge from the south.
Just looked on my maps app and couldn’t see anything but I have been in and out that way a couple of times in the truck once and the bus once.
I wouldn’t go that way again if I am right.
I know the I70 route is very easy.
It’s Hoosier Pass at 11,539 feet and very tight.
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thx Jack. That’s one.
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Dan, I had a leak like you describe, driver’s side, on a previous coach and I was able to get at it by reaching under the dash as I recall. That was about 20 years ago so my mind may be playing tricks.
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I’m buiilding a shop for the race cars and pad for the Prevost. The plumber did not bat an eye when I asked for a dump station for the motorhome. Because we have a grade beam for the slab, he was not comfortable running the sewer pipe outside the permeter of the shop. So we have the sewer pipe terminating above the slab about 6″ inside the outside wall of the shop. I can put a plug in the sewer pipe (has female thread). There will be a 6″ piece of PVC (female threads on both ends for plugs) in the shop wall that I can push the discharge hose from the motorhome through over to the sewer pipe. The sewage will then run from the shop to the basement of the house and then into the septic system.
I would not recommend discharging the black water from a motorhome into a dry well. Too highly concentrated “black stuff” to put directly into the ground. Needs to go into a septic tank first.
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FWIW, the standard safe combination for standard tumbler lock is 50-25-50-0. Any reputable locksmith will know exactly were to drill a hole. In the hole they will insert a punch and hit it very hard with a sledge hammer. This bends the locking cam away from the actual lock.
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On our 2000 Royale the aqua heat element can not be powered with the inverters. A good plan is too discover all the items that can powered by the inverters. in our Royale there are two AC breaker panels. One is for inverter power and the other is all the things that only run on shore or generater power.
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That’s great news. I’m sure you’ll be glad to have your Liberty back home!
Soon be time to burn some diesel 🙂
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Certainly different peoples experiences and perceptions vary, and thankfully, there are alternatives for all. My experiance in big boats has shown HH to be, in my opinion, a fantastic, well-integrated, complete and reliable system. I have owned all the high-end systems. I also beleive the HH toilets require the pressure and flow generated by their pump. I would hesitate to rework the entire system on my Liberty… it just works.
While I wish these pumps would last longer, I think 9 years is pretty good for an intermittantly used system. In my book half price is better than full price, and I am unaware of any other vender offering such discounts on 9 year old gear… YMMV.
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I had a co-worker do exactly what you’re considering. He said it was a year well spent and his children didn’t fall behind when they reentered public schools the following year. They likely gained direct experiences that will be retained longer than many learning taught at school.
My recommendation would be to start with summer vacation and see how everyone adapts to the close quarters and what impact being away from friends may have on your children.
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Hp is not going to help with the towing max hp is set at max rpm the torque is what you are after use your crusie control to achive that
good luck
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Tom, the only difference between the 220V 3 wire and the 220V 4 wire is the lack of the neutral wire. The phase is not split so to speak since the circuit has only 220V loads.