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Joel,

I did a write up on fan clutch replacement, and I’ll have to dig it up and post it if I haven’t already.

But here are the key points. First, take stuff off the weldment that holds the gear box so you can tip it all the way towards the engine. That maximixes the rooom while working on the fan.

With that structure tipped toward the engine the maximum possible, use a mirror to look at the nuts that hold the fan to the clutch. Remove them and just carefully lay the fan against the radiator. I think (have to find the procedure I wrote) you can remove a portion of the clutch that is behind the fan. I think it has some strong magnets so after you get the fasteners off be prepared to pry it free from the magnets with a pry or heavy screw driver.

Remove the pulley from the clutch, then disconnect the wires. The whole object is to strip as much from the clutch as possible because it is heavy and you are lifting with your arms outstretched. Remove the four nuts and bolts holding it to the welded structure and lift it out. Once you have it out it is easy to see how it all comes apart and goes back together. I wish I knew that when I did it because I removed it with the fan attached and my back paid the price.

Plan on a couple of hours. There is nothing above the clutch you can tie onto to use to pull it up or support the clutch so if you have back problems, bribe a neighbor you don’t like with beer and sacrifice his back.

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this is what I get when I try to edit;

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Jan and I were sitting outside this morning having coffee and the compressor cycled, it sounded like the water pump running, what a nice change. The pancake I would turn off at night as not to disturb the people next to us, or if people were sitting outside. I have read between 55-60 dB’s or decibels.

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If the leak is around the seal on the AC compressor behind the clutch, if everything else with the compressor is OK it makes sense to replace the seal. My guess is a couple of hours plus less than $100 for the seal.

A huge clue if the seal is the source of the leak is behind the clutch it is likely to be dirty with grease and oil.

I would probably close off the valves while working on the compressor and check the balance of the system for leaks also. That can be done by pulling a vacuum and making sure it holds, or after doing that pressurizing with nitrogen. Any good shop can do that. Based on the age of the coach however I would make sure the compressor was in good shape, the cylinders are not scored and the valves are good. Otherwise I would shop for a remanufactured compressor. Sometimes Prevost runs special sales so it will not hurt to check with them.

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If you catch it as soon as you see if fogging you can remove the window and have a local glass company separate the two panes, clean it, and reseal it. If the foggy condition has been present for a long time the glass becomes permanently damaged and it cannot be reused.

The cost to have it resealed is minimal. Removal only requires cutting the Sikaflex that bonds it into place with a utility knife. Cut along the window from the inside of the frame, and also around the periphery from the outside. Clean off all Sikaflex and when replacing the window apply a bead to the inside surface of the frame , position the window and apply Sikaflex to fill the gap around the outside perimeter. It can get a little messy so mask areas you don’t want messed up with Sikaflex.

I have replaced a few and it is an easy process. If you cannot reuse the glass your choice is to buy a replacement from Prevost, or you may want to consider a piece of laminated safety glass of sufficient thickness to replace the thermopane as some have done for a permanent fix.

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Man-Man, Y’all (that is Okie talk) should be really glad that you were not here and parked at the campground.

Lastnight we had thunder-garbage and all the related benefits of Oklahoma weather. Hail a little bit larger than “grapefruits” (4.5 inches) hit the Oklahoma City area with complete abandon.

Now the good news …. We are going to get even more of it tonight.

Is this a great state or what?

BCO

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Dan & Jo – you’re on the list – glad to have you join us! Be sure to call Bella Terra to secure your reservations!

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Welcome aboard PUP and PUP members. Tom and I are happy to be able to host a site for your group and wish you much success.

For other Prevost enthusiast social groups if you are looking for a convenient spot to have a forum where your members can “meet”, discuss items of interest, plan events, elect officers or do whatever you want on a private forum get in touch with Tom or myself. Prevost Community is not a club or special interest social group and its purpose is to share information of value to all Prevost enthusiasts, but we recognize the enjoyment Prevost owners and enthusiasts get out of group activities and on line discussions so we are more than willing to provide such a venue if desired.

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The Jun-air compressors are great. They come in a variety of sizes, are quiet, almost without vibration and often run 15 to 20 years in commercial applications. Common uses are medical and dental applications due to the discharge air quality.

You can get a new one for around $1000 or buy a good used one on ebay for around $200. Buy it, change the oil and put it in your bus. The one in my bus will pump the aux tank from 0 to 100PSI in around 5 min.

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Mike,

I have repaired two, all of the problems being in the air rocker switches that were not functioning or leaking. I got the parts from Prevost because I couldn’t find a supplier in the states for Isri. That may have changed, it’s been a few years. I do remember I had to change out the entire rocker assembly, couldn’t buy just the single parts I needed.

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You beat me to that one. I had the same thought!

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Jon, you are right, I believe the technology for solar is a long way off, maybe we will have mini nuclear plants for big rigs in the future, imagine not having to stop for fuel for five years at a time, yes you will have to have the whole top of the bus covered in radiators to cool the nuke rods in th small reacter. The down side of this senerio is having to be inspected by the Nuclear reglatory agency evey month. Well so much for that thought!

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Hi Jon, I agree with you in general but having an alternative energy
source may be a good choice for some. I understand the point you are making
with regard to the fact that our buses are energy hogs but more and more, as
these solar panels are becoming less expensive and more efficient, they may
prove to be a viable (at least supplemental) option for our buses. I’m still not convinced though
that solar will work for me yet, but I’m looking into what’s available out there, just to
get an idea. I don’t know if I will be able to run all the things I’d like to (at
one time) off a panel certainly, but hopefully, I could least keep all the
batteries “topped off”, be able to monitor their charge and condition and run a few small things, that
would be a good start for my application when dry camping.

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Hi Tom,

I looked at that style of hub cap when I recently replaced mine. I believe that the “wedge lock” relies on the fact that it binds on the thread of the stud when you tighten the bolts on the cap. So if you do not have enough stud protruding it will not provide the required holding strength.

Although cutting down the nut will provide the required protruding stud I would not personally recommend it. If I remember correctly from trade school the thickness of the nut must be the same as the diameter of the fastener to provide the same strength. So if the fastener is 1″ you must have 1″ of engaged thread to match the holding power of the stud or bolt.

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A Liberty it ain’t!

Yes, I too think it is ugly, but that whole “low rent” comment about our buses is the thing that still sticks in my craw.