[AL]

Well I got the bands made and was going to lift the muffler in place and use a floor jack to set it to finish the mounting brackets, WRONG! The muffler doesn’t fit between the welded in place mounting brackets.

So unless someone tells me the secret to this job, I’m going to cut the welds and make bolt on mounting brackets.

There is no way to take it in through the engine door, I would have to remove the fan/gear box and bracket.

And don’t tell me I should have done it when I replaced the radiator 🙂

Ice tea now… but Ultra later! 🙂

[AL]

Yes it does answer my question… thank you very much… Many other folks were wondering about that too! It’s great to know these things.

Thanks,

Diane

[AL]

Very nice John…

How about it boys and girls, John’s project turned out looking
like a professional job and I believe it’s safe to say his
participation in PC and the wealth of knowledge on this site
contributed greatly.

Pass the word, we ARE the “Go to Place” for the Prevost
Community.

PS – It didn’t cost John a dime for the privilege!

[AL]

Rodger,

When I talked to a professional at an exhaust supplier, he told me he didn’t have a muffler that would handle the exhaust of a 8v and that Prevost more then likely has them made specially for them. That is why I just ordered it from Prevost. FYI

[AL]

As Diane mentioned your Vantare likely is not set up the way other coaches are likely to be set up, but I can assure you regardless of how any coach is set up the risk of a problem is near zero if you turn off all power possible.

If everything does in fact go through your inverters there is no way you should have anything on to keep the risk of a problem near zero.

The reason for turning inverters off is they function regardless of the source of power. If 120 volt is coming in to them, they are chargers or a pass through device or both. If no 120 volt power is coming into them they are pulling power from the batteries to create 120. Turning them off shuts down all functions and that is typically done at the remote panel. Then turn off the 120 volt power into them. Then turn off the battery master switch which I presume all conversions have. And then double check. The reason for being careful is electric is dangerous and even if you only get surpised by the 12 volt or 24 volt battery current, those batteries will generate enough power to give you a serious spark or weld a tool or burn a hole in your chassis. If you take precautions there is likely to be no issue.

If you prepare, maybe even get a helper for the heavy lifting, there is a lot that can be done prior to actually shutting off power to minimize the time your coach is without power. If your inverters have to be reprogrammed (that depends on the type) read the manuals and know how to do it so your new batteries will receive the proper charging protocol. No sense going to the trouble of installing new batteries and then ruining them with the wrong charge.

As to the shut down procedures it is likely covered in the inverter manual, the owner’s manual or maybe even a placard. There may be other items on the coach that require a procedure for shut down so take care to insure you are aware of all the procedures. For example my coach has specific procedures for the generator start system to be observed before killing power to the coach.

[AL]

You could drill holes in the corners of a square that would be covered by the plug flange and gasket. Use a 1/2″ drill and through that would pass a hack saw blade (one end covered with tape) to cut by habd carefully a hole to pass the body of the plug/receptical. Have two blades incase, one should suffice.

Working with stainless have sharp tools. SPEED IS THE ENEMY. If you had the strength to hold the drill motor and could run it slow enough the hole saw with cutting oil would work.

A produst called tapmagic might help as a cutting aid as it cools by a chemical means. Cutting on a vertical surface willmake it difficult to keep the cutting interface cooled with any product. There are thickeners to add to cutting oil to make it stick, found in specialty houses.

Make the square hole you will be happy. Nice and slow, NO OOPS, if you know what I mean.

JIM

[AL]

John,

In another life I designed and devloped products for the medical industry like sterilizers, biological refrigerators, nurses station units, etc. They all had stainless steel cabinetry. During development of prototypes we often wanted to add holes and we used the Greenlee punches on both mild steel and stainless up to 16 gauge (about 59 thickness). I doubt if our bus skins are 20 gauge so the thickness is much lighter. It will work fine if you can get at both sides.

If we couldn’t use the Greenlee because of access or other reasons we scribed the circle, used small diameter drills around the periphery of the hole and then used a die grinder with an abrasive material or a carbide burr cutter.

[AL]

Back to normal….thanks

[AL]

How come there are no replies from “Prevost” on this matter? Or am I not seeing them here?

[AL]

George , There is a sealer called Red Angel i have used it on several leaking systems if yor system will hold a valcum for 30 minutes it will most aways fix the leak . It has worked in that black dodge you meet me in at mcdonalds for 4 years on a compressor leak . It cost about forty dollars i get it at napa any a/c garage can add it if they have an oil injection device it is only about 2 ounces. A/C shops dont like it because it takes a lot of high dollar work from them . I have also used it in the H1 hummer the blue on at my house in Deleon Springs . You remember me yet ? I would be glad to get you a bottle if you want to give it a shot . it is not a short term fix but as i feel a good thing to have in any system sort of like insurance . They also make a product called Blue Devil that i put in cooling systems of all new built performance engins . You are the drummer i hope

[AL]

Took it to Detroit Diesel on Tuesday, didn’t hear anything yet so I called the service Mgr today, he informed me they cleared the codes and only the low oil pressure code comes up and check engine light comes on, however they cannot get any throttle response!

This no throttle business has happened to me before and I had called my mechanic about it, he informed me the 8v92 is a very cold blooded animal and needs to be warmed up before it will move. So I always made sure it was warmed up before getting under way and it always worked.

I think these characters at DD are not properly trained in the antique technology that is the 8v92 and just did not let it warm up enough.

Am I right or wrong? or somewhere in between?

[AL]

Hey Don, do they allow on the interstate, your about 80′ long.:)

[AL]

Tom,

I contacted Royal Phenix and got a compleate list of the original build on mine. It lists everyting right down to the carpets, floor tile, upolstery, paint colors etc. I was also able to get over 50 pages of specific wiring and plumbing info by coach number. Think I paid them $200 for the full set in PDF format.

[AL]

I am trying to take the fan off to make it easier to clean it and around it while the radiator is out. It is the fixed fan plastic and I have removed the 6 bolts that should hold it on but it will not come off. I have sprayed PB Blaster where the shaft comes through the fan and at the back where it meets the coupler. I have even run aputty knife betweeen it and the coupler. What am I missing? I am not trying to remove the coupler, just the blade.

[AL]

Good! I want to see what I can get for $200.