Peter
Forum Replies Created
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All good thoughts for CC owners…we found our Toilet (Microflush) has an overflow tube that drops down and upward which acts as a ptrap, but, can loose its contents over time due to no replacement fluids. It should replenish during each flush, but as a matter of “Maintenance” I make sure when I drain the black tank, I fill the bowl far enought to ensure some water will enter the overflow tubing to replenish and keep unwanted “air” in the tank.
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Ditto what Jon said, chassis, house, converter, year, etc…
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I may be wrong on this, but my experiences suggest not.
The blue hoses with a fabric type texture on the outer surface are what I consider to be DD quality and I believe their life to be exceptional. I have never had an issue with any of them nor have I ever replaced one. But I look very hard at them and at my next coolant change the coach will be 10 years old and the lower short hose sections will be replaced because I need to redo the clamps in that area anyway.
The red hoses with a smooth outer surface are used in several places associated with the Webasto inside the house. They are getting changed at 10 years. I think their life span is longer than 10 years but because they are hidden I just don’t need the grief of a failed hose.
Black hoses of automotive quality as shown in the photos above are of the lousiest quality and I do whatever I can to get rid of them. Right now I have none on the coach. I do have short sections of small diameter hose such as used in cars and those might be OK for the long term, but I have been replacing them about 5 or 6 years and when I can do it, I replace them with hose the quality of the blue engine hose.
Hoses are cheap. Clamps are cheap. Sometimes the labor to replace even a short hose section is a lot, but when less than $100 worth of hose eliminates a very expensive problem the effort to replace hoses is well worth it especially if the task is combined with coolant changes. I was luckier than Bill because I had a failure of a short hose section on our first coach and the loss of coolant was at a relatively slow rate and I was near a truck repair shop that had a piece of hose. And I had looked at the failed section of hose often and saw no indication it was going to fail. That was an eye opener.
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That sounds like a good day trip, Thank you!
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Great. Going off memory on the back of the display there are two trim pots. One red and one green. The red one adjusts the reading for a full tank and the green one adjusts the empty reading. Since yours is reading empty the 1st step is to have a full tank. Then go to your plumbing bay and press and hold, for about 10 seconds, the little button on the bottom of the corresponding sentry box. Then go back inside and turn the red trim pot clockwise until all the red LED’s are illuminated. Continue a half turn once all LED’s are illuminated. I find a tiny flathead screwdriver that you can get from CVS or Walgreens used to tighten the screw for eyeglasses works best.
Again, this is just going off memory from several months back. But when I get to the coach I’ll copy and send you the printed instructions.
Note: As Peter has pointed out there are different versions and the shape of the LED’s is a quick way to differentiate them. All my LED’s are round, unlike the picture I posted earlier.
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Hopefully Roger will jump in here Larry, he’s done it.
He even pushed his bus with it….
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We just experienced this same code. However on my coach, the code didn’t flash. We had the coach towed into Albuquerque and had the tech run the code. Was flashing the same code, 22.
Fluid levels were good. Called Expert Transmission. He called me back immediately on a Saturday. Followed all his suggestions. Still had to be towed from Grant, NM. I could not get the coach to stop flashing “do not shift”. It is now at Stewart Stevensen shop waiting for Tuesday. We had to continue to Denver as my wife had appointments she could not miss.
You were lucky in that you were able to continue driving. Had no issues the day before. It ran great. Just had the ECU and the transmission module replace in Phoenix just the week before as the jake would not function. ECU was giving off codes. I replaced the ECU as I didn’t want to be stuck in the middle of no where. Still happened. Was hoping the issue was under warrenty from that job, but looks like something new. We just put the synthetic fluid in last year when a solenoid went bad in the transmission. How soon should we change the fluid? Good discussion on the fact that a lot of the old oil is still in the transmission.
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I am going to offer him $275K and see what he says.
I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma, 5 speed, four wheel drive, in good condition. Mileage is 167K. It has a “Ferrari” sticker on the tailgate. Asking $75K.
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Thanks everyone, I will look around.
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file:///Users/boateral/Desktop/5.jpg
Arrow points to micro pressure relieving vent hole Truk4u referred to. I would strongly suspect an improperly installed hub seal.
Based on shop responses Jon, has a good suggestion.
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never heard of those 2 or three. Can’t see reasoning for that statement. Would think overfilled hub–wrong oil—poor bearing adjustment. Seal not installed correctly. If you had a caliper sticking you would feel it in the steering wheeel and prob feel the heat generated by the dragging. Neither should effect the hub oil until it got extreme!!!! Bob
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quick question on the air lock…
Is this a prevost chassis item or a convertor item?
Getting to the poston is a little more complex the expected so thinking I will install a shut off valve in the steering area on the line that feeds the air lock. This way I can turn it off when I dont need it (sitting for a while) and turn it on when I like to use it (when I am driving to help create a better seal from the wind). Then I can replace the actual leaky piston when I get back to the east coast next fall and Jeff’s guy’s can take it apart properly.
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Steve, Dick and all who consider themselves newbies and who might be in awe of our coaches. Your are clearly in good company. I don’t care how long you have owned a specific coach, you are still going to have stuff you don’t know. I am realizing nobody can possibly know it all. First, we are all using a Prevost chassis, which in itself is an evolving product, and not the simplest assemblage of pieces and parts.
Then that chassis has a house stuffed into it. We all know that while our houses share common characteristics with outher houses from the same converter, no two of those are alike and they are just as complex as the chassis.
I find the comments made by our members almost every time are not only valid, they are the type that a designer would read, and follow with a slap to the forehead. Putting numbers on circuits that match the breakers in the electric panel sure seems obvious when Dick mentions it, but why hasn’t something like that been done?
The best we can all do is post our thoughts. It doesn’t matter how much experience or knowledge we have, just doing a brain dump from time to time is proven to be very helpful. As to formal education, we on PC run the gamut. We have folks whose education has been the school of hard knocks and those who are formally educated to a high degree. But it is not only educatiuon. Look at the career history of our members and the diverse backgrounds. This is a group I am certain that is capable of resolving any issue, not only those related to the coach.
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I had National Interstate when we had the coach fire. They were outstanding to deal with.
As to the use of State Farm or any other insurer who will give you an apples and apples quote just remember one thing. If they don’t know what a bus conversion is you might be in a world of hurt if you are thinking chassis repair work is going to go to the closest Prevost service center or Prevost approved paint and repair shop and they are thinking the local RV repair shop. If you think this is an issue the next time you are parked next to a new RV compare your 10 or 15 year old multiple layer, smooth as glass high tech finish with the quality level of the RV. Then look at the different construction methods used to built an RV (place a framed up box covered with fiberglass panels on a truck chassis) compared to the highly sophisticated monocoque chassis structure on a Prevost.
You are going to get what you pay for.
If you do bend some metal hope it did not affect the house because your problems just increased exponentially starting with explaining why neither the Camping World repair shop or Prevost is qualified to deal with the conversion.
Conversion?????? What’s a conversion?
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The Aux Marathon tank is the only place I know of to catch any moisture. The Marathon and Liberty are completely different.
Aux Prevost and Aux Marathon are never combined unless you do it as Tom does, manually turning a valve. I personally don’t do it.In older model Marathons Aux tank placement was hidden and I believe ignored by most owners so you find rusted out tanks like BA’s and Truks. They are trying to help others by showing what can happen.
What is very confusing to most is we all have the Aux Air Prevost gage in the bus and most people think it is tied into all things related to Aux air. Not so on a Marathon, they have isolated all of the house items to run off the electric driven compressor which is located on the back of the generator on H’s and XLII’s.
On a Marathon if your relatively leak free the setup they have is great. Buses in humid climates and one that has leaking items on the house side will have moisture because of the Aux comp working itself to death.
Later
bv