orren
Forum Replies Created
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Algae is a serious problem, but preventable. Continuous use of the coach is the easiest way to prevent algae. But I suspect most of us do not run the coach regularly so during periods of storage the first thing that should be done is to make sure the tank is full. The less air space the better.
If possible store the coach where temperatures are constant. If the temperatures vary very little the fuel tank is not “breathing” air in and out. As temps go up and down air expands and contracts and as it enters the fuel tank the humidity condenses and with moisture in the tank algae forms.
Once algae is present it is a serious problem so the cheapest and best solution is to keep it out of the tank.
My coach is parked for the summer, just like it is every year. But my tank is full and my garage is well insulated so the temperatures in the garage are going to be a relative constant through the day. Right now the garage is at 65, but by the end of summer it will have risen to 80, but it will take all summer for the temp to rise that much, and during the day the variation in temps from the coolest to warmest and be counted on the fingers of one hand so the tank is not breathing air in and out as it expands and contracts.
If you cannot store a coach in constant temps use an algacide and carry spare fuel filters. Algae if formed, even if killed with an algacide can plug filters. The worst place to store a coach is where humidity is high so if that is where it is stored keep the tank full to minimize the air space.
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Did you check the oil level Harry?
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Roof airs have the potential to make a very nice coach unpleasant. We never had roof airs but we spent an hour in a coach that had them and the converter was proud of them and how quiet they were. We just smiled because it was like sitting inside a drum.
I know some are very quiet, some are loud, some installations do a very nice job of isolating noise, others not so good.
My free advice is before making any decision go through as many coaches as possible with roof airs and find out which ones are quiet, which ones have the type of controls you want to stick with and which ones scream like a banshee. Based solely on our limited experiences sitting inside coaches with roof airs we know they can be acceptable regarding noise or they are intolerable. I don’t know how to separate a lousy installation that does nothing to reduce noise from a roof air putting out unacceptable noise levels, but I do know I don’t care what anyone says because the decision is too important to not do the research by myself by listening to them in operation.
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I’ve also found that the surface you are parked on can have an affect on the HI/PS issue. Grass is best, followed by gravel, concrete and lastly asphalt.
Of course no matter what you are parked on or how tall you are, they still blow a lot of heat out from under the coach. For those of us who sit outside, it is one more drawback of cruise airs VS roof airs.
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Thanks for the update. We added the 16th at Teton also for some full hookup laundry, general clean up, and R&R time.
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You’re not waiting on me Corey, I have sent numerous e-mails to both you and Geo with no response.
You have my number, I don’t have yours, that’s the reason I’ve sent you e- mails.
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How about a power cord long enough to use anywhere but alongside. Geo.
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Or find one with the delman fix already completed. There are plenty out there that have been fixed. I would not let that factor into my decision to buy..
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OK, so the cycling is only when using water. That would be consistent with low air pressure in the accumulator tank or a ruptured bladder. The rumtured bladder is not to be confused with Jon’s frequent peeing schedule.
I think your right on the fresh water fill not closing, that would push water out the overflow.
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Thanks for the tip Jon
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I’ve been fortunate enough to be a Hat Creek twice, here’s a few samples:
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Andy,
The reason I mentioned how few times the ABS kicked in when I was driving in the Miami of the north (western NY) is because I modulated the brakes in the same fashion you learn to modulate the gas pedal to get moving. The reason ABS and stability control underperform is because skilled drivers (I’m not claiming to be one) can push their vehicles to the ragged edge, and like highly skilled aerobatic pilots and race car drivers they get a sense of what is happening with the vehicle. Some use the term “seat of the pants” to describe their feel for what is happening. But for people who rarely push their cars to the limit and thus lack a sense of what is happening ABS is ideal because it is far better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick. All they have to do is stomp hard on the brakes and let the ABS do the best it can which is probably a lot better than locking the brakes, losing not only the ability to stop quickly, but at the same time losing the ability to steer.
There was a time in my life when my daily driver was a split window Corvette. I ran that all year long in shitty conditions, deep snow, slippery highway surfaces and with the exception of one 360 degree spin I was always able to get where I needed to go. When I spun it I was just lucky because I entered a turn too fast, it snapped around and I ended up exiting the turn pointed in the right direction without ever leaving the road. The key was and is to not overdrive the conditions and plan way way ahead.
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that would be a great seminar…..Firearms transportation or Firearm Safety Course
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Dick, be sure that the receptacle that you get is flush with the surface of the box or protruding slightly, not recessed.
I bought a “campground box” that looked great but since our 50 amp plugs normall are 90° plugs, a metal ridge near the bottom of the receptacle would not allow the plug to be fully inserted. I ended up doing some sheet metal work to remove the ridge and all is well.
If you can avoid the problem to begin with, it will be worth it.
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That’s pretty cool Ken and it hides the speedometer!:)