Mike/Lisa
Forum Replies Created
-
Thank you Clay
-
try to reset smx control panel. had to one twice last week.
-
What I am currently using is kind of unimportant because no matter what you choose it is outdated in about a month. What is important is field of view.
I currently have two dash cams, both with about a 180 degree field of view, and one biased to the left and the other to the right. I can pick up a car passing on the left just before its nose begins to pass the bus. Ditto for the right.
If I wanted to have the ideal set up I would also have cameras to look down both sides and across the rear. My main concern has always been to record other drivers that see a bus owner as a source of revenue, and intentionally pull in front and slam on the brakes to cause a rear end collision. I have that ability, but you may want more coverage.
-
Plugged in the grounded neutral plug to one of the 20 Amp plug and presto the 30 Amp plug now will power the bus.
-
No….nothing inside the condenser units other than relays and terminals.
There is a clearly identified CA control / communication “box” for each CA mounted somewhere in your bays.
May be behind a partition or mounted out of sight on a ceiling but they are there – one for each unit.
-
I just let it free flow. It will flows to the channel of the coach and goes to the ground. I thought about pluming it to the waste tanks but it was so hot and I may address this at a later date.
-
If it is an EGR you will have a heat exchanger on the left side of the engine looking forward, with tubing coming from that around the top of the rear of the engine into the intake manifold.
The boost gauge will not show true boost because when the EGR kicks in under power the boost goes up to 50 PSI, but will only show about 30. I do not know how accurate the boost gauge is when it is reading turbo pressure without the EGR engaged.
-
One for ceiling lights the other for tivoli lights on my Liberty. Available online or at NAPA etc.
12vdc, 100 amp or more, continuous duty
-
My 05 chassis 08 title xl2 40ft has the 12.7 non def. I believe it’s 500hp
-
MENU ABOVE > PARTNERS > REPAIR & SERVICE
-
Unfortunately, ever since they took out all the good nasty pcb laden oils, capacitors shrunk in physical size and the lifespan plummeted. The more oil in it, the better it could dissipate heat. Normally, your motor/compressor should have a tag on it listing the specs for the required capacitor, and certainly, if not ON the compressor, on the box, or, worst case scenario, Google can come in to play. You need to be within 10% of the rated capacitor, higher or lower, but within 10%, and you can substitute a 25/440 for a 25/370, but never ever go the other direction, using a 370 when it calls for a 440. Also, capacitors CAN get weak and even though may appear to test good, if the motor runs hot and draws excess amps, the FIRST thing to try is to replace the capacitor with a fresh one. YMMV, Christyj
-
Ed:
When I got my Featherlite about 4 years ago one of the trace inverters was shot. Had the magnums installed (minus the auto gen start) and they have worked fine. Just know that nothing new is as robust as the old trace’s are. I have experienced overloads shutdowns on the magnums when I push the limits.
Chuck
-
Still pretty pricey, but I just ran across “Cruise N Comfort” brand DC units that would probably be about a 1:1 replacement for Cruise Airs…
https://stores.12voltairconditioning.com/ves-24l-icebox-24-volt/
There’s also an even cheaper “Undermount AC” brand unit which is definitely a different form factor, but includes a heater coil that would work well with Aquahot/Webasto/etc for heat.
Granted these are both 24V instead of 110V so your electrical system would have to be able to support that and there would be some wiring needed to replace the 110V…
-
I certainly understand your desire for roof airs. Our current coach has 3 roof airs. We just finished up working in Las Vegas for 5 months. We had highs of 110-115 for several months and the interior stayed in the 70’s with only 2 A/C’s running at a time. The Cruisairs in our last coach could never have done that. The best part of the setup of these is that you have the option of using the ducted air PLUS you can open the air dump directly into the coach. You can go from quite warm to cool in just a matter of minutes. It’s noisy but dang it’s cold! Even if it was the standard interior A/C cover and controls it quiets down when the dump is closed and not at all obnoxious. We do have the A/C’s on thermostats but having controls on the ceiling of the interior housing would not be any more or less convenient.
-
Thanks Larry, we’ll miss you, hopefully catch up to you in the desert this winter.