Larry & Diane
Forum Replies Created
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I would like to rewire mine so I would have more control over them. Mine open and close depending on the compressor for the AC’s. So they keep banging open and close as the AC’s work. I would have thought that they were a converter add on.
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“When I look at the pictures of Jon & Di’s beautiful new ride…”
Is it true?
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Greg,
You will have the invoices in hand if you go through the procedure involving the previous owners written permission. I’ve done it and it just takes some time. I was at Nashvile, had the previous owners written permission and they printed out all they had for me.
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I stayed this year in Desert Edge in North Pheonix (Deer Valley), KOA in Appache Junction both were Just OK.
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Hey Jon, I thought a new site with the highest of standards would not draw as much incoming fire as the old site, but I am totally WRONG. Try to teach people the tricks to semi dry camping and look what you get !!!!. By the way on your next dry camp run (in case u didn’t know) if u drink enough, you’ll just pass out therefore the bath room want be needed or you’ll just open the front door and have at it!
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Diane,
Don’t let Tom influence you about my amazing ability to get up on ladders. In fact if you want I can open up my folding ladder and look at your roof to see if I can see anything. The is a Camping World nearby and they have an excellent roof sealer I use on the seams of my roof.
C’mon over, we’ll supply the coffee and you can see how I have the brakes on the Hummer set up. Simple, easy to use and uses the coach air system.
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Thanks Ron…
I have had a another guy (expert) checking out the roof again … claims there are a few questionable areas… we had to leave and go to the Heritage Rally, so he’s going to check it out as soon as we return. Praying for no rain… LOL
Diane
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Diane,
Leaks at the front cap joint have resulted in water on the
floor a few inches behind the door on my coach. A tube of Dicor self-leveling
sealant spread liberally across the seam on the roof solved that problem.My wife complained of a high-pitched whistle in the area
between the trapezoid window and the first large window on the curb side. Since
old pilots can’t hear much, I had to have her drive while I put my ear close to
the spot and discovered the glue at the rear edge of the trapezoid had come
loose and was allowing air to escape. I didn’t have a water leak there because
I installed extra rain gutters behind my awnings on the roof, forcing the rain
to drain off at the ends. If your roof drains down the side of your coach in
this area, it’s possible that could be the source of your leak. Re-sealing the
window would be an easy fix. You’ve probably already considered this, but I
thought I’d point it out just in case. -
Ron… Thanks for your reply… our coach is also a ’98 model conversion… 1997 body I believe… our leak is the window directly behind the passenger seat and it’s one big solid window with no emergency escape. I wonder if the configuration might be the same, we are re-checking some close to the leak areas first such as the seam across the front cap etc before we get into tearing up the inside to access the screws for the windows, and as Prevost suggested I will tape off the window to make sure that is the problem.
Thanks so much for your reply… I will post the solution when I have it, in hopes to help someone else.
Diane -
Jon,
I do have the service manual and it does show how to make fiberglass repairs so that would be a help. I have had trouble with the online manuals since they start at year 2000. Is there a way to pull up the older ones? I had to buy the book copy because Prevost told me that did not have mine electronic. I will investigate the repair.
Jim,
Thanks for the tip. If the repair does not pan out I may look into that option.
Thanks to all!!!
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I would suggest first looking at the roof cap above the window where the leak is. Confirm that there is not a crack in the fiberglass cap allowing entry for the water. Verify that all items mounted on the roof are sealed well and have no openings around them.
From the inside look to see if there are any panels that can be removed in the ceiling on that side or next to the window. That way you could posibly see the water as it is gaining access.
Find a way to tape off the top of the window assembly and see if you can stop the water from coming in. Try different areas until you are able to stop the water.
If this is by the large trapezoid side window, they can be removed. If the vehicle is a mid to late 2000s shell this window is bolted in and the converter has built covers for around the edge of the window. So your converter could be of assistance if they can gain you access to the windwo by removing or telling you how to remove the window trim.
Let me know what your Prevost VIN is and I will find you a diagram of the windwo installation. -
I cannot offer an apology because if on a future trip we find ourselves lacking a sewer connection it is likely we will do the same thing. To say I am sorry would be lying.
Peter, don’t you have a colony of moles to feed or something?
BTW, how about posting photos of your car carrier. I’ll bet there is interest here.
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Ditto, ditto.
For peace of mind learn the capacity of your holding tanks. Then get in the habit of never filling the fresh water tank unless you dump the holding tank(s). Going further, if your fresh water capacity is greater than waste holding, limit the amount of fresh water you have in the tank to never exceed the waste capacity.
You may run out of water, but you won’t have any nasty surprises that way.
We adjust our habits based on our situation. We dry camped at the Daytona 500. We spent from mid day Tuesday until our return late on Monday. Water was available but no sewer. We cooked, showered, and used the toilet, but we conserved water by only flushing when (well you know)……., we showered by getting wet, shutting off the water and then soaping up, then turning it back on to rinse, and we drank booze instead of water. The point is we conserved and returned with 30% of our fresh water. When we have full hookups we do not conserve in that manner, but instead enjoy the luxury of always flushing and letting the water run while we shower. We still drink booze.
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Tom will get back to you on that. It is something I found in a wrecking yard for RV, but it 12volts and has a solenoid that relieves the head pressure when it turns off. I couldn’t find my pictures of the setup.
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Greg,
If your aux air compressor is cycling often, once per hour or more, then you are leaking excess air (A “tight coach” aux air compressor cycle for me is once a week). The noise could be related to air escaping.
If your aux air compressor is not cycling often, then here is another idea. On my coach when I dump all the air and set the coach all the way down, I will hear “groans” in a sort of timed sequence for a few minutes after I dump the air. I diagnosed this to the rubber mounts on the drag links connected to the rear axle. The rubber is dry and will make this noise when the dropped coach causes the drag link/bushing to move to this extreme.
When my coach was leaking aux air and the tag axle would dump, I would hear this same noise as the coach settled. For owners with newer coaches that do not deal with a tag axle dump on low aux air, this issue would never happen.
Let me know what you find on this. Knowledge is a powerful thing is dealing with these older coaches.
Hector