John
Forum Replies Created
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Harry,
We talked about zeroing out a coach and your experience is why we suggest a calendar time for certain components such as tires, batteries, air bags, brake chambers, etc. When any one of them and other key components fail you have a problem of relatively significant proportions. If you attempt to drive the bus with a failed air bag keep in mind you can create more damage and expense than you are already dealing with. So my primary suggestions is to find someone to fix what is broke with the bus in place.
If you do plan to drive it somewhere you have to at least protect your safety and driving with a compromised air system is not safe. I do not know if your protection valve is working so I am going to tell you the procedure you should follow to maintain full brake system pressure.
First, set your level low to manual. If you know where the leak is air up the coach and manually add air to the two non-leaking parts of the suspension. LH, RH or front. One of the three leaks no sense adding air to it to bring up the coach.
Leave the level low in the manual position and all three systems, primary, secondary and accessory should air up to 120 PSI. If they do not air up to 120 and cycle as needed rethink a decision to move the coach.
Drive slow, but with the level low in manual and if you are not trying to add or exhaust air from the leaky section of the suspension you should have effectively closed the leak at the Norgrens. Did I say drive slow?
When you get it fixed, do not stop with the one failed air bag. Do all 8. If you haven’t replaced brake chambers, replace them also.
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Hi Tom, I do that with a 50 mile run at minimum once a month. I’ve noticed almost all RV’s in storage use them and is what prompted the question. Just thought I’d find out if they are used by the members and if so what’s best? Thanks Tom.
Harry
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Where did you order the cables?
Ron
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John
MemberJuly 15, 2019 at 12:50 pm in reply to: Officer: May I see your license and registration?No problem Seajet. Significant differences between the two cultures, but many similarities.
We have many Amish enclaves in Wisconsin. The buggies are common in those area. The Walmart in my hometown of Shawano (30 miles NE of Green Bay) has hitching posts for the Amish to tie their horses up to when they “come to town” to shop.
When you’re out and about and see the sign below … there are definitely Amish in the area and you’re likely to see a buggy on the road. Please drive with care.
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I went through every fuse and breaker in the ecc and what I call under the seat. All checks good. I do have a single fuse by the inverters. It also is good. The cause I suspect is the cb radio was cut out. And all three wires look like they were cut at once. Hoping in a week to get back to figuring it out. The camera is really nice when hooking up to the trailer .
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Let’s think:
1. Find early xl2 with hub centric drive wheels.
2. ck part# for hubs
3. ck part# for your hubs
If they match, you’re good to go. If they don’t match, they may not match for another reason, so that’s inconclusive.
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I’ve always liked Glen better than you.
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Maybe this is not something that can be answered, but prior to this trip, what was normal.
Anytime someone gets a new-to-them coach the first thing regarding gauges and readings is to find out what is “normal”. Once that benchmark has been established than other than normal readings are easily identified.
Are you sure the readings you are seeing are outside the range of what you have always seen?
As Tom points out he detected his inverter issue by knowing what represented normal or typical readings and then observing readings outside the range of what he usually saw.
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Wow, what a surprise on my 2000 Marathon with no service history that something is screwed up.
Here are pictures of the two norgrens at the drive axle.
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Fred…
Thanks so much for all your hard work getting this together !!!
Cheers, Larry & Diane
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And if you haven’t looked at the “Articles” section by all means do so. Jon has some excellent information on maintenance schedules, things to know and look at etc. It’s well worth your time to scroll through it and see the mix of info.
Harry
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Read the owner’s manual??
Preposterous. Only as last resort.
Of course I’ve had several “last resorts”
Good advice.
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Cal,
Start with your converter. They had the slide installed and at the very least they should be able to provide an owner’s manual.
To get specific advice on the forum, add a signature line with some basic information such as you type coach, model year, converter and any other information to enable answers that target your coach specifically.
Do that in your profile. The button is at the top of the blue buttons on the main forum page.
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Bumping this to the top. Hope more will consider this. Should be a nice rest from the heat in August n a beautiful area.
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I have spoken with Prevost a number of times about “updating” my drive wheels and tires. Unanimously, Prevost has said that I “cannot” change the 8.5’s to 9’s and I “cannot” install the somewhat larger metric tires on the 8.5’s on the drive axle. They are “cool” with larger tires on the steer and tag smaller wheels and I have done this successfully in the past. I now, once again, I have 12R/22.5’s all around. It’s really not worth the effort to change as there is no noticeable difference in the various setups. If you have a coach that needs 12R/22.5’s, install 12R/22.5’s and go back to bed! There is exactly ZERO percent chance that you will find any benefit to a tire of a different size.