John
Forum Replies Created
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3 hours to change an XL windshield????????
I don’t think so. People who have never changed a windshield before have changed them at rallies in 45 minutes at the most.
A person with experience is going to do it in under 30 minutes, and that includes the time to get the ladder, soapy water and the tools.
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Dick,
I changed my dash bulbs to LED and the difference is night and day. I can see the gauges really well at night now and no longer have to squint to read them. Don did a nice write up post on his bulb change here a few years ago. I used a different type of bulb than him but its good info on how to get in there and get it done. If you think this might be a possible solution for you let me know and i will look up the bulb numbers and source. Jeff
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Yes, looks like a great unit.
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Steve, 6 bolts hold the cover down, it will be stuck due to the weatherseal/gasket, so just carefully pry it up. I tried to convince my wife to climb between the fan and turbo, so I would not have to disassemble the cabinet, but she refused. LOL, Hey but she does a great job of ironing my pants and shirts…and packs the bus for trips among other things .
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Sharp R-1874. Here’s a link with before and after pics: LINK
Available at Amazon etc.
I’m Aaron on FB 🙂
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Jon we have never met and I may catch some flack you make a lot of good points and roll with the punches .
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Possibly…would like to follow any plans!
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Jerry, I remember that you mentioned that article last year. Is it available somewhere online yet? You are correct in thinking that my DC loads are pretty light now. Apart from the AC/DC refrigerator, I don’t think I have any really significant DC loads. One thing I haven’t considered is just tying the two house banks together. Easy enough to do. My only concern would be killing twice as many batteries with the refrigerator when I forget to plug shore power in after a drive. I did that last year. I guess a generator auto start would help there too.
The only reason I’m thinking about going “big” with the inverters is because I am exploring using a ducted mini-split setup on the coach. Those all appear to be 240v units, so I think I would need two inverters tied together in phase. My interior doesn’t lend itself to using the wall-mount 120v mini-split systems like some home builders use. I also have the option of sticking with my Cruisairs (two of the three need to be rebuilt), but they draw a lot of current and I’m told not to expect much from them when rolling on a hot highway. Roofairs might work, but I’d have to do some ceiling modifications to prevent loss of headroom. Finish work isn’t my strength.
My primary concern now is whether I can safely use the output of the 50DN to power the inverter(s) on the road. It seems like I have plenty of available capacity, but I don’t want to cause premature failure of the alternator. She’s a little tough to get to under the bedroom. If I can’t count on using or banking a good portion of that 24v 240A output, I’m better off sticking with running the generator for AC loads.
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Jeff at ETLC adjusted our and it is NOT for the faint of heart. It took 2 people, a floor jack and the tiniest movements I have ever seen of the hinge. It seemed like once you have the jack under the door and you begin to loosen the hinge bolt, the chances for screwing up the adjustment skyrockets. Jeff has plenty of practice and it still took several attempts to get it right. Even the next day is was not right again. Another sessions with 2 guys and a jack and the door appeared to move 1,000th of an inch and it was just right.
Be careful with the door as it is very heavy and if it gets too far out it seems like it would be nearly impossible to get it just right again.
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Dick,
I can’t tell you exactly what water they used…I’m sure it was whatever water source they have a Prevost Nashville. The intent of flushing, then running the engine on water is to promote circulation which will dilute the old coolant left in the heater lines down to an acceptable level.
I should have read closer that the conversation wasn’t about non OAT, extended life coolant. I. have never dealt with that, so I’ll back out of this conversation.
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Hello Dave – I am in the exact same situation and purchased Chemical Guys brand. I have had great success with their cleaner just to ensure all clean from the start, and used their UV protectant afterward. From the looks of my old (real) leather, UV protectant is necessary.
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The other reason for the Pass … the pay by plate includes a $2.50 administrative fee per toll, which could be over double the cost of the toll!
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Thanks for the quick responses. Now, how to I get the stainless rivets out and who would have replacements other than Prevost?
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Jon, the generator in our Vantare does not allow for access to the rear . The only way this can be seen or services is to remove . That job took a trained technician 6.5 hrs.
It also appears this genny was built on a Tues or Monday as they say . The black smoke I spoke about , came from 2 missing bolts on the exhaust manifold .
I was joking about a spare . I’m thinking about having it rebuilt and selling as these are not easy to find . In fact the one I found may have been from a old add not removed .
I plan on replacing the water pump , belt and high temp sensor along with air pucks prior to putting her back . Also going to change the set up on the air like marathon however no space to mount the radiator so that will be removed cleaned and serviced . Then with 200 hr service I just might get 20k hours as I should and came close on our last coach prior to selling . We should know more in a few hours if the unit is available . Thanks again for the reply keep them coming 🙂
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So what I did I got a small regulator and now it’s set at 45 psi much better and I used a used 3 port norgren valve, so I tied the control port to the travel port on the 5 port so step is active when the coach is in travel mode, and when your parked the step is inactive, Jim it was not bad removing ram, waiting for kit to rebuild. If you want to call me I can explain, I don’t typr well (805) 712-9449