JIM
Forum Replies Created
-
That is too much right there. Awesome stuff. Now if finding a leak was only that easy.
That might be my new screen saver.
-
Drive up the east side of Flathead to Bigfork and have lunch or breakfast at Pocketsone Cafe. You’ll be a happy camper.
-
Al, you need to add about 25 feet to one of them stalls, I’m comming thru end of Aug and I don’t park outside.
Later
bv
-
I agree w/ Jim/Chris. I have aluminum (which needs to be re-polished) is easier to have. Aluminum is very difficult to plate and it oxidizes so easily, that any chip or physical defect in the plating (which is only a few thousandths thick) will start the oxidation process, which will peel the chrome off in sheets.
There are fewer and fewer platers good enough to re-plate items like these mirrors. The hexavalent chromium process (which gives a brighter-less blueish color) is on the EPA’s “priority pollutant” list. Those that do re-plate will charge a hefty price. Ask for references and request “show chrome”. Hemmings would be a good place to start looking.
-
The shake is from the cheap gear motor that moves the mirror. Getting the mirror glass off separated is a miracle in itself without breaking the glass.
After installing a new Ramco purchased mirror motor (cheap,cheap) and several phone calls the shake was still there. Phone calls to Ramco engineering resulted in send the mirror to us. That done and assured the now factory installed motor, all would be good the mirror still shook the same as my motor change. I even wondered if anything was done other then look at it.
Used a piece of soft pipe insulation to steady the mirror and that is the best change to stop some shake.
Shake results from excessive gear lash on inexpensive plastic gear parts. I did notice the drivers mirror has more shake then the passenger side which Ramco blames on wind forces due to the location.
The plastic gear parts are the problem and Ramco factory is zero help to cure.
-
Great thread. This is the kind of info that is of real practical value. Also very important is the 911 help aspect and the assurance that PC and a big group “has your back” on a timely basis.
-
My opinions were formed when we lived in Western NY and we averaged 240″ of snow annually. In addition during a typical winter sub zero temps were not uncommon, and we usually had a week or two where the morning lows were -20 with day time highs not exceeding -10. So having some protection from the elements was pretty important.
I almost think however that in warmer climates the ability to shelter the coach is even more important. The sun is brutal and very damaging. High humidity can lead to mold, mildew, corrosion, and possible damage to the engine from rust. My greatest concern is high temps inside the coach can cause delamination of the cabinet outer surfaces.
I can easily envision damage that exceeds the cost of sheltering the coach to greatly exceed the cost of repairs to damage from exposure.
We will not own a coach if it cannot be sheltered next to our house.
-
Thanks Ben… Leon told me my vintage build number was before the Sure Power was used and did tell me it would have had a Vanner for the chassis. So as you mentioned, my chassis Vanner got changed out somewhere in the history to a Sure Power.
-
Will do on the slack adjuster Jon. Although at this point I’m not sure getting the impact on it will break my problem nut free.
I ordered a nut splitter from Amazon today. States it only goes to 3/4 inch and I need 15/16. I’m hoping it will be 3/16 oversized – doubtfull. Could not find any that go 1 inch.
-
John,
I could be convinced to sell you my Liberty tool box slide. I have the entire assembly.
-
Call Prevost and ask for the name of a reputable repair facility near your location, I think you are being taken advantage of as one with deep pockets.
1-800-387-7386
JIM
-
Al, no Crestron in my bus that I am aware of, no mention on the build sheet either.
Got some good info into hooking up to the PC and will investigate more.
-
I’m with Jon. We have powerful, long lasting and very quiet generators….use ’em ! Geo.
-
Everybody should keep in mind that each converter has provided the means of enabling us to detect problems. The method provided for indicating a problem is going to vary. It could be a light, or it could be a readout of voltage or some other way for us to realize something is not working as it should.
Our job as owners is to understand how we are “informed” there is a problem because in a lot of instances the information alerting of a problem is not obvious and we realize there is a problem only when the batteries go dead or portions of the system shut down.
As if trying to figure out how to interpret clues to issues is not enough of a difficulty, we as owners also have to interpret if the problem we finally see is related to the chassis or the house. The trouble is we always learn this stuff when something breaks or fails. That seems to be when we figure out the information was available, we just didn’t realize it was there.
Fred’s post is an eye opener for me because I now realize I have a lot of information available to me ranging from voltage gauges, to digital amp and volt readouts, to little LED lights. But I also have a remote panel for the inverters that provides a lot of information but I don’t make looking at that information enough of a part of my scan to make sure everything is working OK. Good post.
-
Everyone uses their coach and its equipment differently, but we use the W/D alot and like being able to do it going down the road. Consequently, we can’t abide a Slendide or a 110v dryer. We like being fresh as daisies and not looking for quarters.