[JIM]

Greg,

What Jim describes is what we all will hear when refilling an air depleted coach using shop air. The noises are associated with all sorts of valves working independently or in concert as the air from the fill point Jim describes works its way through the system and has to satisfy a variety of protection valves before progressing onto the next portion of the system. If the coach is trying to raise up as well (or at least have the air bags pressurized) there will be even more noises as various tanks and air bags are filled and bushings in the suspension go from relaxed to loaded.

But If I understand your post, the only air system being satisfied is the aux air unless your coach enables aux air to back feed into the primary and secondary air system, in which case it is traveling in the wrong direction through protection valves which might attribute to the noise. Without having a set of ears able to focus on the origin, any one of us is just guessing. Keep in mind that when parked there is no air beyond the air tanks and relay valves to your brake chambers, so at least you can rule them out. FWIW Hector and I had a question amongst each other regarding if aux air would fill the brake systems. Apparently on his coach (and maybe others) that is possible, but on my two coaches which were produced on either side of his coach vintage I could not get aux air into the brake systems. When that happens I suspect an issue with protection valves, which really should be checked periodically because of their important contribution to our safety.

[JIM]

Rob,

There is nobody on this planet that can tell you where your coach is leaking air. What every one of us can tell you is that we are all affectedf by air leaks and the only way to attain a coach with an air leak rate that is acceptable to you is to start chasing leaks. I can tell you from chasing leaks for 22 years is I use a tiered process starting with the obvious and working my way up the ladder to identify the most difficult.

Ears……..I use mine as the first attempt to find leaks. When you can hear the leak, it is big and worth fixing.

Soapy water……This is the next step for me. Keep in mind I do not use a scatter gun approach as I get into leak detection but analyze the leak location based on my understanding of the pneumatic system, For example if it keep leaning to the right, I will focus exclusively on the valves and connections associated with the 2 drive and single tag axle air bags on the right rear.

Stethoscope…….This is a good way to “hear” leaks you may not hear with your ears. Again, this is specific to a particular leak and location.

Ultrasonic leak detector……..The benfit to this is is helps me locate leaks internal to valves or at fittings that are otherwise difficult or imposible to detect except for using a bubbler.

Bubbler……..This is a device Hector has shown us and when all else fails hook a bubbler in specific air lines and if the leak is downstream you will see the leak in the form of bubbles in a sight glass (bowl). Leak free means no bubbles. Unlike other methods, when you use the bubbler you are progressively connecting it in line working your way upstream or downstream to isolate leaks. This is the absolute in leak detection, but when you get to this point you have to have a lot of patience and a willingness to check for leaks from connection to connection.

Bottom line, leak detection and repair is important and letting a coach accumulate countless small leaks is a sure way to drive an owner nuts at some point. If your coach settles down in the front that particular leak or series of leaks is isolated to the air bags or connections or Norgren valves associated with the front suspension. It may be the ride height valve for the front is leaking, but when the key is off with a level low system it is not part of the problem you describe.

[JIM]

This community has already been of great help to me. I hope that I can return the favor as I learn more about these coaches.

[JIM]

If anyone wants to know about polishing the SS siding, let me know. I can speak from experience and detail the entire process from learning to the finished product. But lets just says, it is a dirty, filty, mind numbing, whole body energy stealing process that took 90+ manhours of my life permanently away. AND, it’s still not as good as I would like, BUT if it looks like it needs it done in the future, I will hire it done by a pro and gladly pay whatever they ask. I did see on another board, that Jack in Florida has a man who will polish the entire coach for $300. Now he tells me. I spent twice that amount in just supplies to do the polishing, not to mention the forever lost time from my life, but now I am whining!!

Rob

91 XL40

Missouri

[JIM]

1650 hrs. Have run 50 hrs non stop. Run loaded as possible. change oil every 100 hrs, you will never have a problem with the engine side.

[JIM]

Thanks Al…

I’ll get to work on that, see you at Heritage !

Larry

[JIM]

Ditto. While performance mode has its benefits, economy mode is just that, and as the price of diesel heads up the motorhomes that are set with the default being performance are likely to be changed.

The only time I use performance mode is when approaching a hill I know will cost me speed, so I go to performance mode and drop to 5th gear and hammer down. That works well to allow me to hold normal cruise speed, or close to that speed during a long climb. If I leave it in economy mode it will not downshift until the engine is lugging down, at which point all momentum is lost and my hill climbing speed is considerably lower than other traffic

I don’t know if others experience this, but in performance mode the shifts are harsher than in economy mode something that makes it less pleasant for passengers.

[JIM]

Does this site have a button to “mark all forums read”?

JIM

[JIM]

Gary,

I like the Southport/Wilmington area. Went to Fort Caswell several times as a teenager, just a FEW years ago!!!!!! HA! We hope to get back to the Outer Banks soon as well.

Jon,

Thanks for the advice about warming up. I have ordered the Sikaflex and primer from Prevost. Since this is not uncommon, how do I check the other windows??? What should I look for??? I have looked at the install instructions in the service manual and it does not look too difficult.

Thanks for the help!!!!!!

[JIM]

I had mine done in the summer of 2010. I was at the TN service center for some other work and while I was there, they did a complete inspection of the coach, filled out a map of the problem areas, took some pictures and sent it all off to the factory for approval. After a few days I got a call back to schedule the repairs.

I took the coach back later and they did the repairs which took almost a week. I had LOTS of panel delamination so that is what took so long. The guys at the TN service center did a great job!

My repair was no charge to me, but my coach was still under warranty. I don’t know what they will do for someone out of warranty. My advice would be to contact Prevost and ask.

[JIM]

Rick,

Just check the local tv listings for re-runs of the Lennon Sisters, note the time the show ends and then count to 10 and that’s when Jon goes to sleep. The only exception to that rule, is if there is a back to back showing of the Lennon Sisters and Lawrence Welk, just adjust your time accordingly.

[JIM]

That’s a shame to hear Zip Dee is not standing behind the newer awnings. All I have ever had has been manual Zip Dee’s and they are the best in the industry, IMO.

I did have a piece of junk electric awning on a plastic CC from Colorado and I wouldn’t put one of those on my riding mower.

[JIM]

Was it cracked Les or just needing adjustment?

[JIM]

Jerry,

You should have the best !!!!