Jerry
Forum Replies Created
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Since the question seems to have been answered, I’ll intrude to give a shout out to my bling impaired brotha Ron Walker. I love what I see in the thumbnail of your post. Compaired to mine, yours has bling… You have color! Heck, mine ain’t even a Prevost. Hope to see you on the road.
Bryan
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I just purchased 2014 Gmc Sierra four wheel drive with transfer case with neutral I have been towing 2011 Gmc four wheel drive the 2014 has locking steering wheel General Motors sent me a buliton that requires key put in. Acc then disconnect neg bat cable I will lose all mem on radio phone seat I would like to know of another way together around this I called dealer to see if he could take out steering plate that locks it have not got any thing back from them I wonder if any one has a solution thanks Busman
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I ran the covering for years on my 8v92TA on the manifolds,pipe and turbo I never saw any signs of rust and they do help with the turbo boost on a 8v92 fwiw
good luck
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Bill & Family,
Glad to hear you are at Buckhorn.
Enjoy your stay and have a Merry Christmas.
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Greg,
found this number for Ted on line:
530-473-5544
Hope this helps… Good luck!
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What would you call it then? There are gaszillion articles about algae in fuel and treatment. I’ve had it in the past and it’s black and slimmy.
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Robert,
That black gook is algae…
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Personally, I would find it hard to trade genuine Prevost OTR air conditioning for the few cubic feet of space that a couple of slide outs provide.
To me OTR air conditioning is one of the things that sets a Prevost bus apart from any number of similar sized plastic coaches.
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If Driver’s air is Dash air, every coach in America has Driver’s air.
The name is what I found confusing as there is probably not a coach built today that doesn’t have dash air. It’s like saying the coach has a steering wheel.
Truk, I don’t mind not having OTR air as we don’t have it now and I want four slides. Our ‘driver’s air’ works fine until about 90-95 degrees (depending how long the drive is for the day), I’ll turn on the genny and run the roof air to keep us cool. At that time, I will have to cut the air speed down on the ‘driver’s air’ as the coach starts to cool down.
I would assume a new Liberty with four roof air conditioners and ‘driver’s air’ will cool just fine.
MM.
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Regarding tire pressures when driving.
If the tires start out cold at the pressure recommended based on the weights they carry, it is always going to result in a pressure increase. As the tire rotates and flexes it generates heat. On an 80 degree day it is not unusual for me to measure 135 degrees at the center of the tread and a fairly significant pressure increase. But as soon as the tires cool to ambient the pressures will fall to the proper pressure.
Since measuring pressure after running at highway speeds a few hours is a useless exercise, I use the heat gun mentioned previously to see if all temps are consistent. Even though I start out with different pressures the thing that always amazes me is if I check all the tire pressures fairly quickly they are all usually within 5 degrees of one another. Only when one is out of line do I get concerned. I think stopping and going around the coach to check tire temps is a good way of insuring all is good, plus it is a good way to move a little bit after sitting in one spot for a while.
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David, Dave’s post was right on. You can add Ben Cumming and Rick May to the list of know hows for Vantare. They have extensive knowledge and experience with that conversion. They are at Parliament in Clearwater, Fl. I don’t know where you are located, but between Clearwater and Sanford(90mi) there is all the support you need. We have just purchased an H series Vantare and had Ben and Rick do the inspection. BTW Brad at The Motorcoach Store in Bradenton has a very nice 01 H Vantare, We looked at that coach pretty thoroughly and almost bought it.
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Like Wave said, lets keep the communication coming.
Mine does not shut down the Mach 5 when hitting full, I did it just today. The tank sentry was showing full red and the pump would still run.
Somebody call Troy…..
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The green light stays on anytime the HWH is off, which is “travel” mode. If I turn any other button on, then the green light goes out, and the Level Low light on dash comes on. I cannot turn the breaker off, it is a push button breaker, but I cannot trip it. It will not pull out like an airplane. So as the picture shows, it is off.
Jon, I cranked the bus, put it on high idle, let the air build up and measured the height from ground to the bottom rail of bay in front of drive axle. It was 12″. I then flipped the lever on the tag axle dump, and the tag dumped pressure, the bus lowered in the rear, and the measurement went down to 10″. I let the bus run for a while, and it did not raise up any, just stayed there. I went back and flipped the lever back, and the tag restored air, and the bus raised back up to the 12″ i had earlier. Should it have raised back up?
The one thing that I noticed different tonight was, during the last week that I have been working on this, I have aired the bus up each time with shop air, all the way to 125lbs. Every time I do that, I hear an air leak under the bus that sounds like it is coming from the area of the air dryer.
So tonight, I put a little shop air in to tighten the belts, disconnected shop air, and cranked the bus to do the above checks. What is different now, when I shut the bus off, I hear NO air leaking under the bus like I have every time with using shop air.??
So is there some valve that may have been fooled, or open by the shop air, that closes with bus air? I don’t know, but guess I will find out in the morning if it’s still up.
I had even made an appointment for Monday with a local truck shop to use their pit to find the leak I have been hearing. My wife has heard it each time, and now she doesn’t hear it either (figured I needed a witness).
So, guess I’ll wait another day to see what it does overnight.
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Les, I agree and we rarely get an opportunity to open our gray water valve. But there have been venues where dumping gray water is allowed and encouraged.
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Dean,
The Headhunter does not use a macerator, the waste is turned to liquid by the jet force of the flushing water. You can rig up anything that works for you with the gray water by-pass, but for us it’s a non issue when at a campground, you just have to dump the tank often, especially if your usng the washer/dryer.
You could also add a water house fitting at the sewer end connection and hook your hose there for your by-pass water.
Make sure you have good tight fittings with your sewer hose, because when you open that single tank valve, lots of water and pressure is coming your way due to volumm.
You also have a macerator build in to your Liberty. I had to replace the pump, but it works great and that’s another option if you don’t want to deal with the big hose