Hisham
Forum Replies Created
-
While we can take any of our three toads, I leave all of them home at every opportunity.
The extra 15 or 20 feet means more care has to be taken when passing. With a toad 4 wheels down you cannot back up. It is just more to wash or dust when you tow one. It has a small impact on mileage and possibly stopping distances although I cannot say I have ever tested stopping distances with or without one.
-
Like Dan & Judy said the no rally rally was a complete success… thanks to all who showed up and a very special thank you to Pres & Betty they went beyond the call of duty… everything was perfect !
We were lucky enough to get a royal tour of the area from Jeff & Jackie… thanks so much for that guys… you were both awesome.
Such a great area to visit can’t wait to go back again.
We enjoyed meeting everyone and hope to get together again soon.
I have some pics and hope to post them soon when I get back home.
Cheers and safe travels all. Diane
-
I thought that was used to hold Tom’s new slides in when the hand crank broke.
How’s that slide install going , Tom?
-
Hish, Send a picture of that piece to my email or post it so I can see what you have. Just interested because I’d like to see how special it really is.
-
Hish, if you are talking about the flexible orange or red tubes with the steel rings around them they can be found on line. They are generic however the ones from the turbo to the charge air cooler are on the “hot side” so they need a rating of 500 degrees. They are typically paired with blue tubes or couplings that are rated at 350 degrees for the cold side or the side from the charge air cooler discharge.
The Prevost Blue colored ones are rated at 500 degrees however that is not a continuous limit but one that is allowable a small percentage of the time. I have read my turbo outlet temps when the EGR is functioning and the boost is as high as 50 PSI, and the temp is at 500 degrees so if you do buy generic couplings make sure you understand the specs on them.
-
I did check the capacitor and it did show defective, I will order one today, I’m glad I don’t have to remove the whole condenser thanks everyone
Darrell -
Here is a 2015 DD brochure about: Coolants, filters, etc
http://www.todaystrucking.com/images/DetroitDieselCoolants7se2981.pdf -
I didn’t mean “just start it”. I just meant I won’t run it more than once a month this time a year. Last week I had to drive it to the DMV- that’s 16 mikes away, and it idled while in the inspection lane so it received some exercise. I’ll do something similar next month ( but steer clear of the dmv for sure!)
i always make sure the generator gets good exercise at least once a month as well with a full load. – that is actually tough to do on a 20kw!!
-
If you decide to unhook the gas cylinders to move the pivot point to another hole or install a more powerful cylinder, be VERY, VERY CAREFUL. If the cylinders are not fully extended and you pull the bolt out of the hole, the end of the shaft will explode into your face. Very dangerous if not done correctly. Make sure the bay door is raised fully to the top of its travel before you pull the bolt out.
-
Pres did a very nice job and it is definitely a way to go.
In his setup, access to the rear of the heaters to monitor heat exchangers connections is tough, on my coach , not so. I can put water heaters with rear heat exchagers loops with no problem., which makes the front less cluttered…..
The question now is…..which brand to choose…
Kuuma (Camco) makes the 11 gal water heater with both front and rear heat exchager, the Whale Seaward brand has 11 Gal in both rear or front HE configurations, aluminum, white epoxy or stainless cover, and Atwood makes the new EHM11-SM with only front heat exchanger ports…. no more EHP-10 with rear HE ports for some reason. I have a call into Atwood to find out why.
All these units can all be found in various places from 300-450 depending on outside cover and brand, some places offer free shipping, some not etc.
Any factual data that shows one brand is better than the other with these new products ? Any one in particular to stay away from because of problems ?
Reviews on the net are not helping much from what I could read and gather….so back to you Gurus
-
Our cover can definitely be put on with the switches 180 degrees from the off position. However, since we don’t use the cooktop when driving, it is not an issue.
-
Fred…thanks. I’ve $tayed at Marathon many time$. I’m heading south so that would be an extra 2 hours and 15 minutes minimum to drive to unhook at Marathon, drive to Clearwater, back to Marathon, and then south past Tampa again to continue my trip south down I-75. I’m looking for place where I can unhook the toad close to where I turn west from I-75 to Clearwater so I’m not going so far out of my way yet not have to drive the bus and toad thru Tampa and Clearwater.
-
The year of your Liberty would be very helpful for folks to be more specific, so here’s a basic answer.
You have 3 coach heat sources, kick heaters (cadet), heat pumps and Webasto. The Webasto sends hot coolant to the heat exchangers, hot water heater and the engine for pre heat. The Webasto is diesel fired and uses the engine coolant as the heat source. The heat pumps in your cruiseairs are good down to about 40 degree’s, then will shut down. The kick heaters like the heat pumps are electric and a good source for heat assuming you have shore power or running the gen. If you’re dry camping and not running the gen, the Webasto being 12v is your only option.
You have various methods to operate and control the heat sources, SMX controls and thermostats, but the year of your conversion would be needed for more specific info from folks with like years.
-
The more I think about this the more it seems something doesn’t add up.
Those of us that have a lot of year’s experience with our batteries know that your 8 batteries will take a long time to discharge with light or no loads. With phantom loads, the refrigerator, use of some lights and the inverters on, but no incoming 120V power from shore or generator your at-rest starting voltage is going to be around 12.8 volts and by morning is going to be 12.4 or 12.5 at the least.
You have never mentioned a lengthy charge time required to get to float voltage. If you had a large current draw or a bad battery such as one with an internal short, it would take an excessive amount of time to get to float.
I think Mikee has a very good suggestion, but if you don’t have the ability to measure the amperage draw at the very least stop any draw by disconnecting the batteries from the chassis and monitor voltages. Keep in mind the voltages at float are likely going to be over 13 volts, but the resting voltage after the surface charge has gone is going to be near 12.8. That is not a voltage loss. That is normal.
-
Prayers for both Phil & Joanne and your Sophie. Ditto on needing anything.