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Dan, I would take your advice but I haven’t figured out how to start the engine yet!!

Mark, I would love to not park under trees, but there’s not too many options up here in the summer. Florida in the winter is no problem. I tried the broom thing. Really think the blower idea would be easier/better and I’d be less likely to fall off the ladder.

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I dont know where to get one of those cool caps Ron but that story is disturbing. Did they cut the chain?

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Don’t forget: To the best of our knowledge, no separation has actually resulted in a tire failure.

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Thanks. I agree the non driven wheels are where they should be with the proper oil level. How exactly would I add oil on the red cap if I needed to do that? Does the cap come off or do you add via the four holes in the center.

On the drive axle the bolt at the top. What is that for? I assumed it was a way to check and fill or is that something for service people only. Possibly a vent when lube is added from below to insure filling ?

wave

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Count me in do I need to make reservation

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This one is on our map Chris.

We didn’t stay here … tried to buy they were full. Nice little RV Resort. Great location across I-10 from Wild Horse Pass Casino and Motorsports Complex (the old Firebird Raceway).

The Motorcoach Resort of Wild Horse Pass 1576 South Nelson Drive Chandler, AZ 85226 480-639-1507 https://www.themotorcoachresort.com/ Submitted By: Dick in Wisconsin Add A Comment View Comments

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I’ve been working on the paint removal 1 side done 1 side to go. Door and tail light bezel.

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Harry, If you talk to this guy, sign him up for PC membership. Just be sure he sends his dues check to me. :O)

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I agree with Tom and Al. I’ve bought two enclosed trailers from Tom and Jerry Mueller of Random Lake, WI who were a top five Pace Trailer dealer for decades, are now #1 or #2 nationwide for Bravo, sell more than 200 trailers a year (from light to utility trailers to 32′ stackers, and have hauled race cars all over the country in 24′ to 32′ enclosed trailers when they raced USAC, ARCA, and NASCAR Cup and Trucks.

The Muellers and my experiences have taught me a few things about trailering vehicles I wouldn’t have figured out on my own.

1. X the tie down straps on something close to a 45 degree angle. That puts the D-rings in the trailer far out and the fastening point on the frame as far out as possible. All of my race cars have had hooks for tie down welded into the frame. If the X is too flat (or you have the straps in line with the vehicle), its possible for the vehicle to move from side to side as it goes down the road, especially if you fasten the straps to the axles versus the frame.

2. Check how the D-rings are attached to the trailer frame. Expect the D-Rings to bolts to a gusset (large 1/4″ to 3/8″ plate would be best) that is welded to frame. They should be fastened more securely than just bolted to bed of the trailer.

3. Do you tow with the Jeep in gear (manual) or in park (automatic)? You’ll notice that as you travel, the web straps will have a tendency to stretch. Everytime you stop see if you can put another click in them. Before you get that click in them, the Jeep will move just a little bit … enough to not be good for the manual trans or the parking brake pahl. I ALWAYS tow with the race car in neutral.

4. I tow enclosed, you tow open. The straps will be subject to lots of sun, rain, and road dirt and debris. When you put new tires on the trailer, consider getting new straps. The material the straps are made of probably get better every decade, but I wouldn’t trust them being outside often over a long period of time.

5. I’ve only had two tire problems in all the trailer towing I’ve done. First was a left rear tire on an open tandem axle trailer. Front tire picked up a small piece of steel (like flat clip) and propelled it neatly into the face of the back tire creating an 1″ wide slit across the face of the tire. Second time I was coming back to Grafton from Blackhawk Farms Raceway (2:15 trip), it was late, stopped for gas, fortunately it was really quiet, and I could hear an air leak. Had nail in the face of the back tire. Pumped it up to 60# at the station and limped that last 30 minutes home. In both of these situations, I think the thing in the tire was caused by the tandem axle. With Pressure Pro, you should know within a minute or so when you have a tire problem.

I find your draw bar very interesting. I like the tongue weight scale, I have a small tongue scale I bought from Joe Martin’s Sherline Industries before he passed away. Knowing the weight of the tongue is important for a SUV or pickup, but probably less for our coaches. I’ve considered similar drawbars to what you have, but have been concerned about how close the down piece might get to the road, especially when crossing a high railroad track, or going in and out of driveway with a deep gutter.

I’ve never thought about trailer components (axles, bearings, etc.) in the same negative vein that Jon does. Trailers are build to haul stuff, whether it be yard waste, lawn mowers, race cars and huge amount of support equipment, or Jeeps with 35″ off road tires. If the word got out that a particular trailer manufacturer’s axles and bearing couldn’t handle the rated load, that would be the KISS OF DEATH to the trailer manufacturer in the racing community, especially with social media. I try to buy quality stuff (and pay for it) when I think its warranted … like the Jamestown Industries shore power box the coach is plugged into on the side of the race shop. I paid more than competing products, but it has NOT let me down and there has been NO corrosion on it in four years. But maybe Jon has more insight into what goes into stuff since he was in the manufacturing business.

I’m still trying to figure out what Al is referring.

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Tks Tom. Called him many times on other issues, but know he`s really busy. Was just thinking someone might of encountered this. will call Ben though. Thanks All. Will report find and hope it helps someone down the road.

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One of the more troubling aspects of driving the coach is traffic merging onto the highway from a ramp. I will liberally use the air horn (short blasts) if it looks like the merging traffic won’t get out ahead of me or is too fast to fall behind me and I can’t move over into the other lane. Only once have I used the air horn, checked up, let a guy in-front of me only to have him dynamite the brakes and slow down to 15mph on a 55mph expressway.

Most of the time the daydreaming drivers slow down and try to fall in behind me, sometimes they’ll accelerate out in front of us and cause no problem.

On our first coach trip to Florida we had a car merging onto the Interstate on a bridge where the merging lane was really short and had semis to the left. I gave a couple of short blasts to the air horn and the car sat just behind the steer tires. She was running out of merge lane and I could see in the mirror she was moving closer to the bus. I went continuous air horn. She stayed right with me and drove onto the shoulder as she disappeared in the blind spot. Then I could see her driving from the shoulder down into the shallow ditch and stopping; the ditch looked awfully rough.

I’ve concluded there is probably little we can do to protect ourselves from oblivious drivers who when faced with an unanticipated situation make one bad decision after another.

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RVCAMS.COM Great folks. Will get you the hardware you need and the instructions for replacement. Great support. They were actually able to match me up with color system that could be used with the original wiring in my 1988 CC. It didn’t look right after doing the wiring and one call showed me the error of my ways. I now have an awesome backup camera setup without running a single new wire.

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I have gotten an alignment only when I felt it necessary.

Your fingers are very sensitive and I feel the tread on my tires routinely. Things you still cannot see such as a wear pattern from bad toe in or caster can be felt as a feathering of the tread. If the tire is not wearing true you can feel it long before you can see it.

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Jimmy, in California, by state law, you must cross the safety chains as you described, or you will receive a piece of paper with the officer’s signature and that will cost you $.

From an engineering standpoint, as you turn, both of the chains will actually slack whereas if they are connected straight, the outside chain in a turn will tighten and possibly result in damage to something if connected too tight initially.

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Below I have some pictures and a crude drawing of the weather strip that I am looking for. The dimensions on the drawing are close approximations.

Im looking for some insight as to what is out there that might work. Has anybody had some work done that includes replacing these weather strips?

Thanks.