Ed
Forum Replies Created
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Go to your Prevost Wiring Diagrams and look up C535 in the connector section. It will tell you what the system is. Its is
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It was in the purge valve on the air dryer.
Zoom in and look at the 6 O’clock position on the purge valve. There is a small piece of O-ring lodged in the exhaust valve.
one of the internal O-rings dried up and pieces we’re breaking off and lodging in the discharge valve.
Rebuild kit resolved the issue.Chuck
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My bus air was cycling off and on, Prevost determined it was the controller. New controller was ordered and installed, it froze up the dash and caused the low PSI alarms to go off falsely. Turns out the NO bus air controller was installed in a Bus air unit causing the short. Prevost did stand behind their mistake and replaced the dash and installed the correct controller.
Chuck
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Just bought (4) roof top 15,000 btu units heat pumps (2) new thermostats removing the old units & installed out the door with tax labor everything $91870 glad they wasn’t crusiair would have to sell the farm. Crusiair pure junk, these are a little noisier but at least I don’t have to take a water hose and wet down the asphalt under the bus to stop high head pressure. They will cool. I have owned 4 different buses with crusiair 2 liberty’s 1 marathon 1 silver eagle and 4 more with roof tops so I am not a newbie, I can tell you stories about crusiair
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Got ya. Thanks
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LOL, I will go back and read up.
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When I have bus parked in barn I always shut the charging off on one of my Magnum 2812 inverters, They will never sink on the charging, They are suppose to go into full charge drop to around 12.8 v then float around 13.2v but with both on they will never do that. That’s the only time I do that. I like the easy controls on the Magnums when I park some were with only a 15amp cord I shut charging down on 1 inverter and the other I set shore on 5 amps the keep batteries charged.
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Greasing the calipers the wrong way with the wrong grease can do that.
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That is a really cool idea, i wonder how much internal cabin space it takes up on travel days.
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#1. M&G if it fits your toad. #2. Air Force One. We’ve had both (and a Blue Ox Patriot which I’d never use again). IMHO it must connect to the bus air supply. The inventor of M&G said that our Wrangler ‘grew’ to the equivalent of 80K pounds in an emergency braking situation. You get what you pay for.
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I have never collected data on charge cycles on my house batteries, and I could never predict their life because at 5 years my house batteries were replaced with new ones.
But I also never used autostart which tends to take the DOD down to a very low level. My batteries in all but extremely rare situations were always charged when batteries were at 50% or above.
I now have LiFePo4 house batteries and since they provide more available power than my previous AGM I am likely well above 50% when they get recharged. According to the charts and curves provided by a number of Li battery providers I should get about 30 to 40 years of life, something I should never say out loud because it doesn’t seem right
I am doing everything by the book. My Li batteries are in a heated compartment so they have never been below 50 degrees. When being charged the charge rate is modest compared to the rate allowed by the manufacturer. Additionally my Outback inverters are set for “silent mode” which means when at 100% the inverters stop bulk and absorb charging and go into float mode and then are not provided with any charge at all until they get to 25.2 or 25.4, at which time the inverters go back to float charge until they reach about 26.6 or 26.8. As long as the coach is not being used and is stored the Li batteries are stored in an ideal range.
I like the Li a lot but I will never tell anyone I made the choice for financial reasons. When I bought them it made no financial sense, other than I saved a lot of weight and in exchange got batteries that still had a SOC well above 505 even with all normal house stuff working like the refrigerator, water pump, aux compressor, etc on all night.
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Just curious what the axle load is on your steer axle? It appears that the Dunlop tire rating fitted to the wheel has an ISO rating of 150 L, which is 7,390 lbs at 75 mph, at 120 psi (cold).
The shininess of the metallic cables indicates that the tire was slowly fatiguing, over time. That is to say, the rubber that had once encased the cables had worn away. It wasn’t a, “I ran over a railroad tie” moment, but a “I am tired and I’m going to fall apart” one…. the tread probably came off as one big alligator.
I’m glad that you were able to control your rig and you stayed on the road.
I don’t sell TPMS, so I have no skin in this game, but the advantage to having a TPMS system that also tells you pressure and temperature is that the temperature can be a pre-indicator that something is going on, at the wheel end. The increase in temperature should be, at normal operations, about ambient plus 60 degrees F.
Indicators like outside climate (Phoenix), types of pavement can change the rule of thumb, but it’s a good starting point. If temperatures are running hotter than that, then it’s a good time to double check other factors (i.e. Are you speeding? Is your cold pressure enough for the actual load?, How are your brake systems and/or wheel bearings?). While you are running, if there is a rapid increase in pressure or tire temperature , there IS a reason why, and you should slow down immediately. As soon as feasible, get off the highway and give the tires a chance to cool. And with that being said, it is important that you don’t immediately approach the tire and start poking around…. when you stop, the tire needs to naturally cool before you check pressures (we say 3 hours).
Tires are like elephants; they remember what happened to them from day 1. If there was a time when the tires was overloaded (or underinflated), or when it ran beyond it’s speed rating, the damage will stay hidden in the casing. You can’t reverse the damage.
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Thanks!
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Good luck! Please post pictures of the operation…