Dan
Forum Replies Created
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I have zero opinion regarding the plus or minus of keeping a refrigerator running or not. But I am certain the coach interior is going to suffer badly if it is allowed to get excessively hot.
I am not talking about an interior that may be in the nineties, but one that sees temps above that. Contact adhesive is used to bond a laminate to the wood core (or foam). When a laminate has to be removed heat is applied and the contact adhesive releases the bond.
I don’t know at what temp that happens or how long or how often it has to happen, but I do know we could remove the entire surface of a laminated plastic desktop just by playing an electric heat gun across the surface and once we lifted an edge we just worked the gun along the section still adhering and in very little time the entire desktop laminate was removed.
If a coach has had that issue it might be possible to re-adhere the vitricor or laminated plastic but it will never be perfect.
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Where is it leaking air from, the Norgren valve or a line? There is a ball valve very close by that you can close to keep any air from going to the Norgren or the door. You would just have to operate the door manually with that ball valve closed.
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My 97 had the relays 78 and 79 but since I don’t have it the only way I would know which breakers were for the clutch would be to go to the wiring diagrams. On the road now and not going to take the time.
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Hi guys,
I’m happy to say I’ve not seen an oil slick, drips, drops or puddles under my bus. I run my bus at high idle for 10 to 15 minutes as I perform inside and outside checks.
I’ve not really been stuck in traffic for any amount of time but it’s been my understanding you can stay at low idle unless there’s a change in temperature. It is also my understanding that you allow the engine to low idle for a minute before shutting down. Any disagreement with any of that?
Harry
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I looked…nothing there or any other compartment below in this H3-45….starting to wonder if the transfer switch(s) is (are) an internal part of the inverters as everything runs through them in the Vantare conversions…..not like the other converters.
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First thanks to everyone for their help and information. It was all very helpful and educational for me.
As it turns out there was no massive failure, but each inverter does have separate issues. As I thought the charger function on unit 1 did fail on the trip, as I look back I should have realized it was on its way out sooner.
Tom, you were correct. The fan on unit 2 did fail and coupled with the Texas heat, shut down on the afternoon of the last day home. I am a 12volt system and my Lifelines are working as new.
David, thanks for your great connection information and your generous offer of the chargers. Based on your information I purchased the Noco Genius and so far it’s quite a tool. If you could ever use some more hands, don’t hesitate to call.
Joe, great memory you have and you were right on the fan.I did purchase the Guest, but would never have thought to use it. Luckily I found a portable that was perfect but brilliant suggestion.
Jeff, I too was very concerned something else was going on when nothing would charge, but kept getting back to the inverters themselves. I know Tom would never let a cell in those Lifelines be the cause and it was just too damn hot to take the necessary steps to find out. I kept trying all manor of combinations and learned unit 2 charger would function perfectly if I kept it cool enough. Blue ice and a fan make some nice air but even that only kept the unit cool enough for a short time. After you guys educating me enough to get some constant charge going analysis got easier.
Jon, I do have the 50DN and it is in working order. I thought I had learned that was how you could always charge in an emergency. Like you and Jeff I couldn’t accept everything going at once. When the batteries were charged but not to float level I tried unit 2 charger and it worked without problem, batteries went to float and all normal. I removed the external charger and turned unit 2 off. Tried to charge with the generator and got nothing. Generator off, cranked the motor, got nothing. Turned unit 2 on and charging perfectly. So my coach has to have at least one inverter charging function on for any power sources to charge the batteries. It seems like this shouldn’t be true, but I have now found it it the CC literature. In my case each inverter shut down for different reasons which meant no charging from any source. The inverter function of each unit continued to function at all times. Batteries now in float and all sources charging again so long as the charger function is on.
Tuesday the inverters have an appointment to be checked out completely . Repair or replace, I should be back in business by the weekend.
PC to the rescue again. Thanks to everyone. Drinks on me !!
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All of us are trying to help the person who started this thread, and I have to admit to a degree of frustration because he has been silent and we have no clue what is going on.
This entire web site was set up so Prevost owners could get the benefit of our combined knowledge relating to our coaches. One of the benefits is when any of us has a question we now have the collected knowledge and experience of over 3500 members. I admit is is very difficult to diagnose or analyze a problem on the internet and when a question is asked, the quality of the responses is often dependent upon the information provided. That makes the questioner and responders carry a certain burden.
Questioners need a lot of information to provide accurate responses and there might be some posts following the question that need a response to isolate the cause of a problem and suggest a fix.
Responders have the burden of trying to put all the information that is available together so their answers have some validity and are not all over the map.
But a thread can be pretty much just a collection of anecdotes if there is no feedback such as this thread has become. To the person that made the first post: can we get an update or some response to questions? We all learn from these threads and all questions are important, but if responses are met with silence we don’t know any more than what was in the first post.
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Keep in mind however there could be some polishing required after the paint is removed. This is true of the new paint scheme differs from the original.
Taking paint from a set of rear doors and polishing them if needed is hard work, but is nothing compared to the effort required if the paint has to be removed from the side skins. Polishing and blending on the larger surfaces is a job that requires skill and care, especially on an XLII with bonded skins. The heat from polishing can not only buckle the stainless and really screw up the appearance, it may contribute to delamination.
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Isn’t it a smart thing to routinely inspect a coach beofre driving it? My old coach may not have all the goodies or a new one, but there is a lot goingon and I don’t want to be on the highway when it quits.
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Here is bulb specs for an XL1, I put the wrong tail light bulbs in when I first got the coach and it poped the breaker for the tail lights to many watts and CP candle power
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I can attest to the value of the Progressive Industries EMS model.
My bus is parked in a bus barn, which receives power through an on site transformer (service from overhead on utility right of way is underground to transformer). Duke Energy is the provider.
My bus has an alarm that chimes when shore power is interrupted or cut off. Over the last two months, I found the alarm chiming on about three occasions, but the bus was receiving power. The Progressive unit was showing 119-121 volts on each leg of the 50 amp service. No stored error codes were displayed.
Meanwhile, over the last few months, I have experienced unexplained electrical failures in the barn. A one year old microwave “died.” My security system suffered a “fried” circuit board. Three metal halide bulbs in overhead lighting blew, almost simultaneously.
I attributed these issues to lightning strikes, which are very common this time of year.
On Saturday morning, I found the shore power alarm chiming in the bus. I checked the Progressive Industries unit. It showed 137-152 volts on leg one, fluctuating every few seconds. It showed an average of 108 volts on leg two, but the voltage dipped to 87 volts on several occasions. Thank goodness that the PI unit cut the power to the bus.
After about six hours, the power stabilized and I restored power to the bus.
Duke Energy was rather incompetent in responding to my complaints, and it took three visits to the property and me raising hell to finally figure it out. The transformer box had been invaded by ants, and the ants and their dirt mound had compromised the neutral on the buss in the transformer. Duke repaired the transformer and all is good.
The PI unit protected the bus as designed, and the voltage monitoring feature enabled me to determine that something was wrong with the service to the barn. It also helped me persuade the Duke Energy engineer that my problems were not caused by a lightning strike.
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What are you intending to do with the two holes at the bottom of each light stack? Add a light or fiberglass close the holes?
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Ron – Your in style with the Marathon, Tim is probably just smiling reading this.
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I agree with Tom and am blown away that such a check was not the first thing on the list.
Having said that however I would not dump all the responsibility for pushing you into a new fan clutch when the other one was likely OK. Fan clutch replacement has been often reported on this forum and I have replaced 2 so I am aware as is Prevost that the quality of their purchased components sometimes sucks. All of us know about lousy mirrors, lousy charge air coolers and lousy fan clutches so with the fan clutch having such a lousy service history it almost forgive the Prevost technician for not making such a basic check of the relay.
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$15,000 to $20,000 grand wow, that’s almost as much as Jeff charges for inspection.
I’m note sure why I’d consider switching over to 134A? I know I’ll get some flack for adding “The Bus did just fine going down the road with the gen on and the air conditioners running”! I will find out why it’s not working however?
I don’t like having something on the bus that’s not working. But I’m not spending another $20 grand to fix something I can work around. Unlike you guys I’m a PPO, “Prevost Piker Owner”! Some of you even drive around with a series 60 engine… What’s that about?
Harry