[Bob]

Al,

I noted that the one at Barrett was a 2006 auction, before the fit hit the shan with the economy. Personally even at my advancing age, I do not recall these units; my suspicion is that the one I posted was designed for the 1939 Chicago Worlds Fair. Looks to me that the second one may have been used for GM’s Motorama with that CC deck affair.

The 1939 model’s interior looks like it was designed for lap dances, lots of chrome, velvet benches, funky lighting and is equipped with a powerful gasoline engine (130 HP, probably a 216″ Chevy/GMC), dual front and rear wheels and apparently Alcoa wheels have been added vice steel wheels and baby hub caps as shown on the 1950.

Any event, both of these coached are interesting and I do know the older one is available….wonder if it has power steering or its simply 130 turns lock to lock.

That H3 60 is also interesting, best guess it was some kind of a mobile gambling house or a dialysis center, lots of leather chairs stuffed into the slide outs……both are, to say the least, interesting rides.

[Bob]

I have used the Spotless Di systems for 5 years, works great and there customer support is the best as well. It took Jon forever to get slides too. He will come to use a Di system soon enough.

[Bob]

I have a CR Spotless DI system. It has revolutionized washing my vehicles. Hard to believe, but there is no need to dry anything, even a black car and glass.

I set mine up on a low power electric pressure washer that really only provides a fine mist of water, but enough to reach the high parts. This unit in no way can provide a stream strong enough to damage anything. It is really a way to provide good coverage of water without consuming mass quantities of the expense DI water.

A quick rinse down with DI water, soapy wash down with quality auto soap and a super-soft brush on a pole, thorough rinse with DI water and DONE!

It is also noteworthy that while getting a great wash and rinse, you do not use that much water. I find it efficient for my DI media, but those who are motivated by conservation would like it too.

Wish there was room for one in the bays, maybe on the next bus…

[Bob]

I used to adjust my car brakes so that there was a slight drag noise when spinning the wheels. Is this the same for the bus or should you have no drag at all.

[Bob]

More great advice from Bob. But Glen, just be certain however you adjust the slack adjuster you never ever put any part of your body in a position where you could be pinched or crushed if the bus were to drop. If you cannot be assured you are safe support the coach at the body support points.

One Newell owner was in The Great Outdoors in Titusville with his Newell, outside his coach, and without warning an air bag burst (exploded?) and the coach dropped. Don’t take a chance.

[Bob]

Glen,

I think you have manual slack adjusters and no parking brake on the tag. If you can get the bus over a pit you can adjust the brakes very easy yourself. It will save you a lot of fuel.

See if this helps. All you need is a 9/16″ wrench. It will take less than a minute.

http://prevostcommunity.com/PDF/Slack%20Adjusters.pdf

[Bob]

I am curious what Robert told you was the problem vs. what they actually did at Nashville…. Did the people in Nashvill not do what he said and only adjust the limit switch?

[Bob]

Having changed an air bag or two and taken advantage of the opportunity to change Norgrens, shocks and occasionally brake chambers Tom is on his way to renewing the underside of his coach.

It is very common for discussions on this site to talk about the leans, hub seal leaks, air leaks, etc. If Tom documents this as he does the work I hope everyone that has always wanted to be able to do work like this or understand what is involved can follow the thread and hopefully gain the confidence to know anyone can do this work.

I am not trying to minimize the effort Tom is going to make to do this work, but to point out if you have a place to work, have the means to support the coach (don’t even think of doing this without suports), have a selection of basic tools and some time you can do the same. While the XLII has the hinged rear fenders making this much easier than an XL, anyone can work on any model including the XL or the H3.

When all is said and done Tom’s biggest and most challenging problem is going to be verifying his work is leak free. He will have worked on a lot of fittings, most of which he should replace with new compression fittings. Everything else will be fairly basic.

[Bob]

My axle is different than Glens, but my tag ran hot after a wheel seal replacement for about 300 miles, than settled down and the temps were the same. I attributed it to maybe a slight change from the tech attempting to remove the caliper, not necessary on the newer wheels to change out a wheel seal. The temp was about 50 degree’s higher while it ran hot.

Then, 2500 miles later the same wheel started leaking again. Found out the wheel was not tightened properly, the first time. It’s critical to get the big nut tightened properly followed up with a dial indicator for runout.

[Bob]

Not sure we are being fooled but, we rmay be utilizing them incorrectly. I have a UTB (Unified Tow Brake) system. At the time I bought it, it was highly rated and is supported by Monaco and others. That being said, the system is adjustable and monitorable from the coach drivers seat. UTB advises to set the system to 5 (50%) but I have it at 3-4 (30-40%). I set it below 50% because if the toad brakes come on prior the coach brakes, toad tires will wear rapidly. The trick is to get the toad brakes to slow the car just a bit less than the coach. I’m not sure how to get that kind of adjustment. Of course a 50,000 lbs Prevost has enough braking power that it probably doesn’t even feel the toad during a stop. I’ve made a couple of emergency stops that resulted in most of the bedroom being implanted on the front windshield and the toad and towbar stood up well (I didn’t hit anything either). My thought is that blowing through a traffic light is more a matter of driving style rather than the braking system. Until I learned how to position my foot on the brake pedal, for maximum leverage, I too had problems stopping. I don’t think it was the UTB’s fault.

[Bob]

To the price of the slide from Prevost, be sure to add in the extra cost the converter incurs dealing with the slide. Kind of academic however as long as your heart is set on four slides.

I note you seem less concerned about axle weights. Don’t be. Your safety depends on those limits.

Also, there is one area I think all coaches need improvement and that is redundancy. Nothing ever breaks when the bus is in the garage. When we travel issues show up. There is nothing that will not fail so now is the time to address what you will do when the xxxxx breaks. Whether the failure is one AC unit or a bad battery or a failed alternator or a failed water pump is there a way to work around the problem?

Are there inverter by-passes? Are there ways to switch things around so something used often can be swapped with one less used such as a receiver or tv without reprogramming the coach?

Do you have a way to identify a problem or do you find out when stuff starts going to hell, such as a failed inverter creating dead batteries?

[Bob]

Good one Jon:)

[Bob]

If my memory is correct, it was Fine Sewing in a Port St. Lucie, FL.

I’ll check my records and if I find the owners card I’ll post the contact info.

[Bob]

I have a similar issue with mine although the condensation
is dripping in the passenger side of the spare tire well. It is a very small
amount but it would be nice to stop it.

I can only find one drain tube and it seems to
drain normally. I assume the dripping is just the condensate catch pan
sweating. We do run our dash air in the mid to high 60s so that may exacerbate the problem.

[Bob]

I think you might find one at florida luxury coach. They had one or two last time I was there, just ask for Floyd or Lon. Tell em Red sent ya. It wont save you a dime but I may get a wave next time I go by. LOL