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Axle Seal Replaced
Had Axle seals replaced Thursday and noticed engine running higher than normal. Bearing set loaded too tight/brakes set to tight? Had to wait on overnight UPS on a bearing race they said was scored from Ft Worth. With heat gun one side (Drivers Rear) was higher than passenger side. Very warm to the touch. Called and gonna run it back down to Prevost/Houston next week. Temp got about 215 on dash gauge and never has run above 195 even in these 100+ summer days in Texas. Outside temp was about 80 on the way home. Engine bay does show cooler there, runs about 10 degrees cooler than dash gauge.
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26 Replies
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On other board I don’t think you mentioned using IR gun so my response was to heat there. 2nd time with prevost doing work?? I would question quality and what if you lock up and destroy something while in transit to their shop? 100 miles—–Got 5$$$ Grand for new Diff housing?? As Paul Harvey said;;;; Now rest of Story:: Just my DA opinion. Bob
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This was first time replacing seals on bus. Had a couple leaking and fixed those and test drove and said they spotted another one leaking. Yeah hit wheels hub area with IR gun and running about 100 degrees while other side was about 75 which was outside temp yesterday. Diffenently hotter on one side. They also replaced (had to wait another day) on bearing race that was scored they said.
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If you have the hub nut too tight it could definitely cause a binding and high heat. In the Prevost manual there are two ways to tighten the hub nut, one using allowable runout (05″ I think) and the other being to tighten to a specific torque and back off a fraction of a turn. I have read both in two different manuals. I would be very concerned if it is too tight.
Tom may want to chime in here as he has had some recent experience.
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My axle is different than Glens, but my tag ran hot after a wheel seal replacement for about 300 miles, than settled down and the temps were the same. I attributed it to maybe a slight change from the tech attempting to remove the caliper, not necessary on the newer wheels to change out a wheel seal. The temp was about 50 degree’s higher while it ran hot.
Then, 2500 miles later the same wheel started leaking again. Found out the wheel was not tightened properly, the first time. It’s critical to get the big nut tightened properly followed up with a dial indicator for runout.
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Thanks Folks. Gonna run it by Prevost and have them check it back out. On Paper ticket they set backlash at 03 I think. Will get invoice out and double check. Always something!
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what does the term “runout” mean?
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The best way I can explain my understanding of the terms (which may not be correct) is the amount of in and out play on the wheel or hub after the nut has been tightened.
I have not used a dial indicator, but prefer to use the method that calls for tightening the hub nut to a specific value and backing off the nut the specified number of degrees. I do not try to remember the exact values because I re-read the section of shop manual that describes it, something I always have to search for.
What I have learned is when the hub nut is tightened properly the wheel will turn freely, but not loosely or not feel like it is binding.
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point being: The drag is enough for the first time his engine temp rose to the overheat range on the way home. Related problem or just another problem. 75 degrees outside so that wasn’t a factor. The engine temp is a first time high for him. This is a extreme variable???? Bob
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It is just about impossiable to tighten a tapered bearing tight enough with a matched race to cause the engine heat to increase ,some tapered bearings in transmission and differentals are pre loaded to 10+ lbs no run out or play
He has something else going on is my guess at 215 degress his 8v92 should have shut down
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I cannot disagree with Clifford. If the bearings are tight enough to get significantly higher temps at the hub than other hubs then the problem with the hub bearings cannot be ignored and must be taken care of.
The engine temps are coincidental.
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Update. Think they have the brakes adjusted tigh cause noticed some brake dust on tag axle after Saturday check ride without pulling tow vehicle. Talked to Houston and going to get her back in next week and check it when I get back to the ranchito. . I guess it will eventually wear um down if it don’t go up in smoke first. I noticed hub and wheel were hotter on 2 wheels to the touch and with IR gun. (75 to 105). Thanks everyone for the ideas.
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As you noticed something was differant.. Good ! My point don’t let it become major just for the pleasure of taking it back to Prevost. They are indivuals also..A great company!!! All cannot be Bill J. A truck shop should be able to back your brakes off a little as well as service seals bearings etc. The bus market is probably less than 2% of Meritor business in the big picture. Just take care of yourself and be careful. Best wishes;;; Bob
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Glen,
I think you have manual slack adjusters and no parking brake on the tag. If you can get the bus over a pit you can adjust the brakes very easy yourself. It will save you a lot of fuel.
See if this helps. All you need is a 9/16″ wrench. It will take less than a minute.
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The 89 you could lift the tag and take a 9/16th and adjust tag easy by reching around tire. In a pinch when too tight just back off till wheel rolls freely by hand. I had one tighten up on me once caused by old grease in slack adjuster–it had harden over years.. Flushed it out with fresh and it freed back up..A repair shop would just have replaced it. FWIW Bob
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More great advice from Bob. But Glen, just be certain however you adjust the slack adjuster you never ever put any part of your body in a position where you could be pinched or crushed if the bus were to drop. If you cannot be assured you are safe support the coach at the body support points.
One Newell owner was in The Great Outdoors in Titusville with his Newell, outside his coach, and without warning an air bag burst (exploded?) and the coach dropped. Don’t take a chance.
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