Bill
Forum Replies Created
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I had a bunch that were sticky, but none that the key couldn’t open.
If the key won’t turn and it’s completely locked up. On my bus, I’d use a small reciprocating blade to cut the pin that moves side to side. Once the pin is cut, you could open the door and then take the back of the door cover off (wood) and grind, then weld a new pin on (round metal stock).
This is on my Liberty.
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Take 1 of the access panels off on the back of another compartment door and look in there and see what you need to do when you drill out the bad one. When I first bought our bus I had a couple of compartments that were a little sticky to open with electric, So I ended up Lubing all the compartments locking mechanism they all worked after that.
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There is a ton of Rectorseal products for leak dedection
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Have control vision it does it all.
A brain Fart I also have the Total Vision
When i give a turn signal the camera goes to that side of the coach and fills the screen full screen
The rear camera is great for viewing my toad. the best part is viewing the truck in relation to a vehicle i am passing. No fear of cutting off someone.
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Same feelings here about Facebook and the $$ forum. I guess we are a small community here, but IMO we have people with a lot of valuable info. I hope all of you stay.
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AZ exert has a later model with a totally different chassis. Regular air brakes That air over hydarulic system is not like anything on the market 2 hydraulic master cylinders are tied together. They are operated buy a regular air brake canister. If you do some googling there is some information. I think some Safari’s also use a similar system
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Replace any push on air fittings with compression fittings If any, Pull off rear side landing lights and you can access front drive bag’s, also there is a Mac Valve for lifting the tag and I replaced it with a Norgren 3 port valve, With tires off replace both of the valves there, Passenger side rear 1 Norgren valve, Remember when you replace the front bags get the right ones, Ask Don Beard for correct part# the correct one is a little taller and will lift higher.
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Thanks Ed,
it is the fire detection system and the sensor that seems to be acting up is in the battery compartment (per the wiring). Now I just need to track down the sensor part number and get it on order from Prevo.
Alex
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Thanks again. The new dimmers install solved the LED flicker problems. 5 minutes per switch and all’s well.
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I am assuming that this is a 120v circuit. The black wire is the hot wire on 120v circuits, the white wire is neutral. The black wire that is connected to the two black wires going into the dimmer switches is the supply to the dimmers. The other black wires coming out of the dimmers go to the lights. Both dimmers operate the same, the difference is one has both the in and out wires going through the same hole, the other one has separate holes. Just a difference in design on the dimmers.
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Are you referring to the isolator?
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None of the suggestions fixed my issues. Must be my old Android
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WOW, Thanks everybody for the great responses.
Jeff: Think I hear a leak back by the duals/tags. Just got home, will be putting the old girl up on ramps and crawling underneath with the shop air connected sometime in the coming week to check.
Bill: My brake tanks stay constant at 125 PSI while on the highway. Aux is the one cycling up and down 25-30 PSI every 5 minutes or so.
Steve: I have replaced about 90 percent of my push on fittings with compression fittings. Murphy’s law says my leak will probably end up being one of the 10 percent push on’s I didn’t replace.
Art:You may have something with the dryer. Backed the coach in the garage today when I got home. Shut it OFF, walked around and plugged in the power cord then all of a sudden the dryer sneezed. How the heck can the dryer sneeze when the engine has been off for 3-4 minutes? Did change the dryer filter about 10 months ago. I have the Bendix AD9 on the coach now.
Chuck