[Bill]

I wouldn’t really worry about it. Like art said the aux is the air suspension. I don’t watch my gauges but I’d assume this is normal and a pressure relief valve is going off. I hear mine do that sometimes when idling or parked

[Bill]

I’m not sure about XL2 but XL1 the Primary and secondary tanks are only for brakes AUX tank and AUX system is for Suspension and other things, Do you have a AUX gauge? When I 1st bought 97 Royale the AUX gauge also follow’s the wet tank and driving using no brakes the AUX gauge went from 100 psi to 120 psi every 5 minutes that means at that psi the wet tank was doing the same. Mine was replacing old school dryer to a new Bendix AD9 dryer with a good check valve. Your secondary air tank in tied to AUX tank but check valve on secondary should prevent it from following AUX tank and there is a Pressure protection (75psi) on AUX tank right there. Maybe Pedal valve (treadle valve) is failing you also replaced parking brake valve ?? that’s tied to that system

[Bill]

No, I do not turn off 12 or 24V disconnects. I want the ability to use my air lock to secure our home when sleeping. Our “new” bus came with the 24V charger installed so I honestly don’t know if this bus would have the same battery issue or not. I am also not going to find out. The batteries are performing well and the bus starts for every new drive. Can’t ask for more than than that.

[Bill]

Yes there does seem to be an issue with a phantom draw. I do turn off both 24v and 12v when storing during winter months. I just started weekend startups though being we have been getting warmer than normal weather here in northern Illinois this month. No issues with battery drain at all for two winter seasons now.

[Bill]

That is a EM70D is that a safer D model??

[Bill]

If an issue is related to the equalizer the dash warning light has usually been blue.

However rather than question any warning light related to the electrical systems just get the multi-tester and read voltages as previously described.

Newer coaches use a proprietary device to display warning lights but I do not think the late nineties vintage coaches use them so at least that is one less thing to check.

[Bill]

I’d go with this one it’s ip67 which means water resistant so you can just place in engine bay. Get the 24v 12a so you have decent charge. The ones that say smart have Bluetooth so you can use your phone to program a profile.

https://www.victronenergy.com/chargers/blue-smart-ip67-charger-waterproof

You can also get this one that’s not water resistant. It goes up to 26a.

https://www.victronenergy.com/chargers/phoenix-smart-ip43-charger#downloads

Just make sure to get a 120v one and not 230v (Europe) or 240v.

[Bill]

BCSellie,

OK……you have a few options. Hope I’m not too late with suggestions……..

First off, good chance your batteries are fine. Any good bus shop can load test the batteries and see if they are degraded. If they are, I would go back to the storage location for a claim for their actions. If they are in the business of storing coaches, then they should know what they did is negligent.

To get the coach started and back in running order, you have a few paths. This will range from “will take some time” to “get it started now”.

For the chassis batteries (starting batteries for the motor). Find/purchase a 24 volt charger and start charging the batteries now. You can either get a high output shop charger (that you will probably only use once) or buy a battery maintainer for the starting batteries. Victron makes a good unit. Make sure it is 24 volt for the easiest hookup. 10 amps should do it. The shop charger route will get the coach started in an hour or two of charging, the maintainer path will take a day or two get enough charge to start the battery. The maintainer (Victron) will stay permanently mounted in your coach and permanently hooked-up while the coach is on shore power. This will keep your chassis batteries topped off while in storage and always ready to use.

For the house batteries, You can simply turn on your inverters and make sure they are set to charge the house batteries. They will charge enough to get some lights on within an hour or so. Keep them plugged in until the batteries are fully charged and NEVER AGAIN let your storage site turn them off. The fastest way to charge the house batteries is to get the engine started. Your charge rate from the engine running is far superior to letting the inverters do the job. If you can get the coach outside, then start the generator and let the coach sit without the coach engine running. This will do the same thing as being plugged in to shore power and let the inverters charge the batteries.

Again, I would be going to to the storage site for repercussions for their actions. They should know better.

[Bill]

Jeff

You are correct, e brake is parking brake.
R-12s on my Featherlite are behind the D/S & P/S rear fender, problem is my 8 house batteries are behind the P/S fender and have to be removed along with a aluminum horizontal plate behind the batteries to access the P/S R-12s. Been avoiding the repair due to access, but leaks are getting to the point I will need to deal with it sooner than later.

Chuck

[Bill]

yes

[Bill]

We have a 1998 Featherlite Vantare.

[Bill]

Mike,

Thank you much for refreshing this post.

I’m finally ready to make it happen.

[Bill]

It’s been a long 4 months but i am finished with the body work and paint. Leaving for Quartzsite Monday.

[Bill]

Larry,

I use PS winter supplement when I am not running from pump to pump or if I am staying in one location for a few days. I also carry their 911 just in case (luckily never had to use it)

Alex

[Bill]

We use the TST in our 96 Liberty 40XL without a repeater. We have had no problems monitoring the tires on the Jeep we tow. We have had the system for over 6 years and are happy with it.