Alex
Forum Replies Created
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Yes, I just add in a little at a time and watch the indicator as well as wait a few min and see the temp at the dash. I set the temp down to 55 and fan on high.
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Every summer ( over the last 10 years) I end up adding 1/2 to 1 can and at $10 a can at Walmart, it has been easier to do this than find where the loss is coming from
Alex
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I like the idea of getting more margin for my steers given I am pushing the advertised limit. My thought was to possibly switch to 365 on steer and keep 315 on drive and tag, and use my 315 spare if ever needed for the steer to get me off the road. My hesitation at this point is my Marathon has custom fenders and I do not know if I have the clearance for the wider tire.
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The last time I ordered you had to check the box that indicated the product would be used by a certified tech.
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If you already inspected the rotors and calipers and ruled them out, another thing to check is bearing play. What does the tire wear pattern look like. That would be a tell tail sign of where to also start checking.
Alex
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Thanks for the feedback, my intent is to keep moving by them as well. Just checking to see if anyone ever had any issues bypassing them. I figured the highway patrol has their eyes out for more serious things than a well maintained private coach pulling a trailer. Now I just need to find the right trailer. I looked at stackers, but decided it would be way more than what I needed and wanted to deal with. Half the places I stop at would likely require me to disconnect to be able to get into some of the tight spots they seem to always put me in regardless of the size information I provide in advance.
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The units will be marked. It is most likely R22
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Hello Rob,
I am not familiar with that vintage, but Are you sure your docking lights are on the Marathon side and not the Prevost side. On my 2001 H they are on the bus side. Did you check the Prevost web site to see if they still list your bus and associated schematics, and have you reached out to Marathon up in Oregon. They have always been extremely helpful in tracking down electrical issues with me for my coach.
Alex
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If you haven’t found a bypass switch yet, you can try dumping the air out of the air tank that feeds the Marathon installed air rams such as the bathroom door, bed lift, step slide, gen air bags (on my Coach) and push the door back. It may bleed off the pressure. I have had to do that in the past. My aux compressor and air tank is in the generator bay that feeds these.
Alex
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Eric, did you end up replacing the stud yourself, or take it back to the shop. If you did the job, what did it take to remove and install new stud. I have a damaged stud on my 2001 H3-45 drive axel (with disk brakes) and need to fix it asap as we are getting ready to hit the road.
Thanks
Alex
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Hi Art,
I am not a battery guy, so my question is to try to further understand your concern. Isn’t it better to have more capacity than needed for those occasions when you may need the extra available power such as running an ac unit.
Alex
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I just got off the phone with Prevost Tech. ( Eric is a great source for help and information) and the bottom line is NO on the retrofit
Alex
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No manual gauge in rear. Talked with Prevo Pass as well as Truck ECM, who rebuilds DDEC IV and both think it could be wiring/connector issue on the 900&901 data line (c1 & c2 output on the IV). Prevo indicated ok to drive, but without know the actual culprit I am hesitant to move from where I am at. This weekend I am going to continue to wire trace, and if I do not find any wiring issues, bad grounds, etc, I will likely pull the ECU and send it out to get checked out. These guys in Texas said they would turn the unit around in 2 days for me. Prevost in NJ told me they could check out all the wiring, but do not have a means to checkout the IV ECU. I have an appointment with them on the 5th if I don’t have resolution beforehand. The ECU installed is a unit that was remanufactured back in 2011 (before my ownership).
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My issue is similar, was removing recent tire install to do brakes, and one inner lug was on so tight that it was binding on the rim snapped when removing it. Thought I was going to have to drill everything out and replace the stud, but with some carful heating up of the remaining lug at the wheel and with an extraction tool, I was able to get the lug off without damaging the stud. My studs press out/in.
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The bus handles surprisingly well as long as you remember to NOT hit the brakes and accelerate to maintain control and gradually slow down. It does want to pull some to the side of the blowout, but it is controllable and a lot of vibration until you get slow enough. I am amazed that other than the body panel, there is no other damage with all that rubber and metal flying around and riding on the bead. The sound alone makes you believe everything is being torn up. This is why it is so important to always be prepared and constantly know what is around you because there is no time to think, just act.