Tom
Forum Replies Created
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Any chance of pictures of the installation ?
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Available most major suppliers-Freightlinner-truckstops-oil-jobbers,NAPa just follow directions and they will tell you how much metal and other things like fuel -antifreeze that shouldn’t be there. Not a high dollar cost. Base line then compare to next oil change. I pulled the pan off my old 8V92 at 100,000 miles and only had 1/10,000th bearing wear. Your allowed 7/10,000th. Probably roll bearings in at 300,000 thousand and get 500,000 if you take good care of it —or more. Do it your self bearings under $300 and 4 hrs labor.rods and mains. Big torque wrench! Bob
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I’m paranoid. I lock the bus even when I am filling it. We have had people open the door and walk right in. Fortunately we have been inside and could stop them on the steps. Now we even lock it when we are inside.
Some people seem to be of the opinion if it is entertainers they have the right to open the door and see them.
Ditto on the 360. It is easier on power cords and fuel nozzles, water lines and sewer hoses if that stuff is disconnected before moving the coach.
Don’t forget the roof. We have seen too many coaches to count going down the road with antennas still up.
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Thanks for all of the information, guys.
David, I have contacted the folks that are building Vantare now with another question and they were very willing to help. But since they did not build my vintage there were limited in their knowledge. It might be worth it to send them an email about the switch/thermostat though. They may have hired some guys that worked for Vantare back then. That happens sometimes.
Ed, my plumbing bay looks similar to yours but without the extra thermostat. Thanks for the reminder about the flea market link. Mr. Cannarozzi has 24 volt controls. Mine is 12 volt.
I turned the Aqua Hot on this morning and checked every bay outside for switches and thermostats with no success. My generator is opposite the plumbing bay and nothing in there either. We have checked everything inside repeatedly and found nothing.
Brian, I will check with your reference before I buy.
Incidently, I fired it up this morning and it heated up and turned off perfectly. First time in several days…
DKO
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I have the problem at least partially solved. I had a good look at Chuck & Barbara’s H3-40. It’s one year newer than our coach, but the fuel fill system is quite different. Our coach has vent hoses that run from a fitting on the top of the tank (lower section) to the top side of the filler about 3″-4″ in from the cap. We also have a pair of reducer rings in each filler, one on either side of where the vent lines tie in. Chuck’s coach as neither of these “features”. The rings are small enough that I can not get the full size (truck) nozzle past the first ring. The restriction causes fuel to back up immediately and shut the pump off. We removed both rings from both sides. I filled up this morning on the passenger side, no problem. Without the rings in the way I can get the nozzle past the vent, and there’s no back pressure until the tank gets to full. As noted in a previous reply, the filler hose on the PS is shorter and runs at a steeper angle than the DS hose. On our coach, the PS vent line runs along next to the filler hose. On the DS, the filler hose is longer and runs almost flat. The DS vent line comes out of the tank fitting, goes above the filler hose, comes back down below the hose, and then runs up to the connection point near the cap. In other words, it forms a trap. I don’t know yet if that is a problem as I have not had a chance to try to fill from the DS.
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That’s the company and there are often some for sale on ebay. I know Deb and Eric who recently sold their coach had one for sale. If you don’t have shop air and a 1″ impact wrench it’s ideal. I use it to check torque when I replace wheels.
I am sending you an email because Eric might have some stands also.
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Truk: You can’t hide money!
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Richard,
If your vintage is similar to later models with a solid axle your ride height valve should be located in the center top of the front axle area. It will have an arm that extends outward and that is free to pivot as the coach goes up and down with respect to the axle. Extending downward from the arm is a rod that can be adjusted in length and that is attached to the axle. The valve will have a single air line to it, and a short 6″ piece of tubing for exhaust air.
It might be made by Haldex and is likely to be a time delay response. This is important to know because when you begin playing with it, you may not immediately see any action when you move the arm up or down. There might be a delay of a few seconds. That is normal. Later coaches have instant response action.
I’ll repeat the warning………never ever get under your coach, especially when working on the suspension unless the coach chassis is supported at the chassis support points.
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The turnpike is usually the best way although it gets a little busy going though Broward county. You don’t want to be on any part of I-95 after you are past Palm Beach, especially during rush hours!
Taking the Sawgrass from Boca to reconnect with the Turnpike in Dade county is a good idea as well.
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The dryer has 220 volts wired to it. The reason I say 220 and not 110 is Pat thinks it is a very slow to dry clothes.
I just checked the power transfer box. There is 120 volts on each incoming leg and 120 volts on each outgoing leg on shore power and 220 when checking the legs together. All the connections are tight and clean. I did not do a complete check on the genarator side of the transfer box as the problem is with shore power. My next step is to replace the dyer 220 volt breaker in breaker box. If this does not fix it my next step is to run some jumper wire to the dryer to eliminate the coach wiring to see if that works,
This problem is beyond my basic understanding of chasing sparks.
The dryer is the only electrical item that does not work with shore power in all the coach. Every thing works including the dryer with generator power. -
Hi Georges,
Be sure first that it is not the dip stick that is leaking. it has an O ring on it and mine was missing causing an oily mess. If it does not fit tight it will leak. Also it takes 90 WT oil.
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With the former Country Coach we experienced two (2) failed tank units. It does get the heart pumping pretty fast. Now days I use the quarter tank rule along with noting the mileage when I fuel up. Seems to work and a lot less stressful.
Had the pleasure of sitting dead stop on the Interstate for 3 1/2 hours early this year. You never expect it to happen but when it does the first thing you will check is fuel.
While parked on the Interstate actually had someone knock on the door asking if they could use my toilet.
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Very nice Gil, now you have piece of mind and no worry about Dos 3.1 taking a crap or worse, the electronics.
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Bookman,
You cover three potential Prevost models in your range of years. You can consider an XL, an XLII or an H3. The XL (40 or 45 foot) was produced through 1999. The XLII began in model year 2000. These are Prevost chassis years and the converters year on the title or registration can match the Prevost year or be newer, such as a 1996 chassis being titled as a 1997 by the converter. It is not deception because it reflects the time required to complete the conversion and put the coach into service.
Also if you do some reseach XL coaches will often be referred to as “rivet” coaches to denote the fact those model years had exposed rivets while the XLII did not.
If you determine one of your preferences is to have slides keep in mind that slides were installed as aftermarket options on XL coaches and it wasn’t until around 2002 Prevost chassis that slides were iinstalled by Prevost. (Verify that because I am guessing).
As you determine your other preferences you may find you are focussing on a specific converter. For example if your decor preference is a wood interior instead of laminates you will be pretty much limited to Royale coaches. If you want Prevost whole bus heat and air (referred to as OTR for “over the road”) you will be looking almost exclusively Liberty coaches. Other conversions have used OTR equipped chassis, but they are rare.
As you learn what systems are important to you it is likely that will also point you towards specific converters. If as an entertainer driver you decide for example you want roof airs instead of Cruiseairs then you have ruled out Liberty. If you ask owners what their preference is I can almost assure you they prefer what they currently own and nobody will be shy about telling you that is what you need. The greatest debate will center around heat and air systems so make sure you know what is important to you.
Each converter, whether it is Country Coach, Liberty, Marathon, Millennium, Parliament, Royalle, Vantare (Featherlite) tends to have their own decor and style so that alone may rule some out. While they may offer what appears similar features they all have their own way of doing it. In all the forums I have participated over the years however I have never seen any consistent gripes to indicate any converter’s product had reliability issues. They all require some care and maintenance, and the bottom line is as Jim pointed out they are all sharing the Prevost chassis.
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Tom: That fix looks much better than oem, imo. Yes, I would like to know your technique but I would think it would be better posted on the thread for other Liberty owners to see; that is, of course, as long as you delete the profanity!