Ronald
Forum Replies Created
-
Yes that is all that is necessary. Safety protocol says to always make the last connection, the one that completes the circuit away from the batteries. This is because they produce hydrogen and oxygen when charging/discharging and if this build up in an enclosed area can explode and the explosion travels into the battery case causing the battery case to explode spraying acid all over the place. Don’t mean to scare you from doing this. All you have to do is follow the negative wire to where it connects to something, maybe the frame or some other electrical junction a few feet from the batteries and make the last connection there. Or lacking that connect a jumper cable at the negative battery terminal and make the charger connection to the other end of the jumper cable a few feet away from the battery outside of the confined space of the battery compartment.
I may sound paranoid, but having been in the automotive business for 50 years I have personally seen one battery explode and seen the aftermath of a few others that exploded. Rare, but why take the chance.
Another thing that will reduce the chance of explosion is good ventilation, a stream of air blowing across the work area will get rid of the offending gases. There is still risk if the batteries are very “active” at the moment, either discharging, or recently charging, there will be explosive mixture emanating from the vents. The risk is highest within a few inches of the vents in this case.
Another plus of modern smart chargers is they have circuitry that prevents (or in the paranoid person’s mind is supposed to prevent) sparking when making the connections.
At the very least be sure to wear safety glasses with side shields when doing this type of work. Acid burns on the skin aren’t all that bad if you wash it off right away, but it makes a mess out of corneas, as will plastic shrapnel.
-
That first step is going to be a doozy.
M.
-
Tell us about the lights under the rear view mirror brackets.
-
Roy, go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy a roll of bubble wrap style insulation. Cut out a shape to fit your windshields, slightly oversize, and push it into position on the inside. It will dramatically reduce the heat gain up front.
-
I have a nice surge guard that is now dead. Working on getting a progressive ind one to replace it.
-
https://ddcsn-ddc.freightliner.com/cps/rde/xbcr/ddcsn/DDC-SVC-MAN-0006.pdf
That is my operator’s manual for my DDEC VI engine and the same 2500 RPM warning is found on page 36. That is a warning, not a permission to exceed 2100 RPM. The limit is as I stated in the link in a previous post.
But it is your coach and if you want to exceed limits and feel comfortable because you are not exceeding a warning, that’s OK with me.
-
I have a stupid question
has anyone other them me checked the temp of the breakers when we are in 90 plus temps
mine run 95 to 105 F AC breakers with OAT 95ish
-
Put me in the category of being “chicken”. This is especially so when things are written, such as the 2100 RPM limit. I have no doubt what Per was told was believed to be true by the people he spoke to but the fact there is nothing to support what they say in writing by Detroit Diesel makes me want to stick with my cautious attitude about engine speed.
The second reason is I have concerns about a downshift slamming an engine from whatever the RPM was in the higher gear up to 2300 in the lower gear. It is one thing dropping a gear without having a corresponding rev match when the RPM spread is relatively low, but I can feel the harshness of a downshift that slams the RPM so high and that can’t be good for anything in the drivetrain.
Does my caution indicate I think Per’s engine or transmission is going to end up in pieces on the interstate? No it does not. But do I think what he is experiencing carries a little more risk than maintaining lower rev limits? Yes I do.
But keep in mind that parachuting and bungee jumping are sports with low risk but I am not prepared to accept even that small risk.
-
We should be okay too…they “boinked” our cc for their charges the first of May.
-
I think you have to get at the underside of the toilet Les, but that is a guess. You can find out if you are willing to be a risk taker.
Loosen one of the fasteners. At some point it will be so loose that if the nut is not captive you will not be able to loosen it any more because the nut will just spin because it is not in contact with anything to resist spinning. If you can unscrew the entire fastened and you don’t hear the nut or rear threaded portion drop to the floor behind the toilet life is good.
If it is not a captive nut and you don’t want to go any further hold something under the leg on the toilet seat assembly to pull the nut back into contact with something so you can re-tighten it.
Or you can just contact Headhunter and ask them the question, but what’s the fun in doing the safe thing?????
-
Several of us displaying our Prevost Community license plates!!! Good visit with Al today as nice to put a face to a name….
-
Ronknowless,
Jon is correct, more information is needed to answer your question. What type of tank indicator is it, model # if you have it. Sounds like Jon know his stuff when it comes to the Tank Sentry items from Headhunter, he was dead on when it came to Dick’s unit. Dick your unit is calibrated from the main unit and a tank cleaner would not help in calibration.
-
Dick, did you mean put Jon and Tom to use or just get the discounts?
-
Damn, wish I could be there.
-
Nice pic Ronald, I know you’re going to get the stacker painted to match.
We just landed at Marathon San Antonio, long rainy windy day from Foley.
You guys missed a great slime ball fest…..