Ronald
Forum Replies Created
-
Gil, I fell into the 110v idea as the fuse was in the Motherboard which I thought was all 110v. “Head up and locked” I guess.
Might have a source for the fan, should know tomorrow–will post the result.
-
Gil
I don’t know what CC used. In our Royale the mirror switches used are those Prevost installed when building the chassis. Had one bad got a new switch from Prevost. I really got two. My thinking was a switch that was about 8 years old failed the other might be about ready to fail. -
What might be the easiest is to figure out everything on the coach that uses air. Unplug the thing at the solenoid and one at a time see if they still work.
The fact that it has the solenoid control tells me it is not something passive like generator air bags, but something that must be activated like a dump valve or pocket door. Can’t be too many air operated devices.
-
Thanks Tom
The previous owner ordered and shipped them as part of the deal. Now I have new Lifelines and want to find out about the old. I’ll contact you. Thank you.
-
Thanks Mark, Jon, Tom
Checked this out today and as stated is exactly what I found. Relay marked #76 pulled.
AL
-
Mike,
A professional should be able to tow your bus as long as the nose can get high enough to allow the wheel or axle lift to get beneath the front axle or tires. If the nose of the coach is down too low you might be able to work it higher by rolling the front tires on some boards or a stack of boards. A number of owners have created drive on ramps to elevate their coach so they can service them so that is not an unlikely solution to getting access for a tow truck.
Having said that if you are inclined to do your own work you can actually make a set of ramps from 2 X 10 or similar, stacked together sideways and bolted together. But whatever you do never ever get under the coach unless the chassis is supported or the coach is all the way down. NEVER EVER trust the air bags or suspension system to remain up, especially when you are working on the suspension. The chassis should always be supported prior to going under the coach and where to support it can be found on the Prevost site for your vintage coach.
You can look under the coach a little by turning the steering wheel all the way left or right and then looking through towards the center. That may help you at least see the area the leak is coming from. Is it possible the leak is an air bag? That would certainly explain why the front will not rise. And if it is it is a sure bet no matter how big the leak is today, it is going to keep getting larger. If that is your problem turning the tires will make a portion of the air bags more visible enabling you to verify that.
Air bags are easy to replace if you have the patience and some basic tools.
-
First, thanks to all for quick replies. I have more info. My bus is a pro conversion done by Liberty. It was never a seated coach. A little more about my problem, or rather my bus’s problem, mine are beyond help haha.
Inside the access door for the steering, auxilliary air tank and level low system just below the electrical compartment door and underneath the drivers seat I can hear a rather pronounced air leak. Further when the engine is shut down, I can watch the auxillary ari pressure guage on the dash drop from 120 lbs to zero in a matter of very few minutes. I have not been able to pinpoint the leak because it seems to be too far inboard, towards the centerline of the coach. I am thinking I will drop the bumper and see if I can do any better from inside the spare tire compartment. I am a little skeptical about that because the spare tire compartment is full of two cruisair a/c units. I thought of going after it from inside the forward cargo bay but that has been lined with plywood and outdoor carpeting.
One more question. It seems a little embarassing but here goes. Ignoring aftermarket changes or “improvements”, what is the recommended procedure for accessing the front levelling valve. I see it on drawings as somewhere in the center of the chassis. I know it controls the height of the body from the front axle and all but I just cannot see it. The rear ones are easy as they are mounted outboard and are fairly obvious. I assume I am looking for the same typr of hardware as the rear valves just located on the front axle near the center. Maybe this seems simple minded but I just cant find it.
Thanks for your help
-
Gil,
If you get a chance, how about a picture?
-
Chuck,
Obviously if the fuel solenoid failed open, problem solved. but if that is not the problem whatever is causing the problem has to be identified, but more importantly the real problem needs to be shared with Liberty and as many Liberty owners as possible. We cannot afford to shut down generator cooling while it runs. It almost sounds as though your safety shut down did not work, but maybe the temerature for shut down is above what yours reached.
Not knowing you generator control system prevents those that might have the same issue from being on alert (as in do you have the Watchdog?) so I suggest all of us verify our generators have shut down. I always anticipate that vibration as the generator goes from running speed to stopped. It’s kind of seat of the pants flying, but I can know it has quit running.
-
Yes our inverters are the 4024s and it does say max charge 15 amps… that just caught my eye.
Great input…
thanks…
Diane
-
Taking your advice,John, I replaced the thermal overload, cleaned all connections and it seems to have solved the problem. I have run it for about 4 days and nights in my barn so maybe I got lucky.
Bill
-
If you just do the high speed, it will lock in high speed.
-
DKO,
Where are you? It might be possible if you are near another member of PC that you might be able to get help or advice on where to get help. Apart from any risk of hurting yourself from electric or the weight of batteries there is a real risk associated with improperly set up inverters.
Our batteries are very important and expensive so we all want them to last. The surest way to shorten their life is to not charge them according to the manufacturer’s instructions. My batteries have always come with very specific charging instructions. Those are the only instructions you should follow with regard to setting up your inverters. Other information should be viewed as general instructions. Helpful, but not the final word.
Setting up your inverters is not usually a difficult task. Sometimes the instructions can be intimidating, but if you take the time to understand how it is done you are actually going to appreciate the ability to set them up for how you are using your coach. The options available to you in setting up the inverters will often enable you tailor the inverters for the conditions such as dry camping or shore power or limited power.
I predict when you are done with this project you will be able to help folks that will have similar questions. Just keep in mind that my Liberty or Truk’s Royale or Al’s Marathon are all set up different from yours and likely different from one another’s so any advice any of us provides has to be qualified as to specifically which coach is applicable.
-
Tom, that place is Suncoast RV in Hudson, FL on the west side of FL. Been there. Very reasonable in price and they also have full hookups while you wait. We had them defogg the windows and we put them in our self using Sikaflex -221 (The BLACK TUBE). You can buy it at auto parts warehouses.
Sandy
-
Aboout a month ago I mangled a trailer tire and decided to see if the 245/75/17.5 XTA2 Energy was in the program.
Sure enough, it was!
Next I will need tires for the Excursion so I think I’ll give it a try. Couldn’t hurt!