Ronald
Forum Replies Created
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Rick,
Your best contact at Prevost Jacksonville is John Kincaid, he’s the service manager and deals with the panel issues daily.
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requires a engine cradle change. DKO had it done–hopefully he will see this and chime in. Bob
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OK I think I have this solved. I unplugged from shore power and noticed that the inverters did not kick in even though the remote panel showed that they were “on”. I subsequently turned each inverter off at the unit itself for about 15 seconds and turned them both back on. Walla, the inverters kicked in. I then reconnected to shore power and waited for the transfer switch and walla, the chargers kicked in and the panel voltage now reads 13.7 volts and they have dropped down to “Accept” stage. Apparently, neither unit was either charging or inverting although both were switched “on”. Turning them off and then back on seems to have solved the issue. Not sure of the cause, maybe just a funky Xantrex thing. They are Freedom 25’s waiting to be replaced but so far have not had any issues.
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I do not believe that technology means complexity, to me complexity occurs when one takes and old technology and attempts to modernize by adding components to change or modify the original design or intent. By that I do not necessarily mean complexity of operation rather complexity of the components that have been added to say make an item operate automatically or easier, cleaner, more efficiently if you prefer. Back to the shades, old technology made complex by adding all of the goodies to make them travel up an down via a switch whereas a new technology for the same result (privacy in this case) is glass that is filled with an inert gas that not only provides an r factor but also with the introduction of electrical stimuli changes color…….whites, greys or black out. There is a big difference here!
Back to the automobile scenario. Sparks plugs last because first, unleaded fuel (I believe this went into full play in 1975), that burns infinitely cleaner than the big bang stuff with tetraethyl lead. It was in the 70’s, with the broadening use of the transistor brought electronic ignitions, point and dwell problems vanished. It was in the 80’s when someone discovered you could tip the plug with platinum, spark plug life sky rocketed over the copper tips. Now we have all of these sensors, black boxes designed to further optimize the engine, plus air injector pumps,exhaust gas recirculation, catalytic converters…new technology, no,still the same old 4 cycle 5 event engine. I do see any new technology here, just an old engine design made somewhat more efficient and cleaner through complexity, if you don’t believe me then just take one apart. What about the Wankel, the Free Piston Engine, even the Turbine?
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Rod ( I asume Nancy is not going to be working under the bus ) I suggest you consider starting your maintenance program in two sections. The first I would call consumables and related parts. The items would be engine oil, engine coolant, transmission fluid, differential fluid, generator oil, generator coolant, fan gear box lube, plus all filters, belts, and converter installed coolant hoses. Going in very general terms because the quantities vary depending on the coach, engine, etc. you need 10 gallons of engine oil, 5 gallons of differential gear lube, 24 gallons of 50/50 coolant, and about 7 to 8 gallons of transmission fluid. The generator will probably require another 2 gallons of oil and 2 gallons of coolant. Don’t forget the power steering filter.
You will need grease to lube the chassis. It wouldn’t hurt to lube anything that moves including locks, lock bolts, hinges, etc.
If you do all of the above then you can set up a schedule for routine maintenance that will never again find that amount of work required at once. All times will vary with chassis lubes and oil changes based on what you decide. Transmission fluid changes will be based on what type fluid you use, but likely every 4 years based on Transynd. Coolant could be every 2 years or 6, again depending on the type you use.
Other things are going to be determined on your confidence level in the parts. For example, my batteries and brake chambers are 5 year items. I throw them away on their 5th birthday, working or not. Others may opt to wait intil they fail. My air bags and Norgren suspension valves I replace on their 10th birthday, leaking or not. (Usually not). Tires are 6 year replacement based on their date codes. A few hours with the Prevost Manual available on line and your computer and you can create your own custom maintenance schedule based on the specific coach you buy.
One note about parts……shop them. Prevost has excellent prices on some parts, and for others they are not competitive. Most of the time they are a very good source.
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Fred,
I just went through the whole process and it’s not complicated, just takes some time and thought to get through all the working parts. Your fuel pump is shaft driven, so make sure that’s working first. There is a fuel solenoid that allows fuel to the pump and mine was sticking. You can hook 12v to the wires and can hear/feel the solenoid open and close if it’s working properly. I found the best way to diagnose the fuel system and see if the nozzle is spraying the mist is to just unhook the coil and lay the head in a position where you can contain the fuel spray. I just used an old towel and turned the unit on for just a few seconds to confirm the fuel nozzle was doing it’s job. You have to put tape over the photo cell to do this.
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With a little bit of luck, there are markings inside the housing which may help to identify what this is for.
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Thank you so much for the invite, that is good of you.
I guess the rumors are true.
Jon says that you are much too generous for your height.
Maybe when the weather gets better, KC is a nice little three dayer from our location here in the middle of nowhere.
BCO
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Cheryl and Don have just made our reservations and are looking forward to our first rally. We love the area and are looking forward to meeting all of you.
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Thank you Jim, I appreciate the info. I didn’t pull the gauge out completely but I took a look at it from behind and I wasn’t sure if you could open it up and get to the bulb. Yes, I need to get a manual and I will do that too.
Thanks again.
Fred
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Thanks Steve, it’s good to hear from someone on the sales side.
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Here are some added thoughts somewhat related. With rare exception a buyer that would like slides is going to have to buy an XLII or an H3. There are some rivet coaches with slides, but they were not Prevost slides. I have no clue whatsoever how well engineered non-Prevost slides are or if they are supported for service. I am just pointing out that in the vast majority of coaches with slides they will be on an XLII or H3 chassis.
There has been little or no discussion about delamination on H3 coaches and I think anyone lookng to avoid potential delamination issues can safely assume there will be none with the H3.
For those that want a Prevost with slides and they prefer stainless, their chance of getting a rivet coach is very slight. They are out there, but like motorhome conversions with bunks they are relatively few.
When considering a purchase of a coach remember due to privacy issues Prevost will not send out service history reports to anyone but the coach owner. So if you are considering the purchase of the coach and want to know if there have been skin problems your access to the history of the coach can only come through the coach owner. The owner has to request it and in fact the owner has to prove ownership via a title. I can appreciate how difficult that might make the purchase process, but a buyer should go into the purchase knowing the information relative to skin delamination.
I can say the slides change the entire character of a coach such that if an XLII has to be the coach, to me it is worth the risk, but all buyers have to do their homework. This is not something that buyers should do on line, at an auction or without an inspection. The costs can be staggering and an on-line purchase without an inspection can turn a purchase of a dream coach into a nightmare. BTW, I would stand behind that statement even if it applied to a rivet coach, just because there is way too much risk in a purchase of any coach without a detailed inspection.
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I agree with Jon.
With the huge amount of kinetic energy involved in a rolling bus, a shoulder strap won’t do much more than keep you in the seat as you are crushed from the front.