Per
Forum Replies Created
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Well, when I was that age, I only had a 4 speed 1958 VW Bug.
I had to double-clutch it (correct term?) to shift up or down.
🙂
Ronald
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Try this place. Guy owns the one in Park City, UT and its great.
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Sorry to hear of the loss.
I will give you a call tomorrow evening Dan.
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Jon,
Based on the way this coach has been maintained by previous owners, i can say with almost 100% certainty they did not change the way the transmission shifts.
And BTW, I am confident I am as engaged in driving our coach as any other Prevost driver!
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DETROIT 60 SERIES ENGINE SPECS
11.1L Detroit 60 Series
12.7L Detroit 60 Series
14.0L Detroit 60 Series
Manufacturer:
Detroit Diesel
Applications:
1987 – 1997, various on/off highway
1987 – 2007, various on/off highway
2001 – 2011, various on/off highway
Engine Type:
4 cycle turbodiesel, wet cylinder liners
Configuration:
Inline 6 cylinder
Displacement:
677 CID, 11.1 liters
778 CID, 12.7 liters
858 CID, 14.0 liters
Firing Order:
1 – 5 – 3 – 6 – 2 – 4
Engine Block:
Cast iron, wet cylinder liners, 7 main bearings
Cylinder Head:
Cast iron, overhead cam
Compression Ratio:
16.0 : 1
15.0 : 1 or 16.5 : 1
15.0 : 1 or 16.5 : 1
Cylinder Bore:
5.12 in (130 mm)
5.12 in (130 mm)
5.24 in (133 mm)
Cylinder Stroke:
5.47 in (139 mm)
6.30 in (160 mm)
6.62 in (168 mm)
Valvetrain:
Overhead camshaft, roller follower rocker arms, 4 valves per cylinder (2 intake, 2 exhaust valves per cylinder)
Injection:
Electronically controlled EUI (electronic unit injector) injection system (see DDEC section below)
Aspiration:
Turbocharged, air-to-air intercooler
Engine Dimensions (approx.):
Length – 57 in
Width – 34 in
Height – 50 in
Engine Weight (approx):
2,675 lbs
2,800 lbs
2,800 lbs
Rated Horsepower:
250 – 350 hp @ 1,800 RPM
380 – 455 hp @ 1,800 RPM
425 – 515 hp @ 1,800 RPM
Rated Torque:
1,100 – 1,250 lb-ft @ 1,200 RPM
1,350 – 1,550 lb-ft @ 1,200 RPM
1,550 – 1,650 lb-ft @ 1,200 RPM
Max Engine Speed:
2,100 RPM (some continuous duty applications may be governed at 1,800 RPM)
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Allan please let us know if you get the ZipDee AutoAwning to work. I have the same one, read about the potential problems with it. I have only seen might out ONCE in the four years I’ve owned the coach and that was when Jeff Rowe did the PPI on the coach; he was successful in getting it to retract. My wife wants me to put it out. I told her the only time I’m putting out is if I have a corded SawZAll in the coach to cut the thing off if it won’t retract. Since I don’t carry a corded SawZAll in the coach (I leave it in the race shop), the thing stays put.
Doug: Does it look like the replacement of the AutoAwning with a manual one was an easy deal? I asked Jeff Rowe about replacement and he said it wasn’t an easy job as the new manual ZipDee would have different mounting locations which meant getting up into the ceiling of the coach to tighten down the new mounting brackets. I sniffed at a Liberty just before we bought ours that didn’t have a big curbside awning (came unhooked at 70mph and ended up in the ditch between Memphis and Alberta) and Zip Dee said the 24′ manual was $2,300 to $2,500.
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20 amp rating is fine if the controlling circuit breakers are 20 amp or less. I must say that the wires look larger than 12ga though. Put a VOM on the wires and be sure of the origin!
Doug
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Thanks’
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That is very concerning Gary because it is an indication a vital device such as a fan can be rendered inoperative and with the result the coach cannot be driven.
I believe you are the first om this forum and others to indicate the clutch failure was a lock up of the fan and not one of fan engagement.
Were there any signals such as bearing noise, binding of the fan when rotated by hand, etc?
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call Prevost Pass ? 1-800-463-7738
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Per, yours may be different but, In my transfer switch box there are two timers that have an limited service life and can prevent shore or generator power from passing into the coach when one fails. They are identical so swap out their position and see if the problem moves from the shore to the generator.
Here are the 2 links I found on the subject
https://prevostcommunity.com/forum/threaddetails.asp?Category=Electrical%3E&ThreadID=8113#68280
https://prevostcommunity.com/forum/threaddetails.asp?Category=Electrical%3E&ThreadID=6000#55088
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I own a 2007 Marathon H3-45 with 3 Valid slides, double in bedroom. All are labeled super slides thus opening wider along with longer length.
The control is push button simple following the screen prompts. Operation is extremely smooth and very quiet, no jerking.
There are two control panels, installed fore and aft, both fully operate all three slides. If there was a control box malfunction, you have a spare.
Did the same research Luc …when I was considering this bus. Unable to find anyone who actually had a problem or heard of anyone with a Valid slide problem.
When I spoke to Valid about service….referral was back to Marathon service center or Valid factory for assistance.
Another consideration… Valid slides are extra dollars added to the shell cost. That said, Valid slides installed should increase the bus value. That of course is subject likely compared to cars and trucks loaded with premium model upgrades.
AL
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Jon,
I had to exit my H via the rear window one time, and again had to crawl in through the rear window when the door would not unlock due to broken parts. Simple: (1) Open rear sliding window (2) Close Rear Slide (3) Lay on bed face down with legs out the window. (4) do reverse belly crawl and once your belt buckle gets past the window, let your legs dangle down (5) continue backing out, hooking fingers over window sill (6) After you are hanging from window sill by your finger tips, let go of window sill. Viola! You will be out of the bus.
Getting back in requires a ladder of some type, but just reverse the process once you get your head and shoulders in the window.
Remember Jon, your desire is to get out of the bus. If you start slipping and you miss the finger grab of the window sill, you will still have accomplished your goal of being out of the bus. Of course, you may be laying on your back … on an Ambulance gurney, but you WILL be out of the bus.
Just tying to be helpful.
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Dick,
Glad you were able to get out and that it wasn’t an emergency situation. When you have it corrected please update us on what you find and how you fixed it.
Our bus is in the same age range and I might need to get proactive. I think there was a discussion here a while back about routing an emergency release cable that would enable the latch release in this situation. I will search for it.
Doug
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Trouble maker…