[Deleted User]

I think I know how to wire this receptacle. The power supplied to our coaches is 3 phase with 208 volts measured between the phases. This particular receptacle uses 2 of the phases or 2 hot conductors and 2 neutrals…creating 120 volts between each leg for a total of 240 volts. The green conductors are the grounds. So the green conductors are wired to the receptacle post that is silver in color with no symbol. The white conductors are combined and I think are wired to post marked “Y”. The black conductors are individually wired to posts “X” and “Z” respectively. Does this sound right?

[Davy]

Careful. The receptacle is a 3 phase receptacle but our buses (both shore power and generator) use a single 240V split phase, i.e. 2 x 120V 180 degrees out of phase, not three phases. This looks like a “custom” install.

Are you sure the grill is 240V? It would not work if you connected the bus to 30A outlet.

[Archived]

I think I am over thinking this one. Yes the grill is 240 volts, but the receptacle is 3 phase 208, 20 amps. The original wires/conductors consist of two separate circuits, three wires each, for a total of six wires…two hots, two neutrals and two grounds. The grounds are tied together and attached to the silver screw/post of the receptacle. The neutrals are tied together and I believe are attached to the post directly above the ground post…..same side of receptacle. The hots each have their separate post on the other side of the receptacle. We will see what happens when I flip the two breakers inside.

[Rocky And Tonya]

Careful boys. We have no 3 phase electrical systems on our Liberty coaches.

The electric grill is a 240 volt grill and between either hot wire (black) and the neutral (white) is 120 volts. Between the two black wires is 240 volts. In the electric panel the grill will have two breakers and each breaker controls one leg of the 120 volt wires.

[David]

A true 240V device does not have a neutral connection, only the two hots and ground.

The three phase socket has connectors for 3 hots (X, Y, Z) and ground, no neutral.

This is a non-standard hack. You’ll need to ensure that the wiring of the plug and socket match to whatever the grill expects.

I don’t understand why they did not use the appropriate 240V socket and plug.

Gerald

[Davy]

I admit the electrical connection that Liberty installed for the Jenn-air outdoor grill is somewhat mystifying. The manual for the unit states a three wire single phase, AC 120/240 volt or 120/208 volt 60 cycle electrical system must be provided in accordance with NFPA No. 70 electrical code.

I wish I took a picture of this connection before I disconnected it….but there are definitely 6 wires that were removed…two black, two white and two green. Wish I could provide more detail but that’s all I have.

Rightly or wrongly I can only assume the 120/208 volt receptacle is wired like a standard 120/240 volt receptacle…..but the logic escapes me.

[Archived]

The way this is set up for reasons unknown to me is as 2 120V circuits. I never looked to see what is happening beyond the plug at the rear of the Jenn-Air and the unit controls and heating elements.

I do know the unit will work if only one circuit breaker is on but not as well as when both are on. I never cared enough to find out why.

[Ron]

Jon is correct in that this appears to be 2 separate 120V circuits. For them to be combined to create 240V each circuit “hot” lead (should be the black wire) would have to originate on different sides of your electrical panel. If the two circuit breakers are in fact on opposite sides of your panel then you have 2 separate 120V circuits. I do not like using a 3ph receptacle/plug when what you should have is a single phase one capable of handling the amperage required. Some wonky wiring (and definitely not meeting the electrical code cited) was done here. Testing these wires is very simple and I would suggest you put the VO meter to use just for safety sake.

Doug

[Deleted User]

On the 1995 Liberty Elegant Lady I once owned, the Jenn-air had a grill on one side and two burners on the other side with the controls in the center. As I recall, one phase ran the grill while the other phase ran the burners. Would be simple to test,

[Deleted User]

The plug is rated at 20 amp….does this add a problem ?

[Archived]

Should be easy to test with a meter. I believe the silver screw is for the neutrals, copper for grounds & golds for hots. Check for continuity, the two side slots should go to the gold screws, the L shape to copper & smaller end one to silver.

[Per]

20 amp rating is fine if the controlling circuit breakers are 20 amp or less. I must say that the wires look larger than 12ga though. Put a VOM on the wires and be sure of the origin!

Doug

[Archived]

The only way to know how this is wired is to take the male plug apart and match the connections.

[AL]

Looks like this is a non-standard way to get two 120V circuits over one 3 phase plug. At a minimum make sure you do not end up with a phase or neutral on the chassis of the grill which may also be connected to your bus chassis. You don’t want to be buzzed on a rainy day leaving the bus.

Make sure only the ground is connected to the chassis of the grill.

[Dick]

Allan’s post somewhat paraphrased: “I think I know how to wire this receptacle … hold my wine and lets see if this works!”

Immediate apologizes to Allan … even before I get an email from Tom. I just couldn’t resist.

Its these kinds of threads that cause me to wish that Bill Doherty from Liberty Coach was monitoring the PC Forum and would respond with some background and good guidance.