Mike, 92 Country Coach
Forum Replies Created
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Fuse Holder came in from JBugs VW parts place, When I can I will install it and call it a day. On schematics it shows 3 curly symbols on all 3 lamp wires also 1 1amp fuse for all 3 wires and between EQ and batteries on 12v & 24v show 2 large fuses??
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Lifeline does have instruction on their website for a conditioning charge as well as a deep discharge recovery to help with batteries that seem to have lost capacity.
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I am going to install the same units, just branded as Tosot. They are supposed to be inverter based, and they use the new R32 refrigerant. I already have penguin roof airs, one of three not working, and just too damn loud. Looking forward to much quieter units. Hope to all in the spring as well
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What he said! ^^^^
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Here’s what it looks like. I’m thinking about waiting for it to her warm out so it’s not as brittle (it’s 10 deg here) and maybe using some needle for stitches to manually put the end together and see if that works. Maybe even stich it all the way up and let the slide break the thread as it comes in to see if that fixes it.
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One thing that may help people more easily know where to chase leaks is to understand when the bus is parked there is no air beyond the relay valves so if air in the primary and secondary system goes down it has nothing to do with the air lines or brake chambers.
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A leaking check or protection valve will slow the leakage from all tanks, but if the leak rate at the source, such as at a relay valve is slow it will allow all tanks to drain.
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Try dumping the tanks at a high rate. My tanks will all go down at the same rate over a few days, BUT if I dump the air quickly the check/oneway valves work/hold.
Haven’t figured out why yet.
Chuck
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I had to service the flush valve on my 97 Liberty which was located in a manner similar to yours.
You might find in the long run it is easier to loosen the hose clamps and remove the entire valve. Make sure your water pressure is zero and pump as much water from the toilet as possible using a plunger or some siphon. A bath towel will absorb whatever water is remaining.
With the valve out you can remove the six screws holding the halves together and clean the inside of the valve body and diaphragm, plus you can add voltage to the solenoid and verify its operation.
It will not be easy removing it due to limited space but it can be done.
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Every Liberty has different floor plans and thus ways to access filters, but on my 3 every routine service was accomplished without any excessive effort like moving a refrigerator. Owners of other conversions do like to repeat cheap shots however making it seem like a Liberty has design issues.
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Also make sure your dryer and Air system is clean before replacing valves, I replaced my old Dryer with a New Bendix AD9
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Glad to hear that, Jon. Us oldies have to look out for each other! Continued all the best to you and Di.
Where is Tom and what is he up to? Mike
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I put a check valve at small compressor line where it ties in up front and I never use aux compressor so I put in a shut off valve at compressor, Remember aux gauge is the same psi as wet tank there is no check valves between the aux and wet tank, But there is a PP1 valve on aux tank from wet tank, And can air leak back through engine compressor? That’s why I put in unloarder Kit on Bendix compressor. And does the dryer have a check valve in it to prevent air from coming back through engine compressor, I also replaced dryer
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As long as your 12v and 24v voltages are good then I’m almost certain it’s the little vanner control module which is only like $85. I touched mine and one of the wires just fell off. Been on my list to replace.
The 24v batteries typically are 4x12v in series/parallel. It equalizes and maintains both banks to make sure all good for chassis batteries.
I wouldn’t risk messing with the chassis 12v systems. This shouldn’t have anything to do with the house systems. House needs it’s own battery system.
BTW the 70a victron is great and can run max 85a. You can run them in parallel. I just setup 4x 24-48v 8.5a and 2x 24-12v 70a to connect the alternator and charge my house lithium
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Well I can tell you it’s not easy on an H. I have seen it defeat one set of installer they even came the next day with a different windshield thinking it was cut wrong ??. But I had both of my done not long ago and they worked there you know what off. I had to tell them how to go about it for I have watched one installed. They told me they had this until they were in the second hour and standing there like two defeated bulls. I can tell you the bottom has to go in first then slide it in the middle next start working the top in . The outside goes last it is very tight Prevosts have the closest tolerances in the industry they have to being a commercial bus. It will seem like it won’t fit but keep working it it will go eventually.