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Vanner vs Victron Orion DC-DC Converter
Hello all.
I’m new here and new to being a Prevost owner.
I’m a old hand at gasser mechanics and especially the electrical systems of passenger vehicles.
My reason for posting this is regarding the Vanner system.
it seems a bit out of date to me at this point.the Victron dc-dc converter is rated at 70amps.
I could get two of these units, one for the chassis and one for the house.
The House will be running off a 24v battery pack.I could get rid of the tap on the chassis batteries and just run them as a solid 24v pack.
am I missing something obvious?
thanks!
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6 Replies
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I switched my two Vanners (wired in parallel) to two Victron 70A models a few years ago, along with a Victron battery isolator. I was hesitant because they’re in the engine compartment and I was unsure of the effect of the heat in there on the Victron. I did a few test runs on a warm, but not hot day and then used an IR gun thermometer to check various spots around my Victron. I think the highest I saw was around 135dF near the chassis batteries. I haven’t run the bus much since the installation, but the Victron seems happy.
/threaddetails.asp?Category=Electrical%3E&ThreadID=9549#96405
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Different converters do different things with the electrical systems. Year, model, etc etc etc, matter.
Example: my 96 Liberty XL “Classic” is completely different from a 96 Liberty XL “Elegant Lady”.
Jeff and Lindsay
91 Marathon XL -
Mine is/was a seated coach. I just removed the seats myself!
I’ll be building out the house electrical system from scratch myself as well. I think my 12v house draw would be under 70amps.
My main concern was if in perusing the absolute gorgeous schematic drawings Prevost has provided, I might have missed a reason that I would need to keep the Vanner system.
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They are all different.My bus doesn’t have a Vanner for/on the house electrical system. My house system is 12v. Charged by either a engine driven 12v alternator, or two 12v inverter/chargers.The chassis has 4 group 31 12v batteries that are hooked up in both series and parallel so as to put out for both 24v and 12v items and mine has a 100 amp Vanner equlizer, new in 1995, to keep them equalized. These chassis batteries are charged by an engine driven 24v alternator, or a 115vac battery charger power by shore power or the genny.
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Thanks all for the information, the engine bay mounting is a good idea.
It looks like I’ll be removing the Vanner system as I go through the electrical system.
It is giving me a hi/lo light, but my batteries are minimum of 6y years old and the terminals are heavily corroded.
I’ve got 4 brand new batteries and new cables to install in the next few days, maybe that resolve my Vanner issue.
Clint & Tammy Summers
2000 XL 45 Country Coach (rivets)
1977 FC31 Bluebird Wanderlodge (more rivets)
Vonore TN -
As long as your 12v and 24v voltages are good then I’m almost certain it’s the little vanner control module which is only like $85. I touched mine and one of the wires just fell off. Been on my list to replace.
The 24v batteries typically are 4x12v in series/parallel. It equalizes and maintains both banks to make sure all good for chassis batteries.
I wouldn’t risk messing with the chassis 12v systems. This shouldn’t have anything to do with the house systems. House needs it’s own battery system.
BTW the 70a victron is great and can run max 85a. You can run them in parallel. I just setup 4x 24-48v 8.5a and 2x 24-12v 70a to connect the alternator and charge my house lithium
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