Marshall
Forum Replies Created
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Do you have a scanner?
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I hope you and Ralf sort it out, you have made this post on the POG Forum and both Prevost Community and POG Facebook and being viewed by hundreds if not thousands of people.
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It’s not a matter of which one to trust it’s a matter of what source is giving the screen info.
I think Ed is referencing the LCD to the right of the steering wheel which shows Techlink functions.
The dashboard Pro Driver screen that is left of the steering wheel shows the Chassis battery voltage.
So Dave what screen are you looking at?
Later
bv
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If you have the 3 1/2″ puck with a 2 1/2 hole in the ceiling you might be able to replace them with the same ones I just did. I removed all the old halogen fixtures (converted to a round LED lamps) and installed all new updated LED fixtures. Lots of fixtures but the much more modern look and so much better lighting was well worth the effort. Actually, even the effort was minimal as the new fixtures are spring loaded and you just remove the old, reattach the wires and slip them into the ceiling where they self-secure.
The original poster who did this to their Country Coach and my add on can be found above in Electrical.
/threaddetails.asp?Category=Electrical&ThreadID=12328
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So, to be clear, drivers air and Prevost OTR air does not work when parked. If you were parked, the engine was off and it was cool, this A/C was being provided by 3 or 4 Cruisair units (roof air would be noisy). My CC Prevost has what CC calls OTR air but it’s just an additional “dash” air that is produced by a 2nd engine A/C compressor that feeds the midship and bedroom area. Works great, but also only works when the engine is running.
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M & G is the best, simple system without all the parts and pieces of an Air Force One.
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I want to add to Bernie’s advice and comments.
First, I think he has hit the nail on the head. But if we as drivers do not want to actually have to be troubled by having to exercise our brain as drivers, we can use the tools Prevost has provided to make our lives simple.
All of our coaches are set for economy. But if we always drive in the economy mode in the transmission then we need to manually do some occasional downshifting to avoid climbing a hill lugging the engine. It is not a big deal to push the down arrow when at the bottom of a hill and then we we are at the top pushing the big D on the transmission pad, but if we do not want to be bothered the transmission pad has a button to push for performance mode.
In normal economy mode the transmission factory program causes early upshifts and delayed downshifts which is exactly what Bernie points out is not such a good thing. Putting the coach in performance mode cures that problem, It will downshift sooner to keep the revs up, and it will upshift later to prevent engine lugging.
Start every trip by pushing the performance mode button and the engine and transmission will work together to keep the engine in the sweet spot and not in a situation where it will lug.
Drive it like you stole it.
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The first thing I would ask is what were you doing when it went off?
When I first got my DDECV I threw a few lights that said Check at next stop and when you recycle the key it’s gone, no code nothing. I found whenever it went off I was working the motor harder than normal.
My transmission was set to manually downshift and if I got in a pull and operated the motor at what Detroit says is the power curve and let it pull down to 1300 RPM where the motor is what I call in a dead zone meaning you are on the throttle and you can’t increase speed and your hanging onto 1300 RPM the motor is dead I would throw a light. Out west driving above 4000 ft all day and the motor sucking air that is thin it happens alot. I’ve got calls from some guys that were trying to operate in the lower RPM range and you can’t do it when you are working the motor hard.
If you want to drive at 1400 to 1600 around most of this country your fine but if you are working the motor you have to get the RPM’s up. I never let my old bus get below 1500 RPM without dropping a gear if I was in hilly or mountain terrain. It never happened again the last 5 years I owned it.
I’ve discussed this at length with Prevost and all the coaches come out setup to operate at it’s best fuel economy and shift parameters are set for this. My current coach I had to change many things in Parameters to get it to operate where I wanted it.
When I sold the DDECV the buyer who now is a good friend sent a I quote Professional driver to pick it up. The buyer called me and was angry, he said the driver thru an engine light going up Parly out of SLC. I told him to tell the driver don’t lug it you have to operate it at 1500 to 1800 RPM or more when you are working it.
Sorry for the long winded post but I’ve had friends call me more than a few times that have had this happen.
Later
bv
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My computer is broke. I have no green buttons.
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Roadmaster video appears to show it tracking.
I am with Jon, if this is as good as Roadmaster touts it to be it can be a real game changer.
I.E. Waiting in line at truck fuel stop, truck next lane finishes while the guy in front of you is off in the store shopping. Back up and go into the next lane. Cant currently do that
Chuck
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Kent, it sounds like the bug has bitten you.
The process of buying a coach is simple. You pay your money and take a chance. What is not so simple is the discipline required to make the purchase a good one.
You have made the first and important step. By defining the specific coach you want you have narrowed the search, and will quickly get to know what is out there in the market, what the price range is, and the pluses and minuses of each conversion.
It suggests you have established your budget but keep in mind when looking at coaches old enough to vote it is almost a given that a fairly serious amount of money will be required to bring all needed maintenance up to date unless you find one with extensive maintenance logs and records that prove continued maintenance.
I bought my three coaches from three different sources. The first from a private individual, the second from a dealer, and the third from Liberty. All were new enough that I did not have to initially be concerned about replacing brake chambers, air bags, valves, tires, batteries, etc. But as a coach ages the list of things that age out grows, especially if they rely on rubber components to work properly.
No matter who is selling the coach you will hear how well maintained the coach has been. Tire dressing and a wax job is a poor substitute for highly detailed records. Do not focus on the seller. They may not all lie, but by omission intentional or accidental you are unlikely to learn what you need to know. Do your homework, demand proof of any claims, and most of all be prepared to be a cynic. In order of risk I would rely on a dealer who is willing to cover repairs for a period of time. No private seller will offer that so while you may get a great deal from a private seller you have the greatest risk.
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Paul,
I’m perplexed to think Prevost would do that. So the a/c compressor would have to be turned and the clutch facing the side of the motor and turbo heat and fan heat plus hoses in that tight space just doesn’t make sense. Did they stack it on top or behind the pulley?
Send a picture if you can please.
Later bv
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I change my chassis batteries every five years regardless of condition. I always use Delco 1150 or 1110. I always use batteries with the same date codes.
It is a given I could likely get many more years of use because a friend always gets my old batteries and I know the last set he got was 5 years ago and he is still using them. I paid just under $100 each for my last 4 so at $400 for the set and 5 year life it is worth replacing them to avoid ever having a battery issue on the road.
My cost for chassis batteries is $80 per year, if I stretch it to 6 years I save $13 or have a cost of $66.66 per year, 7 years is an annual cost of $57 so be driving around with old batteries to save so little is a risk I am never going to take.
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I have a warehouse section the is 60 feet long 16 feet high the only issue is it is down 5 inches lower than the parking lot. There is a little ramp about 10 inches long to enter the building if I drive in or back in do I risk bottoming out the center of the coach on the pavement. I am concerned about clearance. Michael
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Hey, I resent that goat remark, ehehehehe. I found with my Marathons as long as I wired the toad with dedicated lights, 4 wire to the lights and dedicated bulbs, everything worked well. Seems some of the light kits and crazy wiring of diodes and wire splices, things get screwed up. There is a box in your passenger side engine bay that controls the toad lights, I had a problem one time with one of the relays in that box. All of this assumes you have no coach light problems.