Forum Replies Created

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  • June

    Member
    January 24, 2019 at 2:59 pm in reply to: I may have entered into “Flip-Phone-Friday”?

    That’s good advice Jon. I’ve done what I can do (other than moving the bus to phase 1) and after that I’ll take it up for Jeff to take a look. But your advice is well taken.

    Harry

  • June

    Member
    December 9, 2018 at 3:31 pm in reply to: Trouble….24V fed into 12V system by mistake

    Thank you Jon, as always you are at the forefront of offering help and insight. Appreciate it.

    I confirmed that the VIN shows it as a 1998 chassis and after reviewing the receipt, the DDEC computer had to be programmed and replaced not the Allison computer….that one survived I guess…..

    The shop did not report any other issues after the replacement of the ECM.

    As the bus is started, all warning lights come on as they should, once air builds up the Low air lights go off and no other warning lights remain on.

    Still trying to sort out why the generator only runs as long as the start button is kept pressed and if that has anything to do with the temporary higher voltage in the chassis – but I agree it should not….everything else works as it should on the house side.

  • June

    Member
    December 9, 2018 at 9:27 am in reply to: Bendix Dryer

    Is Bendix a good Dryer? I was going to get a Wabco R955205 Saver 1200 it’s quite a bit more money is the Wabco a better unit?

  • June

    Member
    June 22, 2018 at 8:40 pm in reply to: Engine clean up

    2 yrs ago I got lucky and found somebody on ebay selling the kits for half price. See this thread

    https://prevostcommunity.com/forum/threaddetails.asp?Category=Chassis%3E&ThreadID=5673#52357

  • June

    Member
    April 27, 2018 at 9:04 am in reply to: Bay Door Gremlin?

    Turn your dash key on, engine start not needed……let all the systems light up 30 seconds or so. The dash bay button seems to be the master in charge.

    Every thing should work…I know it’s weird.

    AL

  • June

    Member
    March 19, 2018 at 3:20 pm in reply to: Shhhhhhhhhhhh

    Truk, he’s back.

    This guy is my hero in finding air leaks. We don’t spend minutes but hours, days getting to the bottom.

    My recent find was some genius did not make a square cut on a plastic line. The angle affected a tight seal. Bubbles appeared after 10-15 minutes.

    Great job flyu2there….thanks for the post

    AL

  • June

    Member
    March 8, 2018 at 9:47 am in reply to: Surge protector

    Yes I read that part and called them and they said they still recommend before the ATS box so it will pretect the ATS box also, But! I told him my box does have an over/under voltage protection device built, and he said ours does a lot more then over /under. He said genis not usually a problem.

  • June

    Member
    March 3, 2018 at 9:58 am in reply to: AUX Air pressure

    My generator has 2 tire type valve stems on it’s set at 35psi never have to touch it, my belts I put on a new air check valve on regulator and they never get loose now, toilet got rid of put in a Tecma silent plus toilet in and Lonestarace put in plugs in level system so it does not need to have aux air to keep air bags up so aux air does not have to stay up to use coach when it’s parked

  • June

    Member
    February 23, 2018 at 9:45 pm in reply to: Level Low center valve leaking air

    Tip: when removing that E – clip with a screw driver, put a rag over it so that when it flies off it cannot go far and you can spend less time looking for it than it takes to do the procedure in question.

  • June

    Member
    February 23, 2018 at 9:32 pm in reply to: Upgrade Time?

    Anyone wanting a non slide H better jump on this one, it won’t last long.

  • June

    Member
    February 20, 2018 at 9:02 pm in reply to: XLII Buyers Beware

    Repaired XL2 coaches don’t seem to come up for sale often or the sellers are not advertising the fact which would be a big plus in my mind.

    Having Prevost inspect a potential purchase would be great but this may not always be possible. Are there any tips for a reasonably technical person to do a quick pre-inspection? Look for lifted panel corners? Any panels (e.g. on slides) more likely to delaminate than others?

    Gerald

  • June

    Member
    October 24, 2017 at 2:48 pm in reply to: Loss of my coach

    Yikes!

    So sorry to hear about this. Hopefully the settlement will be fair.

  • June

    Member
    September 4, 2017 at 11:24 pm in reply to: IS Otr/bus air a must have or like to have?

    Ron and Jane: I’ve been reading your questions, posts, and responses with great interest. I’m wondering what kind of motorhome experience you’ve had to date? Our 1999 Liberty is the first motorhome we’ve ever owned; over the years I had two or three trips in a friends 33′ Bluebird and then many trips in his 40′ Liberty Prevost, rented Class C’s a couple of times (once two weeks for a trip from Wisc to the West Coast and back and then again for a weekend at Sebring, FL for the 12 hour race, and in about 2012 a late 80’s Prevost Country coach with an 8V92). So our current coach is really 99.99% of our real M/H experience.

    OTR: Was on our “must have short list” (tied with Prevost, Liberty, and private commode in a dead heat). We also have four Cruise-Airs (Elegant Lady, 24 volt coach, with all kinds of technology that Jon Wehrenberg sneers at as unnecessary … but I like it). The way our coach is wired, we cannot run any Cruise-Airs without shore power or the generator running. So to run Cruise-Airs running down the highway we’d have to run the generator. I believe this to a function of the inverters we have on the coach. The Cruise-Airs (like I suspect most roof airs putting out lots of BTUs) have to run on 120volts to have enough power to get those BTUs. Hence to run Cruise-Airs without the generator running (i.e. “off the Detroit Diesel”) you’d have to have enough alternator watts (amps x volts) for the inverters to create enough watts at 120volts to power one or two Cruise-Airs. Since our Liberty is wired to NOT run any Cruise-Airs off the inverters, I suspect our inverters are not large in watts (I think they are only 2500 each) to power a Cruise-Air. I see owners of Prevost coaches with early to mid-2000’s coaches and later talk about running one or maybe two Cruise-Airs without the generator running while going down the road. I suspect those folks have larger inverters (maybe 4,000 watt inverters) that probably allows them to run down the road with a Cruise-Air or two running.

    Considering that you’re looking for a Prevost in the same vintage as ours that will probably have similar sized inverters, this is something you need to keep in mind if the coach doesn’t have OTR. I’m sure if any of my assumptions above are inaccurate, we’ll get quick updates from other Forum members.

    I saw it mentioned a few times … “Prevost dash air”. Do you understand what that is. Eventhough it was mentioned, not sure anyone explained it. I don’t have it, so I won’t try … although I think I know what it is.

    It has taken me a while to completely understand “how” the coach lives and breathes. Why Liberty did some of the things they did (we have coach #405, so ours was not their first rodeo), etc.

    I think that Jon’s post above at 3:41:37 PM does a nice job of laying out the pros and cons of OTR vs non-OTR vs roof airs vs Cruise-Airs, etc. A couple of things in favor of OTR that I’ve discovered and/or have come to realiz in the three years we owned the coach:

    1. By not having to run the generator to cool the coach while driving down the road, we have extended the time between generator oil changes. If we had to run the generator much of the time while going down the road, we’d have to change oil in the generator more often.

    2. As Jon said at 3:41:37 PM (I think), the back of the coach gets really, really heat sinked after more than a few hours of driving when its warm or hot out. Even after stopping the engine, many gallons of coolant and oil/transfluid, the transmission, and the differential are leaching lots and lots of heat into the coach structure and bedroom. So, if I remember, about 30 minutes before stopping after a driving a while, I’ll crank the coach thermostat (there are two, one for driver and one for “the coach”) as cold as it will get and turn that fan on HIGH to try to cool down the back of the coach. The first couple of times we drove into the night when it was warm out, stopped, and immediately went to bed … about an hour later I woke up and had to turn on the generator and run the bedroom Cruise-Air to get things comfortable.

    Li-Ion: I don’t think I’ve commented on this subject before on the PC Forum. I too got awfully excited about Li-Ion technology for all the reasons you’ve mentioned. That was three or four years ago and I realized that the technology as well as the cost/benefit equasion has probably changed quite a bit over that time. I concluded it wasn’t a “plug and play” deal like I might have thought it was and what I was looking for. But once we bought our coach and had Jeff Rowe put in brand new LifeLines from Tom, I realized that I was likely committed to AGM LifeLine technology for at least five years (or until I decide to get new batteries). Then I’ll revisit the subject. I’ve been on this Prevost web site for probably 4 1/2 years, the other one for a year or two before that. So far, to the best of my knowledge no one has converted their existiing Prevost coach to Li-Ion technology. If asked, I would not recommend to anyone to be a pioneer on this subject, unless they really want to be and heavily supported by whoever provides the technology. If I get a call from Liberty telling me that they have a plug and play Li-Ion solution for what I consider to be a reasonable price that they can install 90 miles from house in North Chicago (and its been working on “a number of coaches”) or Jeff Rowe at ETLC tells me that Buddy Brown and three or four other guys have been running his Li-Ion solution for six to nine months (and Jon Wehrenberg’s coach is in his shop right now getting the Li-Ion sex change operation) or Ben Cummings from Parliament announces he has four or five Li-Ion conversations running flawlessly … I’m sticking with what has been working for what … two or three decades. Besides … I’m having enough trouble converting all my lights inside and outside to LEDs, getting my TVs converted to flat panels, and the in-dash stereo/navitation system quit working late last fall. Oh … in another current post I have going I think I might have an invertor that went TU too.

    Running fuel down: How many of you Prevost owners know that if your fuel gets low enough, a red “low fuel” warning light comes on. Handy little device I’m glad Liberty and Prevost put on the coach. Really scares the fecal matter out of my wife when it comes on as she can’t see the fuel level when she’s in the passenger seat … but she sure can see that light! Comes on with little warning when climbing a hill, and the goes out at the top … at least for a while. I checked and the generator still runs when the light comes on.

  • June

    Member
    September 4, 2017 at 7:47 pm in reply to: IS Otr/bus air a must have or like to have?

    Ron & Jane,

    Plenty of pro OTR comments have been sent so i thought I would weigh in here as someone who doesn’t have it and hasn’t missed OTR.

    Not trying to start anything with the PRO OTR crew… just want you to have feedback from both sides.

    I have a 2007 Marathong with 4 -13.5 rooftop ACs and prevost Dash air.

    We have put 100,000 miles in 5 years, traveled to all 49 states really hot really cold and everything in between.

    When we travel we generally run with the Prevost dash air and two roof tops on. Salon and Bed/Bath. With the way my bus is setup we can do this without running the geny with no issues in five years. This keeps things super comfortable for me the driver but everyone else is complaing it’s too cold. But they deal with it.

    Most of the time the salon AC doesn’t run unless I turn it down to like 65 as the Prevost Dash air keeps us good up front.

    Several times this summer I had to use the wipers to keep the condensation off the windshield.

    Good luck with your search!

    Bill

  • June

    Member
    September 4, 2017 at 6:48 pm in reply to: Towing Tahoe

    We tow a 2017 Silverado. I believe the battery disconnect requirement is necessary because the key must be left in the ignition and on the accessory position. This position assures that the steering lock is disengaged but without removing the ground from the battery you could run the battery down with other accessories. You do lose the presets which is a bummer but I think Diane had a solution with a battery powered cigarette adapter.

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