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Shhhhhhhhhhhh
A question about a newly discovered leak at a Norgren valve……
Thanks to my trusty stethoscope I was able to isolate a leak at a Norgren valve to a male air line fitting. Wrenched the fitting just a bit, leak increased, isolated it down to the “push to fit” male fitting between the nylon tubing and the and the actual brass fitting. Appears to be no check or cracks obviously to whatever captures the line has failed. Think this is a disposable fitting, wishing it was not as to replace requires me to reach even farther into the “barbed wire entanglement”. Means a replacement of another fitting and a piece of line as Prevost was none to liberal with the actual lines. So after that diatribe, I noticed the some fittings have been treated with Teflon tape, others with some form of sealant and yet another with RTV. So….what is recommended? The RTV has to go……
BTW, as a senior citizen I recommend the following additions to ones tool box for this kind of repair. 1, carbon fiber arm chaps so ones arms do not look and feel as if they were a career blackberry picker…….nylon zip ties lurk everywhere. 2, illuminated interchangeable surgical glasses and 3, of course a stethoscope.
thanks in advance for the replies….
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22 Replies
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Truk, he’s back.
This guy is my hero in finding air leaks. We don’t spend minutes but hours, days getting to the bottom.
My recent find was some genius did not make a square cut on a plastic line. The angle affected a tight seal. Bubbles appeared after 10-15 minutes.
Great job flyu2there….thanks for the post
AL
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Yep BA, the fly dude is baaaacck.
DOT compression or DOT push in you ole tin driver…..
Also for your toolbox..
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The Boyz at the truck store advised compression fittings…..done! Also was advised to use Teflon rape as a sealant…done! Al, I can see that one could spend an eternity tracking down air leaks the stethoscope is a must unless one has 20/20 or better hearing. I thought about a soapy spray mixture but all the electric stuff made me think twice. As an aside, I was told by former CC enthusiast Gil Johnson that the push on fittings have a lifespan of maybe 15 years………I bought a handful of fittings.
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Never heard of a lifespan for the push in fittings if untouched. I have found that anytime I removed a line from the old push in metal fittings it needed replaced.
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Truk,
Don’t really know about all that save that on close examination of the old fitting it appears to have utilized the services of something resembling an o-ring…rubber of course! Who knows, this may have leaked from day 1 and grew over time, as mentioned this fitting, rather some fitting started whistling loud enough for me to hear out of the clear blue sky………
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After all the above I found I still had a leak, not a big un but a leak…..turns out it’s that damn ISRI seat and it’s plastic fish line and fittings. This is number three for this in the last 5 years. Think it may be wise to go there first when hunting down minor leaks….
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Some…or maybe a couple have installed on- off supply valve to the ISRI air seat. Simply closing the air flow to ISRI seat when parked.
I’ve found the ISRI seat leaking by isolating the air system… finding the hand operated up-down valve the problem.
ISRI has been really cleaver building a complete air seat kit. Only part which has failed on 2 Marathons is on-off valve.
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I will do that Al. Have to admit that’ the fish store plumbing, on a really good day is…crap! Mine is regulated to 90 psi, probably too much for the ISRI plastic, especially after a couple of years! Thanks for the heads up…
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I have all my air circuits on the coach on three manifolds with the exception of slide air. Each circuit is identified and I have “key on / valve open” solenoid valves that shut off air flow to all circuits that have no reason to have air when parked, such as the seat, transmission, air horn, etc.
Other circuits that need air when parked have air to them at all times such as dump valves, pocket doors, etc.
Solenoid valves are cheap.
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I have all my air circuits on the coach on three manifolds with the exception of slide air. Each circuit is identified and I have “key on / valve open” solenoid valves that shut off air flow to all circuits that have no reason to have air when parked, such as the seat, transmission, air horn, etc.
Other circuits that need air when parked have air to them at all times such as dump valves, pocket doors, etc.
Solenoid valves are cheap.
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Mine is regulated to 60 psi John.
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Hey Flyguy, did you leave out a few i’s and t’s from your initial title. I think so, I always say the same thing when my hand slips off a wrench and I bust a knuckle.
Check your typing before posting. I think there is a sentence where you typed a word I know you did not mean to.
I always thought Taxes and Death were the only two events we all face as a consequence of life. Now I know there is a third consequence, “Leaks.” Interpret that any way needed to fit the situation!
May all your landings be wheels down toward the ground.
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Could this be your air leak repair ? Wired to key position, on.
Pictured… SMC 12 volt 1/4 by 1/4 gate valve with mount bracket.
Fly guy, you turn the key and the magic begins.
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Looks like Country Coach already beat me to the solenoid valve game as it appears that they were installed at the factory. One of my two has failed to the open position which I presume that open is fail safe. A new one is coming.
Two valves below a manifold above the DDEC which when closed prevent air from operating the step cover, ISRI……probably more with the outlet pressure regulated to 40 psi. Country Coach set that regulator to 40 psi when I was in Junction City two years ago…..yes they are still in the repair and maintenance business, still open and now owned by Winnebago but operating as a separate company.
Evidently one valve failed and dropped to the open position….never stopped to think why the ISRI was whistling operating on aux air with the engine off.
Now my next thought…purge valve/water separator on aux compressor. Seems it should have one….any thoughts?
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John,
You hit on one of the biggest failures all converters have and that is inadequate water separation of removal from the aux compressor.
Most owners assume the converter has designed a good system and they don’t have any problems but in reality the aux compressor is likely the largest single cause of moisture reaching the accessory system and ultimately causing thousands of dollars worth of damage. If you do not have a means of trapping and releasing moisture from your aux compressor before that pressurized air reaches your accessory tank or accessory system air circuits give serious consideration to installing an in-line water trap that is both reliable and will hold a decent amount of water. I use one of those black Norgren traps such as you might see in the steer compartment and when I am using my aux compressor for about a week I can capture 1/2 to 3/4 of that cup in water in humidity such as in Florida.
There is no secret to installing one. Have about 15 feet of air line between the aux compressor and the trap to allow the water vapor in the hot compressed air to condense, maybe adding a short copper loop if you do not have that much run, and you are good to go. If you want to see it work go where it is humid and run your aux compressor for a few days and you will be amazed at how much moisture you have collected and that was previously being fed into your aux system.
You do need to drain your coach air tanks in sequence starting with the wet tank just to make sure you have no moisture and the protection and check valves are working as intended.
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