John
Forum Replies Created
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Hi Les,
The one I bought for FL is a 3219 Skyjack. It is 32″ wide and goes to 19′. It fits thru a 3-0 door and is battery operated. It was 2,000 plus 300 delivery. It is older, but works fine for my needs. On the battery note, Skyjack and Genie both suggest not using agm batteries. Sunbelt tried them to reduce maintenance, the test was a failure. One thing that does help a bunch is using water miser caps on the batteries.
The lift comes in handy a lot. It does make you real popular with the neighbors as well, lol…
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Al, same bus…was on Cranky Ape maybe 4 yrs ago. Someone in Fl bought it and it’s been for sale on RV Online forever. Geo.
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If you use the TruckLite lights be sure and order extra gaskets for each light.
The curve in the front and rear caps does not allow the light housing to completly seal so you either need to put extra gaskets on them or silicone around the top and sides of each light.
Put them on my 99 CC and they were great.
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If it is like most conversions the two alternators do not work together, but are for two separate systems.
If a coach has used the 50DN as a 12 volt alternator then it is being used exclusively for the house circuits and a smaller, lower output 24V alternator is used for the chassis electrical circuits.
Generally speaking if a coach does not have OTR its electrical demands are less so the converter dedicates the 50DN to the greater loads of the 12 volt house.
The 24V alternator usually has an internal voltage regulator. It still requires the use of an equalizer on the chassis battery circuits,
Most converters got away from 12V house systems, especially if an A/C unit was run off an inverter. The reason was capacity because on a 12V system a roof air or Cruisair would typically draw 130 amps which was about 1/2 the 50DN output, and by going to 24V the draw was down to 65 amps.
I should not have assumed in my first response the 50DN was being used for the house or that it was 24V because I knew some converters did as described above.
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Loc,
I have a 2007 Marathon H with two Valid slides. We have had the coach 6 plus years now… put over 100k on it been to all 49 states on an extended trip with the family where everything got pushed to the limit. Been to Colorado on 3 ski trips -20 and not some much as a lick of trouble with the valid slides. If that all changes tomorrow… I’m blaming you! 🙂
Not sure which Marathon shop I was at but I do recall a tech telling be the valid slides are less problematic than Prevost… but that is just one guys opinion I guess and I don’t want to start any trouble. But for my two cents worth I think your fine with a valid slide…
Good luck on the search
Bill
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One thing that would help in the future is to specify the device by its model number and manufacturer.
While our conversions are all different they also often use the same devices used by other converters. The key is if the converter has done something proprietary that makes the device unique as far as the application. A good example is Liberty has their own generator auto-start device and while the Liberty suspension is mostly identical to the Prevost level low, Liberty has added a feature for auto-leveling and modified the stock Prevost level low.
I am sure other converters have done a lot of systems in non-standard ways also, but by identifying the system device it does help steer the conversation so there may not be total silence.
Another thing I do almost all the time is go to a manufacturer’s web site and pull up their operator’s, service or installation manuals to get an understanding of what might be happening.
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Watching. I topped off (let the handle shut off, put it back on the pump) yesterday about 30 miles from home. Coach will sit until Friday when we leave on another trip. We don’t have a forecast of temps in the 100’s … but I’m concerned about expansion of 208 gallons of Love’s finest. I’m sure the fuel in the underground tanks was 52 degrees or even possibly less.
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Fred, just called and changed my name to yours. Your all set but I would call to make sure they did what they agreed to. Have a great time, sorry we have to ,miss it this year! Happy New Year, Bob & Sue Grote
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I’m guessing you would suggest emtpying the holding tank and water tanks? My old plastic RV’ s had jacks so I deployed jacks taking some weight of the tires, but it always sat outside. My Prevost is inside out of the sun and rain. Fuel tank is full. Oh it’s plugged into a 50 amp to keep everything charged.
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Per, your logic is on the right track, but keep in mind where you are driving and how you drive comes into play.
I used my cruise control almost 100% of the time. One coach with Jakes, two with retarder.
On all three coaches the Jake or retarder main switch could be on and unless in the case of the retarder I was in any other than the 0 stalk position, the retarder would not engage when no gas was applied. On the jake equipped coach it was the same except the cruise disabled the Jake. If I started accelerating down a hill on the jake equipped coach I had to turn off the cruise control to engage the jake. If however as you describe if the cruise control does not disengage the jake every time the cruise control was coasting, the jake would engage. That is a case of picking your poison. Do you want to turn on the jake manually every time the coach picks up excessive speed, or do you want to kick off the cruise to engage the jake if the cruise disables it.
Because of the safety, I would want the jake to engage only when cruise is disengaged, such as if I have to hit the brakes while in cruise, I want the jake already on it highest setting.
If I am in hilly country I leave my retarder stalk in the #2 position to keep the speeds closer to the set point or I manually engage it if a downhill is in my path. No matter what we have we have some responsibility for manually controlling the coach.
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What I meant to say…………I’ll take the coach to ISC and let those guys do the inverter.
Talked to TJ…er…..PJ, this am……seems to know his stuff………..I did mention PC also.
Indiana is where I’ll have my general maintenance done…..oil/ lube/ …….etc……
They also do prevost chassis stuff………….koni shocks first……….
Thanks to all for the info………Ol’Ben
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My peeve is the constant Good Sam insurance and RV service plan solicitations originating from Camping World which have my name and address printed all over them on strangely over-sized paper that does not easily fit my shredder. I don’t claim to understand marketing, but I’m pretty sure you can’t annoy customers into buying your product. When I run the world, my first acts will be to outlaw junk mail that can’t be shredded without opening it and stickers that damage the product while being removed. There are other offenders, but Camping World specializes in both.
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I think they do make repair kits but I just replaced my two pumps. A lot easier.
Here is where I got them.
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Here is a link to vehicle LED bulb replacement. They have the complete kit for H11 9004, 9005 and 9007. They have any and all replacements for the coach. Their ‘house’ lights are on another page. Plus rope lights in several shades of white and color and/or color changing.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/
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Tom said:
“PS – Just tell them 8 years in the future, they don’t know a 92 from a 2002.”
That is SO true and that’s why I’m so glad we went with a Prevost. Timeless!
Mark