Greg
Forum Replies Created
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That sound reasonable
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That is only half of the concern.
Keeping the environment where the inverters are located cool is important, but of greater importance is to make sure the internal inverter fans are working also.
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I, too, would like to see how the seasoned Prevost owners log their maintenance records (assuming….folders, three-ring binders, etc).
Since we bought new, I want to keep everything in order and don’t want to miss any services.
Mark
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For those considering attending the Fall session, I highly recommend. We have had a motor home since 1996. Over that span of nineteen years I became very comfortable with my working knowledge of our five Monacos. We purchased our first Prevost in March of last year going into it with confidence that it was just another transition. Although not overwhelmed nor intimidated, I quickly realized I was definitely in the Big Leagues. In the past 15 months we have become more comfortable with our Prevost knowledge. Over the three days and three nights in Vonore the knowledge shared by Jon, Tom, Jeff and all those present was priceliess. The real life experiences definitely added a dimension of reality to the content of each session.
The only thing better than the classroom was meeting and visiting with members of our Community. Its a must see. Cli and I give it Four Thumbs Up! Oh! I almost forgot, Jon showed us new Liberty owners how the holding tank emits that rose pedal aroma.
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When you replaced it did you get 24 volt? Also which breaker (amp wise ) is tripped? Might have parts for you> Free you pay shipping. Might have complete condenser fan assembly. Heavy sucker but same deal. Will ck tomorrow to see if it is still on shelf. Like Jon said check brushes. Simple fix and considered maintance item. Bob
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I have a XL40 and it will puke if filled fast. I lean and pump the last bit by hand now.
I think the puking has to do with the fuel tube enters the tank well below the top of the tank and the air escape tube is too small to handed the amount of air leaving the tank compared to the entering fuel volume. Therefore pressure is built up in that space above the fuel entery level of the tank and it pushes fuel out to equalize the pressure. I wonder if that air hose has some restriction on it that is gummed up or such.
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True Jon but it should pull itself out of a hole it front of fuel island unless it’s a mighty deep hole and not sitting on chassis/frame. Made a boo boo out here at the ranchito and almost sunk mine pulling my F150 and that thing was spinning and throwing mud out the back. never let off cause didn’t want to have to pull it out with the dozer. Note to self,,, Don’t get off the beaten path when it’s raining.
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Mine would pull it if chassis wasn’t bottomed out and why does it take off in 2nd gear? Can you put it in 1st and is that what you were trying to get out of the dip with? Never tried taking off in 2nd and just leave mine in D. Let it shift itself. You said yours shifts harsh. My 755CR shifts pretty solid but doesn’t bang or jerk.
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I have when it was at the old place in Lyndhurst.
I have parked at an outlet mall in Secaucus overnight.
I haven’t been in that area in 15 years so I am not even sure those parking opportuities even exist.
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Rick and Denise: What did you put behind the new flat screen TV?
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Terry,
I think we were mislead in your original post. Your most recent post seems to indicate the leak is associated with the curved side windows, and according to the post you suggest it is under the awning.
I think you are making a mistake if you apply a film or seal at the top of the windows near or over the rubber gaskets. It is probable your leak has nothing to do with the windows, but could be coming from a failed caulking joint at the awning where it attaches to the coach, around the screw fasteners attaching the awning to the coach, or even at one of the roof penetrations or roof seams.
Leaks, especially high leaks, are sometimes difficult to locate. To do it the proper way the coach should be pressurized and the exterior in the presumed area of the leaks should be sprayed with soapy water. The leak will show as bubbles.
Leaks may be seen in the coach quite a distance from the point of entry because sometimes water enters the coach, travels horizontally along a structural member, and then shows up inside. Apart from sealing everything the only true way to identify water entry points is to pressurize the coach interior using the over the road air with the outside air baffle open or removed, or by taping a large blower to the open side window.
If it turns out the leak is associated with the window gasket using film as an overlay is a crude solution and either a new gasket or a good application of a gasket sealer such as Sikaflex is the correct solution
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Daine if it is fed from a valve on coach it will be the R 12 valve it will need to be plugged
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Without going out to the bus, if they’re Girards it’s 120v, so there’s a breaker somewhere, I just don’t remember without looking.
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Me too, spam is great. They even have a spam lite for old people.
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Look for it under FURNAS instead of Furmax. Also I believe that Hubbell may have taken over production, so you may also look at Hubbell, but the FURNAS with the Furmax number should give you some results.
3F