[glen]

Xtreme Paint and Graphics uses automotive “D” Seal to reinstall the windows removed for full paint jobs. D seal is a air and water tight seal that does not attract dirt as does butyl tape.

Hope this helps.

[Larry & Diane]

THANKS FOR THE INFO I’M SEEING WATER DAMAGE BEGIN

[Rudy]

Terry,

if the windshield rubber gasket is in good shape you should not require and type of sealant. The rubber welting or strip that is forced into the groove after the glass has been installed applies adequate pressure between the glass and the gasket to make a tight seal. If you leak, before you seal the glass to the gasket try to locate the entry point. It might not be at the gasket at all but might be where the fiberglass cap attaches to the steel above the windows. Start at the bottom with a water flow from a hose and work you way up and around the gasket. If you just flood the entire front of the coach you don’t know the origin, just that there is a leak.

Please add a signature line as almost everyone has done. Answers to your questions can be more accurate. Additionally, the use of all caps is considered “shouting” and some see that as rude.

[Fred F.]

Terry,

While I do not see all CAPS as rude behaviour, I do find it really hard to read especially if you are writing several paragraphs. I remember someone on another forum wrote a long message that I have no idea what he wanted as I got bogged down in the first paragraph and just moved on to the easier to read threads.

There are NO bad questions, so please continue to ask away and please share an answer when you feel you have one. All the best.

[Archived]

this is not a windshield problem curved glass on sides pass side under awning very bad i can’t get in til july 20 so have an idea the wrap film they use to place logo and ads i’m going to see if i can get a 1 ft wide strip 10 ft long than just peel and stick overjust under awningdown on window itself for the length of the 3 windows temp fix i hope want to use this bus summer is short in cheese head land TAG1

[Greg]

Terry,

I think we were mislead in your original post. Your most recent post seems to indicate the leak is associated with the curved side windows, and according to the post you suggest it is under the awning.

I think you are making a mistake if you apply a film or seal at the top of the windows near or over the rubber gaskets. It is probable your leak has nothing to do with the windows, but could be coming from a failed caulking joint at the awning where it attaches to the coach, around the screw fasteners attaching the awning to the coach, or even at one of the roof penetrations or roof seams.

Leaks, especially high leaks, are sometimes difficult to locate. To do it the proper way the coach should be pressurized and the exterior in the presumed area of the leaks should be sprayed with soapy water. The leak will show as bubbles.

Leaks may be seen in the coach quite a distance from the point of entry because sometimes water enters the coach, travels horizontally along a structural member, and then shows up inside. Apart from sealing everything the only true way to identify water entry points is to pressurize the coach interior using the over the road air with the outside air baffle open or removed, or by taping a large blower to the open side window.

If it turns out the leak is associated with the window gasket using film as an overlay is a crude solution and either a new gasket or a good application of a gasket sealer such as Sikaflex is the correct solution

[Larry & Diane]

Jon wrote: “To do it the proper way the coach should be pressurized ”

How do you pressurize the coach?

[Peter]

Camping world can do it for you. Last time I saw it cost $99.

[Archived]

Dick, yours is real easy….you have bus air. Have Jeff show you in July. Geo.

[Gary]

Cory, do you ever sleep, 3:26 am?

[Archived]

Tom, he is the night watchman for the PC site. Anyone needing help late at night, he will spot it and call you to finish the job.

[Gary]

Dick, with OTR pressurizing the coach is very easy.

On the evaporator side of the system there is an air inlet that has a baffle or cover that blocks outside air from entering the system. As our coaches are set up the OTR system recirculates air and does not introduce outside air. Remove the cover or open the baffle so outside air is being drawn in.

Then start the coach and go to fast idle with the OTR system on. It brings in so much outside air that it will be difficult to close the door. The inside pressure will be great enough so you can squirt a soapy water solution where you believe leaks are, and if there is a leak at that location you will see a lot of bubbles.

If you do not have OTR you have to have a high volume blower taped to an open window, a technique used by Prevost and others in lieu of using the OTR system.

[Archived]

Thanks Jon. That makes sense.

Of course we have OTR.

[Joe]

Jon,

Would this also be a good/easy method to check for de-lam issues if you
have a XL of the de-lam years?

Fred

[Archived]

Using inside air pressure is just one of the techniques used to determin if there is a delamination issue, but that is mostly used to find leaks after the repairs have been done in problem areas such as around or on slides.

Delam is most often determined by tapping the skin or pushing it to check for looseness.