Glenn
Forum Replies Created
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Peter is anal. That is not an insult but is the best description of someone who will go to extraordinary lengths to be as reliable as possible. He is one of few who runs his coach a lot for his business and he has to be ready to go to a schedule. He not only needs reliability, he needs to understand his coach fully because he may be the one required to diagnose and repair the coach.
But for the casual motor home user there is a risk versus reward calculation each of us must make regarding how far we want to go in making our coaches reliable. And since we are all different what might be important to me might be something someone else can ignore.
Part of inspecting and buying a coach however is for the buyer to understand what he is dealing with. An inspection is the first step and then weighing the advice, information, and costs is what we all do, knowing that whether we go all out to make repairs, or we let things go until needed is an individual choice.
I opt to do as much preventive maintenance as possible because I do my own work, it is a hobby, and I feel I would rather throw away good parts (valves, air bags, brake chambers, tires, batteries, etc.) than to have a failure disrupt a trip. Others who are as correct in their thinking as I am may choose to wait until components give a sign they need to be replaced.
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Ronald,
Be up early, eggs benedict on Monday mornings…
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Bill, in my 99 it works like this.
Put your thermostat in the furnace positions, mine has two zones, front dash and under the kitchen cabinets and zone 3 is the bedroom heat exchanger. There is no zone two. Also my system is a Webasto. My thermostats is overhead as you come in the entrance door.
Once you put the thermostat in the furnance position, and set the temp setting high enough push the button that says interior heat exchangers and you should hear the fans in the coach come on and the burner fire off. I see you said you have a huricane, I don’t know exactly know what that is.
I (think) in my coach the central heat button has no effect unless the Webasto is on. This does allow hot water to circulate through out the bays that are plumbed for that function.
I saw in one of the replys to your post that some of the buttons will change colors on their own indicating certain conditions in the bays. I have never seen any of mine do this unless my coach has never met the needed conditions to make the switches function as stated.
Keep in mind my coach is a 99 and may be totaly different from yours. Hope some of this applies to your coach.
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The H3-40 is going to be a 90-93 or 4. It was just about then that Prevost brought out the H3-41 to accomodate the S60 engine and world trans. None of the H3-41s were built as VIP versions. So this is indeed a rare beauty.
I think it is sweet to go out to my barn and see one every day. We like it a lot.
Ask me about our new entertainment center and interior mods. Hint: I have sourced new Vitricor and Corian to match the interior AND I have done away with the Jenn-Air cooktop in the lower entertainment center. Can you say induction?
BTW, if anyone needs help fixing or replacing their vintage VDO tach or speedo, I have found a repair shop
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Hi Jon and thanks for the reply. I failed to make my descriptoin clear. These are not take offs or used. They are brand new tires that are 5 years old. They were stored inside. There is not a single morsal of wear, cracking or even dust on them. They are perfect and have the tits on the tread. They were never installed.
I called Prevost and they said these size (12R) have a different weight rating. I can’t afford all 6 of them anyway. I can’t afford new tires, it’s just not an option at present so it’s eitehr spend $150 each on used tires or $300 each on these new ones. My tags are in bad / unsafe condition. I belive I should put 2 of these 12R’s on the tags and then get the 315 80R’s for the other’s as I can afford them. I don’t see a problem with the slightly narrower tire with lower weight rating on the tags and the Prevost tech I spoke to didn’t seem to think I would go flying of the road into the ditch as a result but I always value running it up the old forum flag pole before hand. If anyone had used tires or was about to replace their tires I would be thrilled to get them because even the $600 for the two 12R’s is a stretch for me right now. I’m in Tampa.
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A good example of the cost of these obssolete items was the CC Glass Dash I use to have.
Run and operated on a computer running windows 3.1 and a display unit that is no longer available.
My option and only option, a $10,0000 dollar SilverLeaf replacement which is first class and really works well.
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When the starter is spinning the generator to start it the current draw is high so measuring voltage at the fuel pump when the generator is trying to start is going to show a voltage drop.
What I do not know however is what is normal for a generator that does not have any issues.
There have been times when I have dealt with starting issues and found I was not the only one that has had a bad fuel pump on a 20KW Kohler. I have had to replace the pump so for me to believe your second pump might be bad is not a stretch. Obviously you need to be delivering fuel for the generator to start so after changing filters or having a slow to start generator I have applied 12V to the fuel pump and listened to the sound change until it was obvious the pump was pushing fuel under pressure. That way I knew I had fuel at the injectors. The generator would then start promptly.
The fact the generator had quit after running seems to me to be a clue about the fuel pump. I would crack a fitting and operate the pump to verify it is pumping. I agree with Jack and Buddy. If you suspect the pump, make sure you have ample fuel, but temorarily stick any electric fuel pump in line to see if the generator will run OK. Kohler seems proud of their pumps and they are expensive, but you can get a cheap but functional pump at NAPA for very little money.
I would not try all this without making sure the generator start battery is good. Give it a full charge.
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Do you have any dimmers on the lights that cause this situation?
Generally speaking, interference with televisions is a ground issue with the coax outer ground and a dimmer or high ripple from battery chargers under a high current charge to low or bad batteries.
I would turn all dimmers to maximum intensity, and see what happens. If you turn some lights off, does the simptom improve at all? Also, check the coax connection to the television, a distribution switchbox, VCR, sat receiver, etc, to make sure the outer metal surfaces of connections are not in contact with foil insulation or the bus frame.
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I think if you spend some time looking closely at a coach you can tell if there is a major issue or not. I would say that it seems only some had big enough problems to require rivet repair, according to Prevost Jax, they see that alot on 2006-2008, on my 2001 shell, hardly ever.
Since they do not rivet in the middle and only the edges, I assume Prevost is most worried about that area and water getting in from the edges.
After discussing this with Rick May at Parliament we agreed that in really minor cases just work sealant in along the edges. It looks like Prevost did not use enough possibly, but it is easy to see how you can make sure the edges stay completely tight and water proof.
I had mine inspected this year when I bought it and Prevost said it was fine, but I will still seal up the edges and watch it closely as it is pretty straight forward.
The whole delam thing is way overblown imo.
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Bad thing about NADA, is I am trying to get our coach value amended, since ours is the only conversion listed in NADA, and grossly undervalued. Turns out from my correspondence with NADA, Beaver sent NADA a value back in 1990 and 1991. The Nada contact wrote me this morning, saying they are going to need sales info on Beaver Coaches to make any adjustment, and it will take time. Bummer.
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Any suggestion on a specific brand/model of battery tester? Thanks!
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Spent a couple of hours this afternoon with Rod and Nancy today touring their beautiful coach! As many of you likely already know, they are really great peope and were so nice to allow Sandy and I into their home! THANK YOU AGAIN Rod & Nancy!
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Tom,
I’m running Windows 7 Home Premium on my laptop (a 4 year old Toshiba), My tablet is a Samsung model SM-T310 with the last update being 8/22/14 and my phone is a Samsung Galaxy S4 with current update. I can’t get pixs to load from any of them. I have recently uploaded photos to this web site from all 3 devices.
For what it’s worth at approximately 2pm central time I was successful loading a pic from my tablet. I canceled that post because at the time it was just a test. I imediately got on the lap top and tried to upload and it failed. Same thing, clicking the OK after seeing the preview- nothing happens. Went back to the tablet and tried it again- failed. Tried again on laptop, same issue.
All 3 devices have been shut down and rebooted.
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Tom, no the LEDs will be fine. Infact I followed the link you posted and bought the ones from eBay, am liking those better than the ones I tried before.
Anyways, I spoke with the people who built these for Marathon, very nice folks and really helpful, may have been a fluke or I shorted something but looks like node is mostly working just a small burnt part or something on board they can repair if I send it in.
They also stock new replacement parts and I think can also program stuff for you if you should ever need. I guess I cant just swap nodes as it will need to be programmed. They built all this stuff exclusivley for Marathon, so very knowledgable about it all.
Anyways, go ahead and change your lights, not going to affect techlink or the techlon nodes or anything.
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Darrell,
That’s easy, there’s a homing beacon on a house up on a big hill near that exit tuned to your fire alarm frequency with an old guy wearing head phones with one ear listening to the Lennon Sisters and the other your bus mojo and he pushes a transmit button on his flux capacitor. Now you know…..